I have an 88se that I am upgrading to 5-lug. I bought an 87 Turbo II and have pulled the front and rear suspension. The question is, do I need to swap master cylinder and brake booster also? The master cylinder in the 88se is brand new so I don't want to swap it if I don't have too.

The donor car goes to the recyclers on Monday.

thanks

 

IIRC, and someone correct me if I'm wrong, but the turbo master cylinder is slightly larger. I suppose I could go outside and compare them...

But if you have a new one for the n/a, IMO just use that.

Also, PM'd you

 

Honestly you can get away with using the 4 lug master and Booster.
I Did my swap a couple years back,and I haven't got around to switching to the Bigger booster yet.It stops the car just fine.
The TII booster is a slight bit different than the Regular 5 lug booster as the Vacuum line location is in a different position than that of the 5 lug booster.You can get around that by making a Extension of the tubing to Compensate for that.(that is the line that goes from the Booster to the hard line on the Firewall).
You will see what I mean by comparing the Booster's vacuum tube location, with the Booster that you have on now.
The 4 piston calipers will need those two little Steel lines and the Flex lines off the TII to go on your car too...YOU CAN put the $ pot caliper directly onto the flex line Though.you will just need a couple extra Crush washers on the Banjo bolt,as it will bottom out.
..so,,That is all i can remember for now,I hope that gave you a bit of insight into what you are doing.Cheers STYX!~

 

You don't have to swap over to the Tii master although I would remove it off your donor car and store it in case you wish to install it at a later date. The smaller diameter piston in the base master will give you more pedal travel compared to the Tii unit but overall braking performance will remain relatively unchanged. It really comes down to how you like your brakes to feel, bigger master = firmer pedal.

 

So what's the trick with the brake line ?? Because I need to know how to set up my lines without the small hard line.. Thoose were broken when I got my TII brakes.

I'm in the same boat 88 na base model.

 

You need the factory hardline (or just make your own) that goes from the caliper to a mounting tab on the back of the strut. The flex line connects to it at this point.

 

Another question, I pulled the struts and was wondering if there was a difference there between SE and turboII. Spring rates, ride height etc. Are there any other parts I should grab? I already pulled the LSD diff. Donor car is not a convertible.

 

Front strut bar will be beefier on the turbo, and I believe the struts/springs will be better as well. But the struts/springs will also depend on mileage.

 

either get the flex line and the small hard line from the dealer(where ever you get parts)
OR try this.Since the 4 lug flex line attaches to the 4 pot caliper Direct,you can do the Same with the TII caliper.BUT you are gonna notice that the bolt will Not tighten up all the way.(it will bottom out) you need to Double up the crushwashers on the Flex line,where the hose fitting goes into the caliper
just double up the Crush washers before yo put the Hose end into the caliper.
IF the Hose is STILL on teh car and you don't feel like Lossening the Hose( may break a steel line) then you can Turn the caliper onto the Hose fitting.(like the How many men does it take to put in a light bulb Joke!)
It will Work OK,but I do not endorse the way it is done.It is OK in a Pinch,but it is not a good permanemt solution.
I DID this ON my car and I am runnig it now FOUR years.Still OK..I just keep adding parts on the car and haven't gotten around to doing the Steel braided brake hose swap!

 

I just did this swap 3wks ago. I did the 929 Master cylinder and booster. It cost $60 and more about 3hr of solid work to do the swap but it was well worth it.

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