2nd Generation Specific (1986-1992) 1986-1992 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections.

5/6 port ?

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Old Mar 22, 2008 | 06:26 PM
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5/6 port ?

So I removed my emissions, and will be installing a full racing beat exhaust soon and so I did the 5/6th actuator removal too. Now I still have my sleeves with the pineapple inserts, I would like to know how to keep them from rotating in the block as the actuator rod was removed. And also which way should the opening be, I'm assuming up but can't remember as my intake has been off for a while.
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Old Mar 22, 2008 | 07:53 PM
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Why would you remove the actuators & rods, but still keep the sleeves? There would be no way to hold or turn the sleeves. Are you going to keep the sleeves in the open position all the time? I believe most people would just remove the sleeves if the idea is to keep your ports open at all times. Do you think you will get more output with pineapple sleeves than with no sleeves at all? Did you consider keeping your port sleeves functional? You will lose low end power if the sleeves don't close the ports at low (under 3800) RPM's. You can have functional ports with a Racing Beat exhaust.

Ramses666
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Old Mar 22, 2008 | 08:45 PM
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Originally Posted by nvrdone
Now I still have my sleeves with the pineapple inserts, I would like to know how to keep them from rotating in the block as the actuator rod was removed.
This is what Rob at Pineapple wrote to me one time when I was inquiring about removing my sleeves or using inserts....

"Use the sleeves w/ our inserts. If allowed, when the motor is removed, consider removing the cross pin from the sleeve and fix it into position by drilling through the plate from the outside. I use a M6 x 1.00 allen set screw. I drill through the plate, sleeve, into the insert. Then install the set screw w/ loctite or similar. Then peen the screw. You can now remove the "pickle fork" from the intake air flow."

However, this was for a race car that never got below 5k RPM. On a street car, you want your 5th/6th ports to work properly. So, put the forks back in and make the actuators work.
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Old Mar 22, 2008 | 09:36 PM
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I don't mind not having my fifth and sixth ports i do live on flat land tho.
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Old Mar 22, 2008 | 10:50 PM
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Yea thanks for help.. not, I don't really care for if I "should keep them working" cuz the loss of low end power is not enough to affect driveability at all. I had them working properly on my first 7 and then removed them and guess what, it drove the same way, I just want the answer to my questions. Thanks for the screw in idea though but I can't really do that as motor is together and running. Would JB weld or red loctite work, pineapple says to use red loctite for there inserts so would it hold the sleeves as well?
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Old Mar 22, 2008 | 10:52 PM
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Originally Posted by ramses666
Why would you remove the actuators & rods, but still keep the sleeves? There would be no way to hold or turn the sleeves.
Ramses666
The reason for the question..
thanks for restating it.
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Old Mar 22, 2008 | 11:39 PM
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Originally Posted by nvrdone
Yea thanks for help.. not, I don't really care for if I "should keep them working" cuz the loss of low end power is not enough to affect driveability at all. I had them working properly on my first 7 and then removed them and guess what, it drove the same way, I just want the answer to my questions.

Statements like that will get people eager to help you out.. not
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Old Mar 22, 2008 | 11:41 PM
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Well? Why remove the actuators & rods & screw the pineapple sleaves into the open position? You will lose low end power. I suppose if you removed the rod on the sleeves & the forked actuator rods that you "might" gain something on the high end. Is this what you are trying to achieve? I doubt that you could possibly notice any difference in the high end with a properly operating port activation method for a STREETABLE rx-7. however you would definetly notice the loss in the low end where a car is driven iin somewhat normal conditions. Therefore, it would seem that having operational port controls would give the best benefit for all-around performance - that''s why they are there in the first place. I'm just having trouble understanding why you are doing what it seems that you are trying to accomplish. Can you elaborate further?

Ramses666
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Old Mar 23, 2008 | 10:09 AM
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I removed the journals that support the actuator rods trying to minimize any obstructions in the airflow path. I also removed the pins in the sleeves themselves. I don't know if I will see any gains but I figured it can't hurt.
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Old Mar 24, 2008 | 06:49 PM
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OK... well you seem to know what you want... just improvise something to keep them from rotating from the open position. Maybe a set screw as mentioned above, or peening with a punch or JB weld or a tack weld. You are pretty much on your own on this. Sorry I'm not much help.

Ramses666
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Old Mar 24, 2008 | 07:02 PM
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Yea, I'm going to thread the lower(thicker) part of the sleeve and run a small allen screw through as a set screw.
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Old Mar 24, 2008 | 07:23 PM
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There you go.... I'm not sure what is wrong around here... seems like everyone that actually helps us ignorant retards is out on vacation or something.... I'm the least likely person to actually know anything - I just have to get along on my own lately... Good Luck

Ramses666
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Old Mar 24, 2008 | 08:33 PM
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Usually I just spend a day searching, but couldn't find anything about this.
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Old Mar 28, 2008 | 12:20 PM
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not exactly sure what you mean but if i get you right i think you can just drill a hole through the sleeve and into the motor and install a set screw then grind the head away
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