ok so before i take ruin something or buy stuff i dont need i wanna see what you guys think, car hesitates at 6800rpms, no power gain at 5500rpms, i tested the solenoid blew through the shot tube and felt air come out the filter, so im guessing that its the acutator? ive been looking at the fsm for about an hour and messing around with stuff to try and figure it out, also the car is idling at 1200-1500 (stays at 1500 for 3 seconds drops to 1200 then goes back up....) but for now im most concered with fixing those ports...

 

Go to the solenoid. PUll both hose off. Connect them together with a plastic vac tube. Turn the engine on. The auxillary ports should close.

Or idle the engine. Pull the plug off the solenoid. Jumper a ground and a 12v source to the two pins on the solenoid. The auxillary ports should open.

 

ummmmmm kinda lost me and i dont see how that fixes it?

Jumper a ground and a 12v source to the two pins on the solenoid (plug?)

ill try it in the morning, that would just make me run with all 6 port open rite? what should i do to fix it?

 

Not the electrical plug on the harness. The JACK on the solenoid. I'd suggest you just remove the two hose to the solneoid and couple them together and forget about jumpering a ground a 12vdc to the solenoid.

With the engine idling you should see the actuators......actuate to the full open position.

I assume you still have a working airpump.

I also assume your trying to see if the actuators move from close to open. The above is how you can visually see it they are working on a series five (series four need not read this post). If they don't move open with the two hose coupled together, then rev the engine a touch and see if they will then open.

If they don't open/close, then fix them where they will open/shut.

 

you can be pretty confident that the ECU will be able to supply the 12v signal to the solenoid at the correct time. By jumpering the solenoid with the engine running, you can ensure that the ports work correctly when that signal is received.

If the ports don't open, it basically means the previous owners didn't reach 3800 RPM nearly often enough, and either the actuators are seized, or the sleeves inside the block of the engine are stuck with carbon.

You can start by removing the 2 10mm bolts that hold on ecah actuator. If they dont pull open quite easily (they should open simply from you blowing into their vacuum line) give the m a good helping of pentrating fluid and grab the actuator plunger with some vice grips and force them open (pulling up, I believe you've got an S5). Keep playing with them untilt ehy move freely.

If the actuators move freely the problem lies internally, and you'll have to remove the TB, dynamic chamber, UIM and LIM to fix it.


edit: like was said before, when you jumper the 12v to the solenoid, you may have to rev then engine a bit to get the required air pressure from the pump to open them.

 

yeah its a s5 im trying to figure out everything your saying. the car has 83k miles but the ports did work up until recently.

 

well go through what i said... should break it down pretty quick. feel free to ask any questions, I should be checking back on this thread for the enxt couple hours

 

ok so pull the two hoses together, run it and see if it works? edited*

or

put a 12v and a ground see if it works?

then go from there? (i think i could do most of the rest on my own... just report back my results and see what you think from there... )

sorry for being slow :-/ but i really appreciate the help! thanks!!!!

 

i dont have a garage so i can't work on it until morning :-/...

 

forget the two hoses... its the same idea, but only tests the ports themselves.

supplying the solenoid with 12V not only checks the operation of the ports, but the operation of the solenoid aswell.

Here's what I'm going to recomend:

1. Remove the brown connector fro the 6pi solenoid. Crimp a couple female spade connectors on to 2 wires, and attatch them to the solenoid (it doesnt matter which pin the 12v or ground goes on to, either way works).
2. Start the engine, and let it idle.
3. Ground one wire, and supply the other with 12v
4. Check the operation of the two actuators. If the plungers extend, congrats! Your 6pi system is operational... If not, continue on.

5. First check the operation of the solenoid. Remove the vacuum line completely opposite the solenoid air filter (the end vacuum nipple, not the side one.
6. Jumper the solenoid in the same way, and listen for a click, and feel for a stream of pressurized air coming from the nipple you just removed the vacuum line from.
7. If you feel air, the solenoid is operation and the problem lies within the actuators themselves, or the sleeves within the engine; continue on below... If you don't feel air, or hear a click, replace the solenoid and go from there.

8. Remove the two actuators via the removal of the 2 10mm bolts. Pull up on the plungers.
9. If the plungers extend easily, the problem lies within the engine, the sleeves are likely carbon locked, continue below. If they don't extend easily, give the plungers a good soaking of penetrating fluid, and continue to play with the acutator plungers until they can be pulled up easily, and return to the down position smoothly. Reinstall the actuators and refer back to step #1 to test the system at all.

10. If none of the above works, you're going to have to remove all the manifolds to get at the sleeves within the engine... Try everything above first. I don't to have to write all that out right now :P

 

wow thanks you rock!!!!!
hopefully nothing majors wrong if so o well christmas break is comming up haha ill have plenty of time to work on it haha

 

haha another stupid question :-/ sorry but how do i tell if the actuator is opening and the actuator im looking at is the one in the intake manifold section rite.

also i hooked up the solenoid with some jumpers and it opened i felt air comming out once i connected the wires.

 

There should be two actuators. Feel air????? That does not sound right. It almost sounds like your looking at the VDI when you mention ONE.

Download the series five FSM. Just the fuel section. Put it on your hard drive. View.

The actuators are to the left and the right of the Air Control Valve. See page FI-43 of the free, online Factory Service Manual. Go the FAQ on this site for the URL.

 

I've got a picture or 2 of an s4 actuator somewhere on the ftp server.. I'll find em... they're gonna be huge though :P

edit: k here ya go. These are from my s4, but they look similar and are positioned in the same way as the s5 actuators





There is a similar system near the intake manifolds (like you are talking about). This is the VDI (variable dynamix intake) system, don't worry about that right now :P

The TWO 6pi actuators are on the passenger side, directly above the exhaust header. They're on either side of the ACV.

 

air pump feeds air into the 6pi solenoid, normally its realeased through the air filter on the bottom. when 12v is supplied air stop goings through the filter, and begins to pass out the top nipple. if the vacuum line is removed you SHOULD be able to "feel air" when 12v is supplied.

 

I assumed he meant he felt air when he put pwr and a ground to the solenoid.

 

hey thanks , fsm confused me on the actuator haha.

thanks!!! im pretty clear on whats going on now, haha took me a while but ill use my new info to try and go furthure tomorrow hopefully i can get more done than i did today.

and yes i felt air when i put power and ground to the solenoid.

THANKS you so much so far

 

Air blowing when power and a gnd is applied is *** backwards IMHO. If you mean air blowing at the solenoid out the tiny filter on the solenoid.

There are two ways the solenoid can be configured. It sounds like yours is configured wrong. Or the plug is on the wrong solenoid.

 

6pi solenoid has the brown sticker rite? its blowing out the side with the shorter hose that comes off the top (vertically).

 

Oh. I see. You have a hose off and it's blowing out the nipple the hose goes on. That's ok. If that hose was connected up, then the actuators should have move outwards from the actuator body.

 

ill be going over these steps tomorrow hopefully not step #10

4. Check the operation of the two actuators. If the plungers extend, congrats! Your 6pi system is operational... If not, continue on.

5. First check the operation of the solenoid. Remove the vacuum line completely opposite the solenoid air filter (the end vacuum nipple, not the side one.
6. Jumper the solenoid in the same way, and listen for a click, and feel for a stream of pressurized air coming from the nipple you just removed the vacuum line from.
7. If you feel air, the solenoid is operation and the problem lies within the actuators themselves, or the sleeves within the engine; continue on below... If you don't feel air, or hear a click, replace the solenoid and go from there.

8. Remove the two actuators via the removal of the 2 10mm bolts. Pull up on the plungers.
9. If the plungers extend easily, the problem lies within the engine, the sleeves are likely carbon locked, continue below. If they don't extend easily, give the plungers a good soaking of penetrating fluid, and continue to play with the acutator plungers until they can be pulled up easily, and return to the down position smoothly. Reinstall the actuators and refer back to step #1 to test the system at all.

 

How often do you redline your car?
Not activating the 6pi system regularily usually leads to carbon buildup on the sleeves, locking them in place...

Loosening the sleeves (step number 10) really isn't too difficult. With all my emissions and junk removed I can stip the TB, dynamic chamber, UIM and LIM in about 90 seconds. will certainly take awhile longer stock though! We'll run it through with you prety quick if it comes to that...

 

i red line once in a while 2-5 times a week id guess... i've only had the car for like 4 months, i have a second car too and i honestly dont drive that much so ive put like 1000-1500 miles on it in 4 months if that has anything to do with it?

 

ok i got both actuators off and they come up pretty easy i can do it with my fingers one seemed a little weird kinda weak when i pulled it up the other was a little more stiff but both pretty easy to pull up...

so onto step #10 i guess... also, to make sure solenoid is working correctly the veritcal little pipe is blowing out air and the horizontal one is sucking in.

 

ok I'm trying to figure all this out too, mine on my s5 don't work either.