i was concerned that my 5th and 6th ports were not working so i decided to check them with grease on the actuators. it turns out they are both stuck and wont open up. i need some help on how to clean them so they work. hopefully there are plenty of people out there who have done this.

 

My 5th and 6th port soleniod was the problem for me. The solenoid wasn't working, and the proper voltage wasn't being aquired so the soleniod wasn't sending the signal to the actuators for the 5th and 6th to open up. Since it wasn't grounded right, I put a ground wire in and it worked. If I'm not mistaken, it be sending 5psi to the actuators to be able for them to open up. A 10 cent ground wire gave me alot of power. Hope that helps, just check the wiring.

 

Mazda calls the auxillary ports.
To test them, run a tube to the actuator, T in a pressure gauge and blow into the tube to check at what pressure they open.
(A cheap boost gauge will do.)
Then reconnect the pressure tube & T in a long tube to inside the cabin, with the gauge on the end, and do a test drive to see when they open.
This also works for the VDI.

When they stick, it's usually the shaft & not the internal sleeves.
Just work in some penetrating oil where the shaft goes into the LIM.

 

im selling 2 good actuators off an 86 n/a

 

does anybody know where the 5th and 6th port solenoid is and where that ground wire is? a picture would be ideal but any info would help

 

On the solenoid rack - top row - front - with a brown dot.
It gets 12v from the main relay when the engine is on.
The ECU completes the ground at ~3800 RPM only under load
That's why you have to go for a drive to test them.

Check out the PDF's of the factory manual at the link in my sig.
It's in the "fuel & emmissions section".

 

Based on your name, you have an 87. That's a series 4, which is driven by exhaust backpressure.

Does your actuator setup look like this?



If so, you may be able to remove and free them up, but make sure you clean all the gasket off. It's usually a pain in the rear to clean these things, and involves removing the lower intake manifold if they're really stuck.

-=Russ=-

 

that is what mine look like. i cleaned the actuators and they work fine. what i did notice is that the valve that the actuator connects to does not move like it should. from that picture i see that it's suppose to move in a counterclockwise motion and it doesn't . they move a little bit but hardly nothin. how can i fix that problem? any advice would help.

 

You have the same problem I did with mne, mine were so rusted (the actual ROD not on the actuator) that one broke off so we just removed the 5th/6th sleeves all together so now mine's a constant 6 port.

 

that's a good idea. give me more details on how to remove those sleeves. i think i would consider doin that

 

what do you mean? that only under load do the 5th and 6th port actuators open up? um... no. cus i can ipoen em up in neutral. i know, ive done it before.

 

aren't u suppose to be able to freely move that valve when the engine is off?

 

There's mixed information here. Some people started posting S5 info, which is a totally different system.

If you can't turn the rods, you'll need to pull the lower intake manifold to get them freed up and/or removed. Don't remove them, it makes a big difference in low end torque. Fix them.

-=Russ=-

 

is there a way to free them up without taking the manifold off? or is that the only way?

 

Maybe its just me, but do you actually have the ***** to not only give give advice, but show how well maintained YOUR engine is? Syonyk, your a very intelligent person, I've often read your posts, but dude, more respect will come your way with a little engine maintenance. Dude, my car's engine bay looks like the F-117A stealth compared to that crap. And Im 6 months rotary born.

PEACE THE DOG

 

Uhh yeah but the power gained up high is much better than the needed low end torque, think about, when you're racing, do you stay in the high rpm range more or the low rpm range more...D'OH!

Daily Driven mine for the past 200 miles and the difference is nill in my opinion...I just took on...

 

Bringing this back, the LIM gasket on the S5 body is steel? Do I need to replace that gasket?

 

Not unless it is damaged.

 

i have a racing beat exhaust specifically for 86-92 rx7s. the piece that eliminates cats has no place to mount the split air tube. this is my first rotary and just did a motor swap and put this exhuast on. runs great and has plenty of power until i go to fifth gear. i can have it floored and it slowly slows down. thought it was a tranny issue but someone said its from the 5th and 6th ports not working. is there an easy fix? ive searched and alot of people have crazy ideas. if not i may end up just slapping the old exhaust back on(really dont want to).

 

first check to see if you can move them by hand.

 

Look up the airpump activation for your 5th/6th ports.

But that is certainly NOT the problem with your car slowing down in 5th gear...

How's your compression? Timing? Secondary fuel injectors known good?