Well, I've been searching, but can't find anything, I get a few threads from a few weeks ago, then it jumps to 06, then even earlier. I just have a few small questions, and I know they have been asked many times over, but here it goes.

One of my Aux. ports is seized. The one farther back moves fine, the one closer to the front doesn't move at all. I just picked up the racing beat header and presilencer to finish my exhaust, which will mate to an Apex'i GT Spec catback. Now would I wire open the 5th/6th ports? Would I remove them? I'm honestly not sure, because I have never modded or messed around with an N/A before. If I do wire them open/remove them, how do I go about doing that? I was looking to get the Pineapple Racing sleeves also. Any input would help, just trying to fix up the daily driver.
-Eric

 

you can actually take your sleeves out by removing the assembly.. the actuators and such..
its not that hard, i think its about 4 bolts. you can just pull them out by hand.

 

I guess I'll just remove them when I get the full exhaust on. I know about the whole loss of low end tq and such, oh well. Do I need any sort of block off plates or do I just take them off? I don't really know anything about them lol.

 

hmm... this will turn into something very big so i will be helpful.


there are many ways to go about this. you could leave them working. this has some advantages and some dissadvantages. your going aftermarket exhaust and i assume straight rthrough. this wont work cus they need like 2 psi to opperate. look in the archoives for a way to opperate with a lumbar pump.

wire them open is simple. just remove the actuators, and the rods to teh actuators connect to .. um... rod arms for the rods that turn the port sleeves, you turn these rod arms so that they are going inwards i believe. and just run a wire between them. youll know what im talking about.

or just removing the whole damn system. you must take the manifolds off to do this, but it provides teh greatest top end and midrage improvement. there will be holes in your intake manifold, and oyu can get creatiove and plug em however you see fit,


now the weird stuff people argue about.

some say make em work properly cus youll lose low end torque blah blah blah. this is trivial. you cannot tell a difference at all.

let the arguing begin.

 

Yeah, I know the idea of wiring them open/removing them would stir up a lot but this is my daily driver, and I don't plan on building some straight drag car or track car, just something to cruise around with while I'm building my turbo II. I'm trying to get this fixed the easy way, so I'll probably just remove them then.

 

I used a 6 port racing beat header... it opens my ports.. and as for cleaning them all u have to do is pull them clean them and reinstall them

they work great for me!

Dave

 

That is incredibly false. I currently have my aux ports wired open while I am waiting for my RPM switch to come in and it is very noticeably slower down low. It feels downright sluggish in the low rpm range. When they were stuck closed it was very peppy down low, so it is a large difference.

To fix them right as stock it depends on the presilencer you got. If it has the tube on it then it works just like stock. If not, it won't work and you need the lumbar pumps and a RPM switch to operate them. If you are going to "wire them open" don't half *** it and literally wire them open. Just pull the manifold and take the whole system out, you will get greater top end gains.
If you do have the tube on the presilencer it is fairly easy to fix them to work right. Just let us know and we can walk you through how to do it if thats the case.

 

My presilencer is the older one (I believe), it does have the tube on it. I don't have an airpump on also, was planning on removing that.

 

Wiring them open, thats a **** pour excuse to not fixing the main problem and it kills your low end torque. Go electric or in S5 case use your airpump. I run carb cleaner through my engine once a year, which fixed my ports not opening right problem(at the time) then went electric with RPM switch and lumbar airpump + assorted relays. I have NEVER had a problem since the conversion back in 2002

 

can you snap some pics so i could see your set-up with the relays, rpm switch and such? plz lol.

 

You are going to have to take the manifold off even if you wanted to wire them open. If the front one is seized than there probably is alot of build up on the sleeve in the front section. You can't wire that one open if you can't move it.
So if you take the manifold off you might as well clean them up and get them operational.

 

I will try to take some this weekend.

 

Should I just get the pineapple racing sleeves? Is it possible to use the aux. ports without a airpump? Exhaust (when the rest is put on) will be the racing beat header, racing beat presilencer (the one with the tube on it), then the apex'i gt spec catback. I definitely need to get it fixed, I just need some damn time off of work.

 

yes that is the way mine is set up and it works great buy the pinapple sleeves take your manifold off i soaked mine in carb cleaner for 1 night and then broke them lose with some plires cleaned it all real good put the sleeves in and put everything back on hook up the presilencer tube and it will work just fine dont make this compicated. best of luck !

 

Sounds like a plan, so I can do this with the airpump removed haha?

 

On the s4 the air pump has nothing to do with the aux ports, thats just on the s5.
First of all, what is seized? Is the actuator bad, or is the sleeve actually stuck inside the iron? If its just the actuator then you can just replace it. If the sleeve is stuck then you will have to pull the intake manifold regardless to clear it up. If you have it out you might as well get the pineapple inserts. While I don't think they do much, it probably at least gives a few HP and they are pretty cheap in the scheme of NA power.
To make your setup run like stock, all you need is to free up the aux sleeves then hook up the split air pipe to the tube on the presilencer and the hose from that to the thing on the LIM that operates the actuators. It is very simple. I have the same setup as you (except with apex N1 catback) and it works the aux ports just fine.

 

As far as I know, it's just the actuator. It's frozen, it won't budge at all. The rear one works fine, moves fine. The front, nothing. I have a few extra actuators I can try and see if they work. The previous owner changed them cause the car had the 3800 hesitation problem. It no longer has the hesitation.