3800 RPM hesitation?
08-31-09, 05:54 AM
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3800 RPM hesitation?
i've been doing some reading about the 3800 RPM hesitation, and i've been having the side effects of it. but the problem i have is why it doesnt cut out in 1st or 2nd gear, in my 7 it only does it in 3rd and 4th. does it happen in all gears or does it vary?
08-31-09, 07:38 AM
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It can be intermittent.
It will most likely do it with higher load on the engine (IE Higher gears) which will call on the secondary injectors.
I had this problem on a 1988 GTU where it'd do it only if I accelerated hard. If I went easy on the throttle and S-L-O-W-L-Y put it down, it'd go just fine.
Found the whole bolt loose.
The ground is easy to find. On your intake manifold, near the oil filler cap is the IACV motor. It's about the size of a couple D batteries end to end. Slightly to the rear is another solenoid valve that has a bracket to the intake and another bracket that goes down to the rear rotor housing. The bolt that holds the bracket to the rotor housing also holds down a wire.
Spray that wire with brake parts cleaner and see what its condition looks like.
It will most likely do it with higher load on the engine (IE Higher gears) which will call on the secondary injectors.
I had this problem on a 1988 GTU where it'd do it only if I accelerated hard. If I went easy on the throttle and S-L-O-W-L-Y put it down, it'd go just fine.
Found the whole bolt loose.
The ground is easy to find. On your intake manifold, near the oil filler cap is the IACV motor. It's about the size of a couple D batteries end to end. Slightly to the rear is another solenoid valve that has a bracket to the intake and another bracket that goes down to the rear rotor housing. The bolt that holds the bracket to the rotor housing also holds down a wire.
Spray that wire with brake parts cleaner and see what its condition looks like.
08-31-09, 03:55 PM
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I completely eliminated my 3800 rpm hesistation (after years of having pro mechanics chase it unsuccessfully) by:
1. Setting the idle speed per FSM procedure
2. Setting the idle mixture per FSM procedure
3. Checking the TPS for min and max ohm readings and dropouts with an anlog ohmmeter (values were correct per FSM, and dropouts there were none) and then
4. Setting the TPS to *exactly* 1k ohm at the idle throttle position
No guarantee that this is the solution for all cars, but if not it might eliminate some possibilities.
1. Setting the idle speed per FSM procedure
2. Setting the idle mixture per FSM procedure
3. Checking the TPS for min and max ohm readings and dropouts with an anlog ohmmeter (values were correct per FSM, and dropouts there were none) and then
4. Setting the TPS to *exactly* 1k ohm at the idle throttle position
No guarantee that this is the solution for all cars, but if not it might eliminate some possibilities.
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