adamlewis

Whats the deal on this?

http://www.fc3s.org/6-ports.html

Whats the advantages of doing it? Why should you do it? Is there anything you cant do unless yo do this?

Agent_D

iTrader: (2)

that just allows you to be able to remove all the emissions and gut cats and still use the 6 port actuators, i prefer fulley removing them, doesnt take away too much of the low end and gives a tad more high end, wiring them open is another alternative.

adamlewis

So you suggest just removing those ports? If you remove them can you pass emissions?

Whats the benefits of removing the airpump? What does it do?

And whats the ACV ( maybe it was AVC I cant remember )? What does removing it do?

adamlewis

ttt

HAILERS

Can I suggest using the *search engine* on this site for questions about acv, tps, ecu etc? You will find plenty of posts about these things and not have to wait for someone to answer. Also get a large varitey of angles on these subjects. The Haynes manuals can be had at the auto store for just a couple of bucks and the factory manual can be downloaded on the net. That site I have lost track of right now, but its out there somewhere.

adamlewis

Yeah..You could suggest it..Or in the same amount of time it took you to write that post, you could have told me what it does. I guess that part is up to you. I dont have a problem waiting. Im a very patient person.

It really upsets me when all people do is say "Do a search". I get that on the Miata forum all the time and all it does is **** me off. You could have at least told me what the ACV is.

Keith

ACV - the Air Control Valve, directs air pumped by the Air Pump to one or more of 3 places: the exhaust ports, the Catalytic Converter, or the Intake Manifold. If it doesn't work, you fail emissions. If you remove the ACV for performance reasons, you don't need the air pump. Oh yeah, on 89+ cars the air pump also actuates ports 5-6.

The 6-port system is designed to increase low-end torque. Removing the valves reduces torque, but increases horsepower (lower restriction in air intake).

Hope this helps.

Irv, Keith's dad

adamlewis

Thank you, thank you, thank you.

Two more questions though. So is it possible, and emissions safe, to just take out the 5th and 6th ports and not mess with the air pump or ACV?

and

How hard is it to remove/install the air pump?

Suparslinc

I feel pretty strongly that you should not remove the auxilary ports.
I had my entire intake apart this spring to fix them, I almost decided to take the damn things out; but if you have it apart and clean it up the system will work the way its supposed to.
I've heard alot of stories on this forum about people who experienced problems with idle and such after removing the aux. ports, even though it should'nt be related to idle...Most people tend to agree that, if the system is working as it should, which it will if you clean the crud up, you will gain nothing up top by removing the ports, and will lose a noticable amount of low RPM torque. And these things are hurtin' for torque as it is.

RobH

Well Hello,

This is Rob Hammond...If you recall I am the one who put that little article together. If you read the intro, it should have clearly explained why I designed it, in regards to its purpose. A re-read may be in order.

Currently, the system has stopped working ;-) I havent even looked into it, but i assume it is RPM switch related, as the pump still works AFAIK. Maybe the relay, well have to see soon.

Just an FYI, I have heard of this Really Neat activation method consisting of vacuum controlled 6 port actuators. Simply uses the engine vacuum and a solenoid [uses the secondary injector ground to activate] to open them without an airpump at all. Still keeps low end torque [*I* value it around town] and satisfies my criteria. Hella cheap too.

If you have any questions, I am familiar with the 6 ports and related items...

adamlewis

Ack...My head hurts

Sorry for being so stupid But I just want to make sure that youre saying if I take the intake apart and just clean it all, they should work just fine? How do I know if theyre working? How do I know if theyre not working?

adamlewis

I was gonna post something but then I saw you have AIM. Mind if I just talk to you on there?

Suparslinc

I haven't read that article. The text makes my eyes hurt.
I have to admit that I have also heard electronic six-port actuation has its advantages; if you are willing to pay for it.
So long as your car has enough pressure/exhaust backpressure to activate the actuators, and the linkage is not gummed up, IT WILL WORK AND WORK BETTER THAN JUST REMOVING THE PIECES.
The only thing is, this is not for your typical "shade-tree" mechanic. I would ahve never got my car back together without my dad who is an excellent mechanic. I doubt the electronic system is for novices either judging by the lenght of that write-up.

I'd love to go into this some more; but like I said I'm tired.

Adam, if you have any questions about cleaning your aux. ports just PM me. I'd be glad to share what I know.

HAILERS

If you want to see if they work, get a three foot long piece of vaccum hose and connect it to the pipe that feeds the aux ports, and either blow hard into the hose or use low presssure shop air to blow into the hose. The actuators should retract if you have a 86-88 model. Kinda missed the model you have in the post.If you have a 86-88 model and want to know if they work on the street, put some high temp grease on the actuator shafts and go for a ride. You get the rest. If you have a spare engine take the manifold with the actuators off and put it in the front seat. Run a vac hose to a tee to the feed for the actuators and go for a ride. The actuators will, if you have enough back pressure, and have a 86-88, retract when you hit somewhere around 3600rpm and be fully open at 5000.Or if your cats are gutted you can get a 3/16 plastic barbed pipe and insert it into the one inch hose b/t the airpump and acv, attach a vac hose to the other end of the barbed pipe and run it to the pipe for the aux ports. Remove the temp sw connectors on the radiator, and they will activate right around 3800. Or I have two more methods laying around to make them work.And ROB HAMMOND, that was a first rate way of making them work. Have you ever thought of using the signal to the relief solenoid valve to trigger one of your projects? I think its around 3500 or so that there is a 12v sig to the relief solenoid.

wogboy_9000

Firstly, sorry for the thread resurrection of the century.
HAILERS, I've noticed that in this post and another post you mention the relief solenoid activating at 3800rpm, but at times is unreliable.

If emissions are removed, would the relief solenoid still activate (I'm leaning toward yes)?
And then making the ports activate would be as simple as connecting a small compressor (under 10psi) to the relief solenoid connector, then connecting a vacuum line to the 6 port actuators?

Thanks.

HAILERS

I wouldn't use the signal to the Relief solenoid. It comes and goes at times other than the 3800rpms, so I'd forget about using it.

On the only n/a I own now, I just use a line off the airpump outlet hose, to a solenoid. The solenoid was triggered by a Summit Racing rpm switch but now is triggered by a RTEK2.0 for n/a's.

There are other ways of operating them like a fish bowl whatever macallit. I've no interest in that.

wogboy_9000

thanks HAILERS, I tested a couple of the solenoids this morning, including the relief which appeared to be constantly on in my car, so it seems to be a bad option!