Why should i do that 5th & 6th port thing, what does it do and how do i do it. I can handle the job and have seen the instructions before but i can't find them anywhere anymore. Please help me.

 

You shouldn't do it.
The wiring them open with zipties mod is only if your 6 ports are working, from removal of the air pump in S5 cars or addition of free flowing exhaust in S$ cars.
The car will run the best with the system working.
Sean Cathcart

 

Mine aren't working and I managed to open it up by working it open and closed but I put some grease and they weren't working. So would the best thing to do be just removing the sleeves?? Please help


kleach

 

What Sean said...

 

No, the best thing would be to get them working.
Sean

 

So what do you think might be wrong with them??

 

so wait a minute i wired open my 5th and sixth ports on my s4, when put my headers and exhaust on (i bought a new cat which didn't have the nipple to connect in to the air pump) so i figured the system wouldn't work...i did this for no reason? should i "unwire" them?

 

Same subject diff question...

I cant get my hand /face near the front most port and its actuator to tell if its working i cant even get my hand into there to mess with it

am i gona have to take off the air pump or some of the piping? or is there some other way to see if its opening

 

No, your will not work due to your exhaust. It would be best for you to find another way to open them, such as hooking them up to an airpump.
Check out FC3s.org for a few options you have.
Sean Cathcart

 

To be honest, I am having trouble imagining why it would a prob. I never had a problem on my old 88NA, or on felow members' cars.
Know anyone with tiny hands?
Feel free to take off the air intake pipe if that'll help, or the air pump. They're both pretty easy to get off and put back on.
Sean Cathcart

 

thanks

 

ok heres another question, what if i just plug the tube that went to the cat?....the air pump would then fill the line with air making the 2 psi backpressure that is needed to open the 5th and 6th ports. would this work or should i just stop wasting my time?

 

Dontl block the air tube, itll burn out out your air pump bearings once the line is pressurized.

Dont disable the 5/6 ports.
Clean them (down to the aluminum)
After that run STP fuel treatment at each oil change.

you must remoave and clean the intake system, and have the fuel injectors flowed and cleaned while your in there.

Order all new gaskets from the bok to the upper intake and get new back and acv gaskets too.
clean all gasket surfaces to the metal without scarring the surface.

replace all vaccum hose that you disconnect.
DO NOT REUSE IT.
it will collectivly cause a massive air leak.

Out of all the work I do, this project is the mainstay of my work.

I do this project most often because i havent seen a 1990/91 '7 yet that didnt need it when i bought it.

It will improve top end DRAMATICALLY

AND

Increase gas milage by 15-20%

There is a reason it was put there.

It effectivly does a port job on your car at 3500 and the puts it back after its done!

Sniper_X
Always Tinkering

 

ok so you just want me to clean everything (which is what i need to do anyway), and then do that home depot way of making the ports work?

thanks guys

 

How do you remove the 5th and 6th ports? Anyone got any pictures?

 

I have an 88 gtu and i have the same problem the car has no top end power whatsoever so it's definitely the auxilliary ports. I did notice that one of wires on the acv was burned completely off the switching solenoid valve i believe. I desperately need to get this fixed the ports looked like they haven't opened since like 1995 or something, can anybody help me? PLEASE
Ryne

 

on my 86 when I rebuilt it I took out the 5/6 ports and contoured them smooth with JB weld. Who cares about bottom end. Pop the clutch, burn the tires a bit and youll never see below 5000 till your at idle again! =)
I noticed a decient increase from when my 5/6 ports wernt working.
Before I took them out I hooked the vacume line from the actuators to a hand pump. I could manualy open and close them at the same rpm. when you fix the stuck ports dont expect a whole lot of power. Its noticeable but not a huge diffrence. my opinon though

 

Hey BUSREX....Get an air hose from an air compressor and blow into the pipe that feeds the actuators. You know, that pipe just aft of the rear actuator. The actuators will pull in. Just hold the hose near the pipe opening. It only takes a couple of psi. That or get a long piece of vac hose and blow like the dickens into it with it hooked up to the pipe. The actuators should try to move. Its possible that the gaskets on the actuators are leaking . It takes but two 10mm nuts to remove the actuators and replace the gaskets. Did you try the grease test while driving at high rpm??? I'm saying if you moved the actuators with your fingers, there is no sense removing the intake to get them working. You either have a gasket leak or are not getting exaust pressure to them...........and KLEACH, if I had your car, I'd see if the solenoid that opens them is working or not. You might try bypassing the solenoid and feed the air directly to the actuators to see what happens. Its possible that the solenoid is the only problem.

 

Fix
the
ports
right!

 

Taking the intake off and pulling the actuators out is a waste of human resources. Its not required if the actuators are moving the sleeves. If the actuators are moving under finger pressure the problem lies in the pressure to move them or its nothing more than a actuator gasket leaking. It does not take squat in the way of a leak to disable them. Best thing you can do is have a MITTYVAC and pressurize the actuators and make sure they move and remain fully actuated without having to pump more pressure to them. In other words the pressure should not leak off . If it does then you have a leaking gasket. On the 89 and newer cars the first thing I would check is to see if the solenoid that drives them is functional. Solenoid no worky. Actuators no worky.

 

Took everything off today to get a better look at what the problem was and guess what I found? The Air Control Valves were bad. The joint where the hose goes into it was snapped and therefore no pressure was even entering the valves. So just temp I removed the ACV's and just got the sleeves to move and just wired them open. I removed the air pump to access the front aux port and didn't put it back on. The cars has a lot more top end (and I mean a lot) and I don't think I lost that much bottom end. Lets put it this way, about 30 min after I did this I ran across a civic SI and beat the Sh*t out of him. What was someone saying about the air pump effecting the cat?

 

Can someone explain to me what the air pump has to do with the cat if any???



kleach

 

The air pump pumps air (duh!) into the cat to allow it's catalysts to work properly. The stock cat must have air injection otherwise it isn't doing much cleaning and will clog up quite quickly. If you remove the air pump you must replace the cat with either a straight piece of pipe or (if required for emissions checks) an aftermarket cat that doesn't require air injection (it'll have no connection on the side).

 

ok thanks

 

To the guy who needed small hands...

If you take a long straight slot you can reach the lever by going straight down on it instead of trying to reach underneath I had a pic of what I am talking about but I cant find it now...