Well I have my lower intake off and about to put my Pineapple sleeves in, but Im not quite sure in which direction that they should be opening. My stock sleeves were pointing opposite directions kinda ( Im sure that helps performance ) I drew a little picture in Paint to kinda illustrate how they were, and just want to know how they should be. I guess Im gonna JB weld the pineapple sleeves in to make sure this doesnt happen again. Anyway, basically just need to know how they should be facing ....thanks.

 

Hmm.....for some reason it made the picture like unreadable.....but anyway.....the sleeve on the left goes in and opens up toward the right (center of engine), and the sleeve on the right goes in and opens down.

 

Also, are the auxillary port actuators both the same, cuz I think I got them mixed up and dont know which side the came off of Hehe, they look identical.

 

Both sleeves are the same. On the engine, the ports are OPEN when facing TOWARDS each rotor...front facing back, rear facing forward. So turn your sleeve the right direction, and make note of where the crossbar is oriented(shoudl be nearly horizontal). Slide them in. Be sure to lube them.

Now move your rods on the lower intake to match the orientation of the sleeves. Install intake, and check to be sure they move freely by hand. Now install your actuators. The rods will them be moved by the actuators to the closed position. Check again to be sure they still move freely, adn continue the install.

 

Thank you!!!

 

What do you use to lube them? Plain ole oil?

 

KY jelly

 

The open side of the sleeves should face down when closed.

 

KY Jelly? Are you joking, or is that what is really used to lube some engine parts?

 

how much power do those new sleeves free up? Is it really worth geting them. i guess they dont cost to much to begin with though... Around $70 right?

 

I think its $50, and they did seem to help out top end a little..

 

IMO, I but them back In dry after Installing them with the Pineapple Sleeves. I know people may disagree with this practice but I however have a theory on this. The lubricant used will attract carbon which promote the sleeves from rotating over the long run. Sure everything will be nice and slippery but In the long run the lube you use may catch up to the sleeves which may hinder full rotation, again this Is my opinion on the subject. Even still, the sleeves rotate beautilfully w/o them anyway.

 

I agree. I just slid them back in dry.

I was joking about the KY. I guess it wasn't very funny.

 

Thats what prompted me to write a reply. I though KY Jelly?

 

Actually the radius in the sleeves only results in a 1% increase in airflow through the ports. This must be very surprising to hear. The reason for this is because of the actuator rods that control the sleeves. If these were removed with the radiused sleeves installed then there are definite power increases. Those rods are a huge restriction. If you are not going to remove the rods then it is a waste of time to wire the ports open. There is a power increase with the radiused sleeves and the rods just not much. Your butt dyno is exagerating to your brain. Take those rods out and your butt dyno will love you!

 

rotarygod, Im not sure I quite understand you???? Are you saying to remove the sleeves and the rod actuators?

 

No. Definitely leave the radiused sleeves in. Just glue them open. Remove the actuator rods so they are no longer blocking airflow. Its amazing how much more flow there is without them in the way. The gain is quite large on the topend. With the radiused sleeves installed and the actuation system still in place the gains are very small.

 

Have you actually done this to your car??? Ive never heard of anyone doing this before....

 

Yup did it! Those rods are more of an airflow restriction than the lousy shape at the end of the sleeve. I went one step farther on mine. I removed the actuators and rods. Obviously I glued in some radiused sleeves in the open position. The rod on the sleeve that crosses the port needs to be removed as well. There are 2 rods total per side. The one from the actuators to the sleeves and the ones in the sleeves that are moved by the other rods. When all of this is gone there is nothing in the way to kill airflow. After removing everything there were 2 holes that had to be epoxied. These were the holes where the actuator rods used to be. I initially plugged them with Devcon plastic steel epoxy. Works great just make sure that the surface is clean.

Later on I drilled this epoxy back out and modified it. I ended up installing my secondary fuel injectors here! They point straight at the engine right down the top port. Awesome upgrade. I ended up using the T-II injectors in this location. The old spot on the intake manifold where the secondary injectors used to be was filled in with a tig welder. I then ground the inside shape where the injector once went smooth. No more problem with airflow here! That car pulled very hard above 4000 RPM. Wasn't even close to stock. That was with an S4 manifold. I can probably find a picture of the new fuel injector location if anyone wants to see it. I got the idea from rotary airplane guys. They are very creative.

 

Thats an Interesting concept you have. Post some pics In regards to your set up.

 

Wheres the freaken pics?

 

Sorry I've been busy lately. I can't find the old pics of my setup and it no longer exists. I am working on converting an '88 lower to be used with low mounted injectors so I'll get some building/chopping/improvising pics up this weekend. That is if my friend doesn't con me into going to Dallas tonight. I'm also modifying a VDI upper as well. That will wait until next week though.