cwsttu

Ok man first off ill just reinform you of how the ports work....

when lower than around 3800 rpms the ports are in the closed position this provides you with more of what little torque the engine has however after 3800 rpms the ports open via backpressure (only on s4's 89-88, s5's ports open via the air pump) from the exhaust and feeds the motor more air which significantly increases the hp and top end power.

with that think about how if your ports are wired/stuck in one position... one of the two are going to suffer from that right... in my case I had wired open the ports because I wanted top end power so I can haul on the highway, if you wire them closed or they are stuck closed then your around town driving will be nice, better gas mileage and more torquey but no top end really.

just so you know how to wire/test the ports... directly above the exhaust manifold there will be two bell looking devices with rods that move in and out... each are held on by two nuts that take a 10 mm socket to remove... remove those two actuators and you will see two rotating triangular shaped rods sticking out.... there are two positions for each of them....

Wired open will be where the handle of the rod is facing in the 6:00 position... this means you will have your top end...

Wired closed will be the 9 and 3 o’clock position... this means you’ll have low end but no top end really

when you remove the actuators and see these rods try to turn them with your hand... if they are stuck it will be obvious... if they are hard to turn then more than likely they are not functioning... if they turn easy then your ports should work just fine...

to wire them open just rotate them into the position you want and use some metal wire or a garbage bag tie to hold them in that angle just wire them to the nearest stud you can find

Now if they are stuck or hard to turn you will need to clean the ports or remove them like I did... however I warn you it’s no easy task...

removing them is ONLY beneficial if you have a bunch of good supporting mods... if your car is stock or just near stock then I would highly advise you to just clean them or make them functional my car is far from stock and it was extremely good for me to remove them so I gained power everywhere instead of suffering from open or closed

to clean or remove them involves taking off the intake, TB, Dynamic chamber, BAC, Upper intake manifold, and Lower intake manifold... it sounds easy at first but when you look at it you have vacuum hoses going everywhere, fuel lines, OMP lines, coolant lines and everything... if this is your first time to attempt this don’t plan on finishing it in a day, make sure you have new gaskets for the intakes you pull off... there are 3, pulsation dampener change is also recommended because you will be right there to change it after you remove everything... the hardest part to this job is making sure you don’t break anything..

the lower intake manifold has two OMP lines going to it and damn they are extremely brittle so be extremely careful, be sure to remove the pressure out of the fuel line as you will be removing the upper intake manifold which the secondary fuel injectors sit. Plan on also replacing all of the rubber vacuum hosing if they are old and brittle because they might break or tear

here is the write up of how to clean the ports

https://www.rx7club.com/forum/showthread.php?t=51210

to remove them just pull them out of the block and toss them away, no work needs to be done on the block at all… on the lower intake manifold you will need to hammer out the rods that turned the sleeves and block off the hole it then created when you pulled out the rods… the hole is the perfect size of a dime.. I put the small o ring back in the hole and a dime on top and JB welded the edges and face of the dime to seal the cracks, now your manifold is worth .20 cents no matter what condition it is in :P j/k

now the reason I removed my ports was because I have a extremely easy flowing exhaust and well I have no backpressure which is what a s4 needs for port actuation… I can deal with a tad tiny loss of torque and I did not want to mess with the electronic ports people are building or leave them wired open or closed.. removing them was my best option and I’m extremely glad I chose that route because I love how my car feels and as far as starting it in the morning, I just get in it and turn the key and walk away, sure I let it warm up a bit before driving it but that’s because I have modified my dashpot so my rpms drop to quick to catch and might stall out… if you retain the stock dashpot this might not be a problem for you, plus my motor is in just damn good condition

I hope this clears a bit up for you and anybody else that wanted to read it or learn a thing or two.. feel free to add anything I might have missed or provide more links to this topic or just put in your input but keep it clean

cwsttu

bump for a read

Agent_D

iTrader: (2)

on a side note, completely removing your 5/6 ports is not the best idea, you should replace them with pineapple sleeves, or leave stock sleeves in and just loc-tite them in the open position. without the sleeves in it creates a pretty large turbulent area at the intake port in the engine, since the port has a wall that the air hits before entering the engine. the best setup is to use the pineapple sleeves and remove all the rods and things in the sleeves and the actuator rods and get them to stay very very firmly in the open position. few ways i have seen is with loc-tite and to slightly hammer out the edges of the opening end of the port and tap it into the opening so it will not move.

good to see my cleaning how to is still being used

CompuBob

sorry to bring this thread back..
I have a free flowing exhaust and my front rotor actuator is siezed. I am fairly certan that the rear rotor port does not even open aswell because of the lack of backpressure
just to make sure, before I go out and do this. to remove the actuators I do NOT need block off plates? just pull off and toss in the trash. I will be leaving the rods in place. so I just wire them open so they wont fall shut with the actuators removed.
Is this all I need to do? (yes, it's a S4)

driftseshrx7

hey, to make it simple just get ur LIM off and just pull the sleeves, its well worth it. and btw no block off plates needed.

CompuBob

yah, I would do that but it's a daily driver and I work full time so..
I'm just looking for a quick fix that'll last me about 5 weeks.
then the TII Jspec goes in and I'll be able to get a beater.

but thanks for the info.. when I'm out there today tapping a hole on the manifold flange so I can get the bolt out that broke, I'll be removing the solenoids.