just noticed something, the lever for the port closer to the firewall is much harder to move than the one on the engine further from the firewall...

 

well go ahead and take some penetrating fluid (pb blaster, liquid wrench, wd40, whatever) and lube up both plungers, it wont hurt them. do it until you can open them by blowing in them... then set it all back up, get someone to hold the throttle down at 4000 RPM, and jumper the solenoids with 12V again (remember the 6pi is top left if looked at from the drivers side fender).if they dont open..... then we can go to number 10

 

ok, ill try it when my bro gets home later today and let you know how it goes.

 

oh hey just out of curiosity... the little arms that the acuators connect to, they rotate up and down as the actuator moves, this in turn spins the shaft and the intake sleeves inside the engine. Have you tried rotating them by hand yet? just wiggle them up and down to see if they're stuck?

 

Yeah, good call. I had just gotten a stage 3 clutch put in, and one of the guys at the tranny shop said he had one and for some reason it seemed like my car lost some power just as his did, I immediately assumed the actuators, the one closest to the firewall is stuck ;-) just turn it with your hand assembled, if it doesn't move, time to get new ones, or a parts car... I swear the best thing i did was get a parts car..

 

hey, yeah the like i was saying before one of the arms the actuator is attached to closest tot he firewall sucks. I tested it like you said and the port furthest from the firewall opens and the one closest to the firewall doesn't. when i tried moving it by hand it took alot of effort...

so what do i do to fix that?

 

well if the one furthest from the firewall moves it should have opened when you supplied 12V with the engine running (and like I said you may have to rev the engine to get em to open.) Did it?

 

yeah, the furthest one opens, the closet one the acutator works but the little arm wont budge so the actuator moves down and the arm doesn't move...

 

alright so the intake sleeve closest to the firewall (rear housing) is seized. at least it's not both :P

give it a final wiggle. yank it around and try to get it loose. If you can't then we've got to start removing stuff, which isnt much fun if you've never done it (and it's going back together stock)

 

:-/ i fear that i have given it many wiggles and that sadly i must start removing stuff :-/.

but im up to it haha, i can uninstall and reinstall actuators in 2 mins now so hopefully i can do the next step as quickly if the other side siezes sometime haha :-/

so whats the next step?

 

OK, I'm flip-flopping between posts and archives, and when you said to jumper, you were talking about the brown solenoid near the shock tower on the driver's side, correct? Also, I have looked at manual, and what are the two seperate plugs on each side of the actuators? Now I'm really confused!

PEACE THE DOG

 

By jumper I meant to remove the plug (brown in this case) from the solenoid, and supply one pin with 12v, and ground the other. This will trick the solenoid into thinking the ECU has given it the signal to open the ports, and the ports SHOULD open (you may have to up the RPMS a bit to supply sufficient pressure)

 

so whats the next step?

(i wont be able to work on the car again till next saturday :-/, going back to school)

 

ive got a couple projects to do tonight too. maybe someone else has typed it up before and can paste it on here?

 

????
what should i try and search for, ill see if i can find it

 

you can check the fsm, found in the FAQ. check the engine section, it should break it down.

 

hey, i got everything off and the assembly that the acuator attaches is too is defenitely the problem, where can i get a new or should i just go to the junkyard?

 

hey, i fixed it put it all back together and now it revs to 3000rpms stays for 20 seconds and then dies after that any ideas? i think its a vacum lines mixed up any idea which ones?

thanks a million!