Write Up: Clutch and Pressure Plate
02-02-06, 07:13 PM
#1
The Cause of Death
Thread Starter
Write Up: Clutch and Pressure Plate Replacement
Alright. So the other day I finished installing my ACT clutch and HD pressure plate into my 88 SE, with some mods. This is going to be somewhat of a walk-through in removing the transmission, installing the parts, and reinstalling everything. Here we go.
First I had to take off my intake assembly, set it on the UIM to get it out of the way, and take off the 5th and 6th port actuators. They're each held on by two 10mm nuts, bolted to studs coming off the block, removal is easy, use a 1/4" ratchet and a small extension. This gives a little bit better access to the nuts keeping the header on. I'm also still running my air pump, but if the air pump was removed it would be even easier. Don't forget to disconnect your O2 sensor wire at the rear of the motor, above the LIM. Don't want any hang ups when removing the exhaust.
After that it was time to work on the interior. First I unscrewed my shift ****, then I popped off the shifter surround, leather boot and all shifter boots. They all just pop off, at least mine did.
Next I removed my exhaust. It was pretty simple. I have a full RB system on my car, so I managed to get it off in two pieces. The left muffler had to be removed, it was tough getting the hangers off the donuts with the full exhaust in tact. After I removed it, she came off quite easily and was set on a table, with the nuts from the header in a bag in between the two pipes off the catback. We can't be losing **** here, you know.
After the exhaust came off, it was time to remove all the sensors off the transmission. The neutral safety switch was removed, all was needed was to disconnect it from it's connector. The same holds true for the 5th/reverse gear connector. Also need to remove the speedometer cable. The neutral safety switch and 5th/reverse gear connectors are both on top of the tranny, so they're hard to see, but you should see wires going to them, hopefully with connectors.
After the exhaust was removed, I drained the tranny fluid out. I think the drain plug was like 13/16 or something, it was a large head size. Anyway, tranny fluid out, time to disconnect the driveshaft. There's 4 14mm (IIRC, could be wrong) bolts keeping the driveshaft connected to the rear diff. I would suggest spraying some PBlaster on them for a few minutes before, because they should be on pretty damn tight. Remove the four nuts and bolts, set them aside with the driveshaft, you don't wanna lose those, either. A little tip when removing the bolts. The bolts themselves may be a bit stuck in their holes. What I did was completely remove the nuts, then thread them on again a few more threads, spray PBlaster into the hole and tap on the nut with a hammer, to push them out. It may look pretty tight removing them, but if you try to turn the driveshaft (HELPS IF THE CAR WAS LEFT IN NEUTRAL, WITH E BRAKE OFF!) until the mount is parallel with the floor, the one closest to the right rear tire (bottom left on driveshaft mount) you can tap it forward, and there's enough room to slide the bolts out. I don't know if it can be done without the driveshaft being turned so the bolts are on the lower most left part, because it is tight back there. Anyway, after the bolts are removed, the driveshaft should be able to slide forward a bit, towards the transmission, angle the mount/yoke down, and slide the tranny out, should be nice and smooth coming out. Next step: heat shields.
There is a heat shield running most of the length of the transmission tunnel. I don't rember what size the bolts are, but I'll go out on a whim and say they are either 12 or 14mm. I'm leaning towards twelve. There are probably around 15 of these, once removed, take the shield and put it on a table, and put the bolts back in their holes, so you don't lose em. Next is the fun part, the transmission.
But before you get to that, take the starter out. Hopefully you disconnected your battery, and you can take off the ground connector on the starter, which is close to the power cable running to it, it's a small black connector. Next unscrew the power feed to the starter, which has a 10mm nut holding it on. Remove the wire, put the nut back in so you don't lose it, and set this on the table with all the other components. Then take out your 3/8" ratchet, extension, and 14mm socket. It's tranny time.
This is where you start getting at your goal, the rest was just what you had to get out before taking this big chunk of metal out. There are six bolts keeping the bellhousing connected. One of which went through the starter. Now would be a good idea to find a way to mark where each of these bolts went. Either draw a ghetto diagram on a piece of paper, marking length of the bolts to their holes, or figure some other way out. Either way, don't mix up these when they go back in.
A tranny jack isn't necessary unless you have you and a JACKED friend or two helping you out, but it does make the job easier. So...bottom line, use one.
Bring the jack up to height, I rested it on mostly on the drain plug area, by the gear box, tied a vinyl strap around it, kept the side anchors at a decent set up, removed all the bolts on the bellhousing. Don't forget the tranny mount. It has four 14mm bolts keeping it on. Remove them, put the bolts on the table with the rest of your stuff, hopefully in a marked bag. You don't want to be mixing stuff up. I left the mount connected to the transmission, although the FSM says to take it apart. I didn't see a need to.
Think I'm forgetting something? You're right, this is where I fucked up, I forgot to disconnect the slave cylinder! Luckily I noticed it before I started getting too frustrated with the removal. The slave cylinder can be removed from the top of the car, so I'd suggest removing it after you remove your 5th/6th port actuators. I'll make a list of the order of removal at the end of this. Moving on...
By now the the transmission should only be held up by two little guides, about the width of my middle finger (I'm 5'5, 135 to give an idea) so they're not large. Your transmission is resting on the jack, essentially, so raise her up as much as you can, angle it to what you think is fit, get a prybar out and either a soft piece of metal, like brass or aluminum, and put it between the block and the transmission to separate her. I had a friend working with me this time, so I wrapped a pry bar in a rag while he "jiggled" the transmission from side to side, to free it from the block. After a few minutes it started to come loose, and I pried against it until she separated completely. Had her about an inch to an inch and a half from the block, then decided she had enough clearance to be lowered. So we lowered her down, and brought her over and tossed her onto a table.
Look inside. Mine had tons of grease and dirt and just **** all over it. A can of brakleen or something good like that should do the trick, get a lot of rags, too, cause you're gonna clean this **** up (if it's dirty). My sight hole for the flywheel was gone, there was no plug there, so that could have been why mine was so dirty. I took a piece of tin and RTV and covered it after I reinstalled, though. Clean up all the **** out of your bellhousing, and it wouldn't hurt to clean up the outside of the transmission, too. Weight reduction, y0!
Next was removing the pressure plate assembly from the flywheel. There were about six bolts keeping it in, two of which are different lengths. Remember where they go...paint pen or chalk is a good idea. To remove the pressure plate take a buddy to the front of the motor and have him hold onto the E-Shaft VIA the water pump pully. Get a socket on there, it'll keep the flywheel and pressure plate assembly from turning, enabling you to remove those six bolts. I don't remember the size of the bolts off the top of my head, but they could've been 12mm or 14mm. They are torqued to 20 ft/lbs. Remove them all, and the clutch and pressure plate assembly should slide off.
Now is the perfect time to check your flywheel. If there are any cracks or anything...it would be wise to discard it. Hot spots can be found because they are usually distinct blueish spots on the flywheel. If you want to get it resurfaced, do so, but make sure she's in spec before you do, and when you get her back. Mine had a few hot spots on it, but overall was in decent shape. Used an air powered deburring tool (you know, the little cookie things) to take any **** off of the flywheel surface. There was no grooving of any kind, she was nice and flat, no run out or anything, no cracks. My flywheel was reusable. Next is pilot bearing removal and reinstall.
Some people have horror stories about these, but mine was relatively easy. It's really best to use the correct tools, and I had em. I used a pilot bearing puller. I attached the puller to a slide hammer, gave her 4 or 5 good hits and she came right out. Installing the new one is quite simple, as well. Take a little bit of bearing grease, put a little bit on the end sliding into your flywheel, and a little bit on the inside, just so she never binds, and you can begin the installation. It would be a good idea to take a deep socket, I think I used a 14mm (you don't want the inside of the bearing to get hit with the socket, or whatever you use, outside is ok, inside is bad) and line her up in the flywheel, give the socket a few good wacks, and the pilot bearing should start to slide in. Hit her until she bottoms out. You might think it's in far enough...but give it another good shot to make sure. Next is installing the pilot bearing seal. Same thing as the pilot bearing, just make sure the sealing end is going towards the bearing, and not away. Note this when you remove the old pilot bearing. Do the same procedure to install the seal as the pilot bearing. Next is clutch and pressure plate installation.
Here's where you get to open the boxes for your new toys...hooray!! You're going to want to take your clutch alignment tool, make sure it fits the clutch splines and onto the input shaft. Mine did, hooray. Now is time to replace the realase bearing, also called a throwout bearing. This is in the bellhousing, and it should be pretty straight forward. Note the direction it was installed before removing it to put the new one in. There's no reason to **** this up.
Anyway, with your new toys laying on the table, grab some sandpaper and rough up the clutch friction surface a bit, and the pressure plate a bit. You want to get any kind of **** that was possibly on there off. You can also use one of those deburring cookies, it will make it faster, I used one. Now take some grease, and grease up the input shaft of your bell housing a bit. Where the splines are, and where the release bearing will be sliding along. You DO NOT want this to bind up. Use a LITTLE bit of grease on the input shaft splines, just a light coat. Next you get to install your clutch and pressure plate assembly.
Take the alignment tool out again, put it in the clutch hub, so it is splined in, and put the alignment tool into the pilot bearing. Now take your pressure plate and the six bolts, and screw them in by hand, until you can't anymore. Now you're going to tighten them down, slowly, all the way around. Remember to go in a star pattern, so they are all equal. After they're as tight as is comfortable, by hand (DO NOT OVER TIGTHEN THEM, THIS IS WHY YOU HAVE A TORQUE WRENCH!) grab a buddy and have him hold the front E-Shaft bolt again, which will prevent the flywheel, clutch, and pressure plate assembly from spinning, and torque the six bolts to 20 ft/lbs. Going in a star pattern. Double check them. They're all torqued, woopey! Take that alignment tool out. Throw it in your tool box.
Now you get to reinstall the transmission! Hopefully it's pretty clean by now. Oh yeah, now would be a good time to add the fluid. I didn't, and waited until it was back on the car. There's not much room to install fluid into that thing, lol. Two quarts should be sufficient, rember go with 75w90 gear oil. Unless you have a personal preference, that's just what the FSM calls for. I used Valvoline synthetic.
Put your heat shields back on. Now install the tranny.
Put your tranny back on a tranny jack, grab a buddy, and start to work her in. This may be a bit tedious and frustrating, but use the shifter hole as a guide. I would suggest angling the transmission (bellhousing side) facing upwards towards the motor, and then straightening it out as the shifter goes into the hole in the console. You're gonna be pushing on this thing, but after a bit of messing with it she should go together nice and flush. A good write up on this can be found here: https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...g+transmission
Next is putting everything back together.. I'll compile a list of the order of removal of stuff now.
1. Shift ****, surround, and rubber shifter boots.
2. Intake, 5th/6th port actuators, O2 sensor wire.
3. Slave cylinder (On top of tranny, can be removed from top of engine, located behind oil filter pedastal.
4. Exhaust system (If S4, tie up the split air pipe to something, and don't lose the gasket or bolts!)
5. Drain tranny fluid.
6. Remove all sensors from transmission.
7. Remove driveshaft.
8. Remove starter.
9. Remove heat shields.
10. Get out the tranny jack, jack up tranny a little.
11. Remove tranny mount, and all bellhousing bolts.
12. Remove transmission.
13. Remove clutch and pressure plate assembly.
14. Clean bellhousing and transmission.
15. Inspect flywheel, make sure clutch disc splines line up with input shaft off transmission.
16. Remove old pilot bearing.
17. Install new pilot bearing.
18. Remove old release bearing.
19. Install new release bearing.
20. Clean up/sand clutch surface, pressure plate surfact, and flywheel surfact.
21. Install clutch and pressure plate assembly.
22. Install transmission.
23. Install heat shields.
24. Install driveshaft.
25. Make sure driveshaft and flywheel/pressure plate and clutch assembly spin as one unit, that way you know everything will work when you go to drive the car.
26. Install all sensors on transmission.
27. Install starter.
28. Install exhaust system, and split air pipe.
29. Bleed slave cylinder, reinstall to top of transmission.
30. Connect O2 sensor wire
31. Install 5th/6th port actuators
32. Install intake.
33. Put back on your under tray.
Start your car up on the lift still, have a buddy watch your back wheels, make sure they spin when you engage the clutch in first, and reverse, go through the gears if you'd like. Just to make sure everything is straight... Reverse lights come on and all that, neutral safety switch works.
Pat yourself on the back, throw some miles on your new clutch to break it in before you start dumping it, and go get drunk. I got wasted in celebration, it was good.
Overall, this took me about seven hours. I also had only two hours at a time, I did it during class. And each day I had to push the car back into the shop from the parking lot, and re-lift it and all that. It was spread over the course of three days, and during the initial removal of the transmission I had a buddy of mine help me, but installing everything I did by myself, for the most part.
Good luck on your clutch jobs, and I hope this is helpful to anyone who plans on doing it in the future.
James
PS: I apologize for any misspellings, I don't have spell check. And if I missed anything, feel free to add. I just kicked myself cause I forgot to say install stater, but I added it in while I could still edit.
First I had to take off my intake assembly, set it on the UIM to get it out of the way, and take off the 5th and 6th port actuators. They're each held on by two 10mm nuts, bolted to studs coming off the block, removal is easy, use a 1/4" ratchet and a small extension. This gives a little bit better access to the nuts keeping the header on. I'm also still running my air pump, but if the air pump was removed it would be even easier. Don't forget to disconnect your O2 sensor wire at the rear of the motor, above the LIM. Don't want any hang ups when removing the exhaust.
After that it was time to work on the interior. First I unscrewed my shift ****, then I popped off the shifter surround, leather boot and all shifter boots. They all just pop off, at least mine did.
Next I removed my exhaust. It was pretty simple. I have a full RB system on my car, so I managed to get it off in two pieces. The left muffler had to be removed, it was tough getting the hangers off the donuts with the full exhaust in tact. After I removed it, she came off quite easily and was set on a table, with the nuts from the header in a bag in between the two pipes off the catback. We can't be losing **** here, you know.
After the exhaust came off, it was time to remove all the sensors off the transmission. The neutral safety switch was removed, all was needed was to disconnect it from it's connector. The same holds true for the 5th/reverse gear connector. Also need to remove the speedometer cable. The neutral safety switch and 5th/reverse gear connectors are both on top of the tranny, so they're hard to see, but you should see wires going to them, hopefully with connectors.
After the exhaust was removed, I drained the tranny fluid out. I think the drain plug was like 13/16 or something, it was a large head size. Anyway, tranny fluid out, time to disconnect the driveshaft. There's 4 14mm (IIRC, could be wrong) bolts keeping the driveshaft connected to the rear diff. I would suggest spraying some PBlaster on them for a few minutes before, because they should be on pretty damn tight. Remove the four nuts and bolts, set them aside with the driveshaft, you don't wanna lose those, either. A little tip when removing the bolts. The bolts themselves may be a bit stuck in their holes. What I did was completely remove the nuts, then thread them on again a few more threads, spray PBlaster into the hole and tap on the nut with a hammer, to push them out. It may look pretty tight removing them, but if you try to turn the driveshaft (HELPS IF THE CAR WAS LEFT IN NEUTRAL, WITH E BRAKE OFF!) until the mount is parallel with the floor, the one closest to the right rear tire (bottom left on driveshaft mount) you can tap it forward, and there's enough room to slide the bolts out. I don't know if it can be done without the driveshaft being turned so the bolts are on the lower most left part, because it is tight back there. Anyway, after the bolts are removed, the driveshaft should be able to slide forward a bit, towards the transmission, angle the mount/yoke down, and slide the tranny out, should be nice and smooth coming out. Next step: heat shields.
There is a heat shield running most of the length of the transmission tunnel. I don't rember what size the bolts are, but I'll go out on a whim and say they are either 12 or 14mm. I'm leaning towards twelve. There are probably around 15 of these, once removed, take the shield and put it on a table, and put the bolts back in their holes, so you don't lose em. Next is the fun part, the transmission.
But before you get to that, take the starter out. Hopefully you disconnected your battery, and you can take off the ground connector on the starter, which is close to the power cable running to it, it's a small black connector. Next unscrew the power feed to the starter, which has a 10mm nut holding it on. Remove the wire, put the nut back in so you don't lose it, and set this on the table with all the other components. Then take out your 3/8" ratchet, extension, and 14mm socket. It's tranny time.
This is where you start getting at your goal, the rest was just what you had to get out before taking this big chunk of metal out. There are six bolts keeping the bellhousing connected. One of which went through the starter. Now would be a good idea to find a way to mark where each of these bolts went. Either draw a ghetto diagram on a piece of paper, marking length of the bolts to their holes, or figure some other way out. Either way, don't mix up these when they go back in.
A tranny jack isn't necessary unless you have you and a JACKED friend or two helping you out, but it does make the job easier. So...bottom line, use one.
Bring the jack up to height, I rested it on mostly on the drain plug area, by the gear box, tied a vinyl strap around it, kept the side anchors at a decent set up, removed all the bolts on the bellhousing. Don't forget the tranny mount. It has four 14mm bolts keeping it on. Remove them, put the bolts on the table with the rest of your stuff, hopefully in a marked bag. You don't want to be mixing stuff up. I left the mount connected to the transmission, although the FSM says to take it apart. I didn't see a need to.
Think I'm forgetting something? You're right, this is where I fucked up, I forgot to disconnect the slave cylinder! Luckily I noticed it before I started getting too frustrated with the removal. The slave cylinder can be removed from the top of the car, so I'd suggest removing it after you remove your 5th/6th port actuators. I'll make a list of the order of removal at the end of this. Moving on...
By now the the transmission should only be held up by two little guides, about the width of my middle finger (I'm 5'5, 135 to give an idea) so they're not large. Your transmission is resting on the jack, essentially, so raise her up as much as you can, angle it to what you think is fit, get a prybar out and either a soft piece of metal, like brass or aluminum, and put it between the block and the transmission to separate her. I had a friend working with me this time, so I wrapped a pry bar in a rag while he "jiggled" the transmission from side to side, to free it from the block. After a few minutes it started to come loose, and I pried against it until she separated completely. Had her about an inch to an inch and a half from the block, then decided she had enough clearance to be lowered. So we lowered her down, and brought her over and tossed her onto a table.
Look inside. Mine had tons of grease and dirt and just **** all over it. A can of brakleen or something good like that should do the trick, get a lot of rags, too, cause you're gonna clean this **** up (if it's dirty). My sight hole for the flywheel was gone, there was no plug there, so that could have been why mine was so dirty. I took a piece of tin and RTV and covered it after I reinstalled, though. Clean up all the **** out of your bellhousing, and it wouldn't hurt to clean up the outside of the transmission, too. Weight reduction, y0!
Next was removing the pressure plate assembly from the flywheel. There were about six bolts keeping it in, two of which are different lengths. Remember where they go...paint pen or chalk is a good idea. To remove the pressure plate take a buddy to the front of the motor and have him hold onto the E-Shaft VIA the water pump pully. Get a socket on there, it'll keep the flywheel and pressure plate assembly from turning, enabling you to remove those six bolts. I don't remember the size of the bolts off the top of my head, but they could've been 12mm or 14mm. They are torqued to 20 ft/lbs. Remove them all, and the clutch and pressure plate assembly should slide off.
Now is the perfect time to check your flywheel. If there are any cracks or anything...it would be wise to discard it. Hot spots can be found because they are usually distinct blueish spots on the flywheel. If you want to get it resurfaced, do so, but make sure she's in spec before you do, and when you get her back. Mine had a few hot spots on it, but overall was in decent shape. Used an air powered deburring tool (you know, the little cookie things) to take any **** off of the flywheel surface. There was no grooving of any kind, she was nice and flat, no run out or anything, no cracks. My flywheel was reusable. Next is pilot bearing removal and reinstall.
Some people have horror stories about these, but mine was relatively easy. It's really best to use the correct tools, and I had em. I used a pilot bearing puller. I attached the puller to a slide hammer, gave her 4 or 5 good hits and she came right out. Installing the new one is quite simple, as well. Take a little bit of bearing grease, put a little bit on the end sliding into your flywheel, and a little bit on the inside, just so she never binds, and you can begin the installation. It would be a good idea to take a deep socket, I think I used a 14mm (you don't want the inside of the bearing to get hit with the socket, or whatever you use, outside is ok, inside is bad) and line her up in the flywheel, give the socket a few good wacks, and the pilot bearing should start to slide in. Hit her until she bottoms out. You might think it's in far enough...but give it another good shot to make sure. Next is installing the pilot bearing seal. Same thing as the pilot bearing, just make sure the sealing end is going towards the bearing, and not away. Note this when you remove the old pilot bearing. Do the same procedure to install the seal as the pilot bearing. Next is clutch and pressure plate installation.
Here's where you get to open the boxes for your new toys...hooray!! You're going to want to take your clutch alignment tool, make sure it fits the clutch splines and onto the input shaft. Mine did, hooray. Now is time to replace the realase bearing, also called a throwout bearing. This is in the bellhousing, and it should be pretty straight forward. Note the direction it was installed before removing it to put the new one in. There's no reason to **** this up.
Anyway, with your new toys laying on the table, grab some sandpaper and rough up the clutch friction surface a bit, and the pressure plate a bit. You want to get any kind of **** that was possibly on there off. You can also use one of those deburring cookies, it will make it faster, I used one. Now take some grease, and grease up the input shaft of your bell housing a bit. Where the splines are, and where the release bearing will be sliding along. You DO NOT want this to bind up. Use a LITTLE bit of grease on the input shaft splines, just a light coat. Next you get to install your clutch and pressure plate assembly.
Take the alignment tool out again, put it in the clutch hub, so it is splined in, and put the alignment tool into the pilot bearing. Now take your pressure plate and the six bolts, and screw them in by hand, until you can't anymore. Now you're going to tighten them down, slowly, all the way around. Remember to go in a star pattern, so they are all equal. After they're as tight as is comfortable, by hand (DO NOT OVER TIGTHEN THEM, THIS IS WHY YOU HAVE A TORQUE WRENCH!) grab a buddy and have him hold the front E-Shaft bolt again, which will prevent the flywheel, clutch, and pressure plate assembly from spinning, and torque the six bolts to 20 ft/lbs. Going in a star pattern. Double check them. They're all torqued, woopey! Take that alignment tool out. Throw it in your tool box.
Now you get to reinstall the transmission! Hopefully it's pretty clean by now. Oh yeah, now would be a good time to add the fluid. I didn't, and waited until it was back on the car. There's not much room to install fluid into that thing, lol. Two quarts should be sufficient, rember go with 75w90 gear oil. Unless you have a personal preference, that's just what the FSM calls for. I used Valvoline synthetic.
Put your heat shields back on. Now install the tranny.
Put your tranny back on a tranny jack, grab a buddy, and start to work her in. This may be a bit tedious and frustrating, but use the shifter hole as a guide. I would suggest angling the transmission (bellhousing side) facing upwards towards the motor, and then straightening it out as the shifter goes into the hole in the console. You're gonna be pushing on this thing, but after a bit of messing with it she should go together nice and flush. A good write up on this can be found here: https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...g+transmission
Next is putting everything back together.. I'll compile a list of the order of removal of stuff now.
1. Shift ****, surround, and rubber shifter boots.
2. Intake, 5th/6th port actuators, O2 sensor wire.
3. Slave cylinder (On top of tranny, can be removed from top of engine, located behind oil filter pedastal.
4. Exhaust system (If S4, tie up the split air pipe to something, and don't lose the gasket or bolts!)
5. Drain tranny fluid.
6. Remove all sensors from transmission.
7. Remove driveshaft.
8. Remove starter.
9. Remove heat shields.
10. Get out the tranny jack, jack up tranny a little.
11. Remove tranny mount, and all bellhousing bolts.
12. Remove transmission.
13. Remove clutch and pressure plate assembly.
14. Clean bellhousing and transmission.
15. Inspect flywheel, make sure clutch disc splines line up with input shaft off transmission.
16. Remove old pilot bearing.
17. Install new pilot bearing.
18. Remove old release bearing.
19. Install new release bearing.
20. Clean up/sand clutch surface, pressure plate surfact, and flywheel surfact.
21. Install clutch and pressure plate assembly.
22. Install transmission.
23. Install heat shields.
24. Install driveshaft.
25. Make sure driveshaft and flywheel/pressure plate and clutch assembly spin as one unit, that way you know everything will work when you go to drive the car.
26. Install all sensors on transmission.
27. Install starter.
28. Install exhaust system, and split air pipe.
29. Bleed slave cylinder, reinstall to top of transmission.
30. Connect O2 sensor wire
31. Install 5th/6th port actuators
32. Install intake.
33. Put back on your under tray.
Start your car up on the lift still, have a buddy watch your back wheels, make sure they spin when you engage the clutch in first, and reverse, go through the gears if you'd like. Just to make sure everything is straight... Reverse lights come on and all that, neutral safety switch works.
Pat yourself on the back, throw some miles on your new clutch to break it in before you start dumping it, and go get drunk. I got wasted in celebration, it was good.
Overall, this took me about seven hours. I also had only two hours at a time, I did it during class. And each day I had to push the car back into the shop from the parking lot, and re-lift it and all that. It was spread over the course of three days, and during the initial removal of the transmission I had a buddy of mine help me, but installing everything I did by myself, for the most part.
Good luck on your clutch jobs, and I hope this is helpful to anyone who plans on doing it in the future.
James
PS: I apologize for any misspellings, I don't have spell check. And if I missed anything, feel free to add. I just kicked myself cause I forgot to say install stater, but I added it in while I could still edit.
Last edited by spot_skater; 02-02-06 at 07:19 PM.
02-02-06, 08:01 PM
#4
The Cause of Death
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by Alias
Did you remove your intake, and actuators to swap your clutch? Not needed, in case you did.
James
02-02-06, 08:15 PM
#5
Buy my car......
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: Dayton ,OH
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Gotcha. Getting that exhaust off is a pain in the ***. The transmision is cake if you have the tools, and take your time. I think everyone forgets the slave cylinder.
02-03-06, 05:30 PM
#7
The Cause of Death
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by Alias
Gotcha. Getting that exhaust off is a pain in the ***. The transmision is cake if you have the tools, and take your time. I think everyone forgets the slave cylinder.
Originally Posted by rodney87
Very nice write up! I'm gonna print this out when I change my clutch (hopefully soon) for reference.
James
