40psi compression...really bad??
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40psi compression...really bad??
Hi, this is with my continuing problem to my no spark from leading coil. Sorry for the new post, but I guess this is another topic within itself. Hailers, I did get 5v from the pressure sensor from the Brown/white wire. I use a conventional piston compression tester. In the FSM, it says that I can use it, but it will only read the highest reading from the 3 chambers. I did, cranked for about 10 secs, and only got 40psi. Now, I believe this engine has never been rebuilt, and it has about 130,000 miles on it. Could this be the culprit? I guess I can rebuild...how much would I be looking at approximatly? It's an 1986 gxl...thanks
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nope hasn't started since I bought it. Quick question though...what exactly am I looking for? As in seals I would need...I'm trying to price out a rebuild in autozone..what are the seals named?
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haha autozone? Yuor looking at the wrong place.
That should help you. http://www.mazdatrix.com/engnumna.htm
That should help you. http://www.mazdatrix.com/engnumna.htm
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I'm looking at this. Engine gasket set.
Part Name Description Part Number Price
GASKET SET RX7 86-88 NON TURBO 10-2710-8DF1 $161.78
I guess it's not to bad. Labor will be done by my dad, so I can cut that out of the cost. 1k for a rebuild? Where does the rest of the money come from? I thought it was just gaskets/seals?
Part Name Description Part Number Price
GASKET SET RX7 86-88 NON TURBO 10-2710-8DF1 $161.78
I guess it's not to bad. Labor will be done by my dad, so I can cut that out of the cost. 1k for a rebuild? Where does the rest of the money come from? I thought it was just gaskets/seals?
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That just gaskets.. Here is a complete kit for the rotors from mazdatrix.
http://www.mazdatrix.com/getprice.as...MZTX-13-ROTORL
http://www.mazdatrix.com/getprice.as...MZTX-13-ROTORL
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well.... I had a talk with my dad. Seeing as how I'm going to college this year, I can't afford that much right of the bat. Turns out I'm etheir going to junk the car or part it out, and get like a 240 or something. Sad to give my rotary away..but it's just to expensive
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Originally posted by xXHybridXx
well.... I had a talk with my dad. Seeing as how I'm going to college this year, I can't afford that much right of the bat. Turns out I'm etheir going to junk the car or part it out, and get like a 240 or something. Sad to give my rotary away..but it's just to expensive
well.... I had a talk with my dad. Seeing as how I'm going to college this year, I can't afford that much right of the bat. Turns out I'm etheir going to junk the car or part it out, and get like a 240 or something. Sad to give my rotary away..but it's just to expensive
but hey, it's your money.
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Oh no I can't, but I can pay monthly payments. I can't jump ship and get 1k (which I need all together to build the rebuild), and I need a car asap to get around. Oh and a friend is selling her 96 240 for 1200, nothing's wrong with it exept that it's an auto, and she doesnt like that..so i'm looking at it right now.
#14
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Did you do the test with the checkvalve in or out?
Because on some testers, if you do the test with the valve out, it will only read about 35-45 psi, even on a perfect engine!!!! It that case you want to look for 3 (even) bounces.
Once you have confirmed the even bounces, then you can do the overall compression with the checkvalve in...
Because on some testers, if you do the test with the valve out, it will only read about 35-45 psi, even on a perfect engine!!!! It that case you want to look for 3 (even) bounces.
Once you have confirmed the even bounces, then you can do the overall compression with the checkvalve in...
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