Dillon

I have a 86 GXL. Will my 5th and 6th port open with a glasspack for backpressure?

J-Rat

iTrader: (2)

Yes..

Sideways7

iTrader: (7)

As long as there is still a backpressure pickup tube. If the glasspack is replacing the cats, then no it wont open, but you should be ok if its replacing the mufflers. It won't last, though.

Icemark

but the glass pack will only last about a week (if you are lucky) on a non turbo before the guts have melted out and you don't have any muffling.

NZConvertible

Ann reducing exhasut backpressure causes the auxiliary ports to open later, reducing mid-range performance. IMO with any S4 NA exhuast mods you should look at converting to an air pump, solenoid valve and rpm switch set-up.

ExSr20kidF2

I have a glass-packed N1 exhaust with no cats, the glass packing gets thrown out on fire and melts at about 6 grand. looks sweet but i doubt ull be opening the ports. mine are wired open. good luck

Dillon

Well whats a cheap muffler or silencer that will open the ports without losing alot of sound

anewconvert

iTrader: (1)

the problem isnt really opening the ports, its that most mufflers will fall apart under the [ressure and heat from a rotary engine. There is a reason the RB muffler is so expensive...


BC

Dillon

Is there a way to wire up a toggle switch to open and close the 5th and 6th port? If so anybody have some Ideas about how to do this?

Icemark

sure you could use a aftermarket air pump, relay and switch, but it would be pretty dumb to do.

After all you only want the aux ports to be open at 3800 and above, and to close and be closed at under 3800... so I doubt that you could (using a toggle switch) switch the ports open and closed while driving anywhere close to that.

If you want the ports to work correctly, you will need to either re-plumb the system, or use a RPM switch and switching solenoid.

This has been covered quite a few times. You may wish to use the search feature or the archive section to find the different ways to do this.

jgrts20

I used a RPM switch and converted to electric air pump to run my aux ports.

Black Knight RX7 FC3S

iTrader: (7)

if you just kept the ports opened all the time, you only lose low end torque??
How about fuel consumption or is there any other things that comes from wiring it open.

crazyasu

just zip tie them open...the low-end loss is very minor...u don't even notice it...if you've had your cats removed...you've lost a majority of your low-end anyways...Rx7 are all about top-end...if your aux ports don't open your missing out on the extra hp in the higher rmp's...I think it's apox..25hp or something like that...

jgrts20

Yea you do notice it.

Icemark

Yeah, I guess if you don't miss 15-20 HP at under 4000 (because that is what was found when someone dyno'd them first working and then wired open).

The last place you want to loose power and torque on a street car is below 4000 RPM.

Sideways7

iTrader: (7)

There is a major loss of power with them wired open. I used to have the wired open (like that when I bought the car) and it was totally gutless down low. Now, even with a large streetport, I have quite good low-end power.

BigPimpin'

iTrader: (5)

Mine were wired open when I got my car and gas mileage SUCKED! Power was down as well. Plus the bitch failed emissions, put the actuators back on, tuned her up and passed with flying colors!

SirCygnus

iTrader: (1)

wow.... mine experience was totally opposit.

Dillon

Would I have to change anything other than the air pump to make the ports open with a air pump? How much would a new air pump cost?

KeeganP

You don't change the airpump, you just run some of its output, i.e. pressurized air, out to the actuators with a solenoid in the flow path to turn them on and off. Its not too complicated and surely it has been covered thoroughly in this (and the other) forums. Search for it.

As far as what everyone said about the low end power loss, I agree, and I'm surprised to see so many say so, it used to be the overwhelming majority wired them open. I always thought mine weren't opening at all due to a substantial high end power loss, then I tore my motor down to the block and realized their were no sleeves for the actuators to turn. So they were completely open. To cut the story short, now that I have sleeves (Pineapple Racing, very nice, I like them) I still had to fix the high end power problem, but my low end was quite noticably improved. I'd say 10 HP or so below 3800 RPM.

Icemark

probably because yours were stuck closed

Dillon

Whats the full procedure for switching to a air pump port activator.

Black Knight RX7 FC3S

iTrader: (7)

Seeing as how if I wired my ports open I would lose lowend power, I decided to go with the Air pump route.

I got all the things at The Home Depot in the plumbing section
Pictures are a little blurry since I used my phone to take the pics.

I used all 1/4 fittings with compression fittings also.
I dont know if 1/4 fittings are too small, but im going to try anyways.

Coldfire has directions in the archives
https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-gen-archive-72/how-air-pump-auxilary-port-activation-330310/
Rotaryresurrection has info on it on his page
http://www.rotaryresurrection.com/2n...actuation.html

Dillon

What would the difficulty level be for this swap from 1-10

Rx7TyreBurna

iTrader: (1)

I would get the summitracing RPM switch and use a vacuum silanoid...(SP)

I just ordered a lumbar pump and the switch. Anywho, good luck with them. I don't suggest removing them. It is a hassle to throw them back in.

All the gaskets etc are going to cost me $150+