JSmith0101

iTrader: (6)

I know, SEARCH! But I don't know what anything means on any of the things I've searched, I just would like a simple answer, and maybe some guidance.

Okay, I've got an '87 N/A and I'm running stock exhaust with a Pacesetter header (I know, they suck), I believe, and my air pump has been blocked off on the catalytic converter. With this setup, will my 5th and 6th ports still open? If not, what could I do to make them open?

I'm thinking about running no cats, but I'm not sure. I just need simple answers, no jargon, because I'll just ask again, just a yes or no, and why.

Please and thank you, and I'm sorry too.

iceblue

With no cats no. They may open right now if your split air pipe is hoked up. Take some grees and dap it on the rods of the ports actuators. Go drive and see if they opend, checking for a clean line / mark ware the grees was pushed up on the shaft.

JSmith0101

iTrader: (6)

I don't believe the split air pipe is hooked up. That's the pipe that goes from the pump to the main cat, right?

Also, I did go for a nice quick drive, only 8 miles or so, but fast 8 miles, never hit fifth, kept it above 4000 the whole time. And there was nothing, absolutely no change in the grease.

I just realized that the only stock is from the main cats back, from the main cat forward is just a straight pipe to my header. I think it's time to find out how to rig something up...

kontakt

before this thread gets any farther... S4 or S5

JSmith0101

iTrader: (6)

It's an 87, making it a S4.

iceblue

You can wire them open or purchas an exhaust like a RB that will allow them to open.

To wire them open you can pull off the actuators and wire the 2 triangles together. You have to pull them open though.

Other way is to hold the rod closed and wrap wire tie around the rod linkage arm and around the actuator holding it closed.

I used safty wire with a proper spining tool to hold mine open on my old 88N/A.

You can allso look in the arcives for a electric air pump activation method. If you kept your smog pump there should be a writeup on how to use this to open them.

Befor all this verify they are not stuck shut. Do this by pressing down on the rod of the actuator and seeing if it goes in. If not they need cleand. Perhaps they are lightly stuck and a few taps of a hammer on it will free them up.

JSmith0101

iTrader: (6)

Should I take off my air pump and intake piping, so I can access the front actuator better? I can't exactly get a good grip on it. Or should it be sliding in and out with relative ease?

JSmith0101

iTrader: (6)

Rotary Resurrection has a page on how to use my smog pump to actuate them. http://www.rotaryresurrection.com/ro...r/airpump.html

In there he says connect the hose to a nipple, where is the nipple?

JSmith0101

iTrader: (6)

Sorry about this, I didn't get in soon enough for an edit.

I've got one of the actuators moving, the other isn't so easy. Can I still get a power if only one port is open? I don't even know if it will work, or if I still have to rig something up, but, you know.

slip_N_slide83

take out the the 5/6 port system and use a block off plate, thats what i am doing with my mild port and rebuild, that means you have to take the lower intake off so you can slide them out... it takes away a lil low end, gives you better highend, (who needs lowend)

iceblue

What?? no no no no. I am sorry but no. This is wrong way and totaly just defeats the perpos of having a 6pt motor. It gives you no more power then properly working 6pt system. Only has loses.

They are easy to push open. If no they are stuck shut. The nipple is a lil bit back from the rear actuator. It is a little metal pipe. If you blow realy hard they should open, or atleast move. Look in the archives or search for cleaning 6pt.

If this is to hard for you but you can manage to tap them free. You can wire them open. But just not desierd or proper. You can pull them down and wire the triangles together pulling them open. Place the actuators back on or block them off.

slip_N_slide83

haha whatever you say man...been there done that

Turbo7MN

The only way you'll gain power from wiring them open is if they are stuck shut to begin with. Period. It is a much better idea to have the system functioning like it is supposed to.

If you can barely move the actuators, just keep working at it. I took off the actuators themselves (the canister things) and cleaned them up real good, then I grabbed the part that's on the manifold and worked it up and down repeatedly until it went up and down all the way without any trouble. If you're lucky, it will work. Otherwise you're going to end up taking the manifold off.

As far as electronic actuation goes, I did an idiot-proof write up a while back on how to do it reliably, and the way I suggest doing it, it's fully adjustable. I'm getting tired of linking to this thing, maybe I should just post it here

http://www.teamfc3s.org/forum/showth...threadid=42367

-Darren