FC_DRIFTER

Does anyone have a picture where to ground the motor to the frame? People have told me to ground from the top of the motor, but I'm still confused. I've got the dreaded 3800 rpm lag and its starting to get really annoying. My car is a 86 NA w/ no mods other than having the emissions removed. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

cwsttu

look at where my Window wiper motor is in the upper left hand corner of the bay... directly to the right of it there is a wire attatched to the firewall... that is the ground... if you follow it it goes to one of the bolts that hold the tranny to the engine

http://www.putfile.com/gallery/Chris/uim_off_2?full=1

FC_DRIFTER

Ok, thanks. I was told just to ground it to a random bolt on the engine. I tried grounding to a block off plate bolt but it didnt seem to fix the problem. Should I ground the same place you did on the tranny/engine bolts? Does it matter the gauge of the wire used?

cwsttu

you can go as big as you want ... i would use 6 guage or so on mine.... and make sure the connection you are grounding it too is clean.. if oil or tar or something is there it will not fix the problem... i used the bolt next to the tranny bolt when i redid mine and it helped me out a bit

fastrotaries

make sure you have the ground that CWSTTU mentioned grounded. I added one from my block on the Spark plug side ( just about the R1 Trailing plug) to the fuse block on the drivers side strut tower. I used High quality stereo cable. Um i think it was like 6 gauge or 8. It helped the idle, and seemed to rev a little smoother.

WAYNE88N/A

If you removed emissions, then you should know where the rear rotor housing ground is, because you had to have pulled the UIM to get to everything. This is the ECU's ground, basically, and when the alternator is doing its thing while running, this ground gets its "power" from the alt body's ground, not the firewall ground. In other words, if your problem actually is ground related (it could also be an old, heat-stressed harness, or a bad solder joint in the harness near the ECU), beefing up the firewall-tranny bonding wire, while certainly not hurting anything, won't solve the ECU's ground circuit pathways. Locating and "cleaning up" the rear rotor housing ground might help, or perhaps running a bonding jumper (most people would call this a ground wire) from the alt's mounting hardware to the rear rotor housing. This provides a seperate electrical pathway "around" the housing-to-housing contacts and hardware, which can get dirty/ nonconductive with age...

An easy test for verification of ECU ground serviceability is to read each ground pin at the ECU to chassis ground (near the ECU) with a meter set to resistance. If you're getting close to 0 ohms at each pin, it's not that ground that's giving you problems.

Have you tested the TPS for proper adjustment?

FC_DRIFTER

I bought the engine w/ the emissions removed. I didn't personally remove them. I swapped the motor in myself. I will need to pull it into the garage some time soon and check over each ground and make sure all are in place. Thanks for the information you all have given me and I'll be sure to update you on the process.

rs_1101

i just have my SAFC blow a sh*tload of fuel at 3800... no hesitation anymore...

DerangedHermit

Take note kiddies because this is the RIGHT way to do it...............

rs_1101

i really think an safc should like.. come with the car when you buy it. its pretty much necessary.

motto

Okay, I give up...What is SAFC and CWSTTU mean? I've never heard of these..

DEZERTE

SAFC2 = Super Air flow converter (the later model..hence the 2)
Type in SAFC2 on ebay and you'll find them.
I dont know what CWSTTU means...its just the guys handle

cwsttu

CWS = MY INTITIALS.... and i used to go to texas tech... well when i made my account here many years ago i went to school there

rs_1101

what an safc2? the best 300$ youll ever spend..

RETed

Uh, not really...


-Ted

DerangedHermit

It was sarcasm Ted...

Digi7ech

iTrader: (1)

The right way would be to get an aftermarket EMS so you can get rid of the whole hesitation all together and specifically set your secondaries to come on when needed.

If your keeping the stock ECU then there are only theories as to what is going on.
I have not seen any definitive answers as to why it does this. Although is is commonly thought that the ECU can't handle the secondaries kicking on like that and grounding is the problem point.

In another thread we were trying to think of what could cause the problem and how we could correct it.

One idea was that the secondaries coming on was too much draw on the stock power wires which caused a momentary drop for the injectors.

We were thinking that adding an alternate power source for the secondaries or increasing the time/rpm span that injectors turn on could help defeat this.

I'm seriously thinking of adding in a second ignition power source for the secondaries to test this theory. I mean technically all i would be doing is adding a secondary power supply so the primaries power line does not see any extra load.

The ground is the variable in the circuit so it shouldn't be too complicated.

RETed

Crap, I hate not seeing those invisible smileys...


-Ted

DerangedHermit

Yeah, they're a bitch aren't they.

hondahater

iTrader: (2)

I was wondering if you where being sarcastic or not I thought that was pretty bad advice, lol make sure and do this right after you say something sarcastic

DerangedHermit

Eh. If people actually followed that then, well..., a little hope in humanity dies within my heart.



Oh, and here ya go

SureShot

Me too... +28 @ 3K, +30 @ 4K using an FD pump.