saltlakebay

I agree with the guys who said to get a stand alone engine management system. i.e., Haltech, Motech, etc..

If your going to stay under 300 the stock computer with a fuel controller should be ok. Above 300 a lot of people say its safer to start with a management system.

From there, its just a matter of money

West TX RX-7

Bridgeport, FMIC, t3/t4 hibryd, Piping and fittings, stock primaries, 1200 + secondaries, Haltech E6k (you want this!!), Walbro Fuel pump, fuel rail, BOV, Wastegate, electric fan, downpipe, midpipe, catback. Should get you 350rwhp with no trouble. estimated cost bought new and you doing the work is about 4k. You'll want to get it tuned by someone who knows what they are doing. Tuning can make ALL the difference.

Nobody ever said it was cheap to go fast.

You could probably get the parts used for around 2.5k

Not bad for 350+rwhp with an 81 cubic inch engine.

Oh, theres a brand new Haltech e6k on ebay for 995.00, good price

Electrikhead

1revin7 clever username, and thx btw

Trav

Fast, Cheap, Reliable <-- Pick 2 because that's all you get...

Electrikhead

tee hee trav, just out of curiosity, is anyone going to attend the www.mazdarevitup.com if it is near you ?

Turblown

iTrader: (12)

Hey I might try that, how much is it? 10minutes from my crib too.... Would they let me drive my car there ..

rx7_ragtop

See this remark?

Quote:

the reason, why i dont have some un-godly amount like 1000+ posts, is because, A. I have noticed that over 75% of the users posting on this forum either ask a, stupid questions, b irrelvant nub questions, c stuff i already know, B. just because i do not post does not mean that i do not read all the posts even the silly ones for a laugh, but i do not mean to put people down, nor do i intend to "make enemies" on a forum page which in my oponion is almost extremely silly and a clear sign of immaturity. Now to address evil Rotor, he is running stock turbos, just that they are non-sequential, and of course any guy witha brain could do the math, their are numbers of ways to get 400hp + i.e. Supercharger or the infamous NOS. But those peole are few and far between. i bet not over 5% of the people who post on this forum have ever A. owned a 400hp+ rex or B. driven in a car with 400+ but of course this is an assumption on my part.
The Jist of the story is, people like 87rx7guy make this forum look slightly childish at times, spouting out "look at you mr. 48 posts" you know nothign guy,
and it looks like i need to retract my previous statement because it seems like mostly kids reply to the posts, but i do respect and trust the guys who know their ****, sorry for my ramblings plz dont judge before you know backgroudn info

Looks to me like you need to read a little more. The RULES would be a good place to start. We don't flame.

rx7_ragtop

Ok folks... we don't call other users "moron" either.

Xxrx7tIIxX

Hey....what kind of rims are those and where can I get them? those are PHAT. and how big are they?

rx7_ragtop

Not needed for 350 hp. For that matter, not needed for 450 or even 500 hp. Has a pretty negative impact on reliability.

Quote:

FMIC, t3/t4 hibryd,

Yes to FMIC, NO WAY to T3/T4 hybrid. No manifold to fit it on a rotary, hot side to small to bother with- the stock hot side with a T4 compressor would be a better choice. If you are going to the trouble of a full turbo swap, go AT LEAST T04E, and if you want 400+ RWHP a T04B 60-1 is the way to go.

Quote:

Piping and fittings, stock primaries, 1200 + secondaries, Haltech E6k (you want this!!), Walbro Fuel pump, fuel rail, BOV, Wastegate,

Why an external wastegate with a T3/T4 hybrid? That's silly. The rest is probably right- although it takes more work to put 1200 secondaries in there than just dropping in 720's in the primary AND secondary spots- and if you have the Haltech, you're writing maps from scratch anyhow, so what's the difference? 1200's require the fuel rail to be modified.

Quote:

electric fan,

Won't cool as well as the stock fan, but does free up some room. HP difference is almost too small to measure.

Quote:

downpipe, midpipe, catback. Should get you 350rwhp with no trouble. estimated cost bought new and you doing the work is about 4k. You'll want to get it tuned by someone who knows what they are doing. Tuning can make ALL the difference.

A lot of what you said is overkill for only 350 RWHP except the turbo- you'd be lucky to get 300 RWHP with a T3/T4 hybrid even if you DID manage to adapt it.

Quote:

Nobody ever said it was cheap to go fast.

You are right, it isn't cheap... but your approach is more expensive than needed. A lot of that stuff is a good idea... but Ari Yallon makes close to 600 RWHP on a "race port" (NOT bridged, just a big "street port") motor without spraying... and over 650 on nitrous. Don't bother with a bridge unless you are a SERIOUS racer. It hurts (on the street) more than it helps- high idle, no way you'll ever pass emissions, etc.

Quote:

You could probably get the parts used for around 2.5k

Not bad for 350+rwhp with an 81 cubic inch engine.

Oh, theres a brand new Haltech e6k on ebay for 995.00, good price

The Haltech is a good deal. A lot of the rest is not.

[YMMIJ]

hey guys you all know american dynos are overestimating compared to australian dynos
I've read an article on it somewhere.

Anyway i've done most of the mods mentioned. ie:
exhaust
intake
hybrid T04
boosted (9psi on the dyno)
computer
pump

i'm missing the injectors and the bigger cooler and i made 225 rwhp. As mentioned before, it'll be an achivement to do this in the 13B. 13-REW seems easier to make big hp.

Need power? 6 rotor

eViLRotor

iTrader: (2)

Where do I get one? And how do I fit it into my FC?

I think you are talking about Dynodynamics vs DynoJet. Its not a matter of 'overestimating', lol. Its just a different type of dyno. More like a Mustang Dyno, I guess...

T210thAnniv

I have a Full 3"Racing Beat exhaust, K&N drop in with top of air box cut off, Walbro fuel pump (re-wired),
S-AFC and @8psi i dynoed 220rwhp. Thats 275 at the flywheel. So you dont need alot to achieve 320-350hp at the flywheel. I should be there after getting a FMIC, 850cc 2ndary injectors, and 10psi (240-255rwhp) or 300-315hp. Oh, btw , even 275hp is alot of power, and i kill people left and right

l33trx7

um.ok, all i can say is injectors exhaust intake, S-AFC, FCD, FMIC, nice big turbo, and maybe nitros (for fun ^_^) Although I don't own a TII, I've done plenty of research about them (I'm in the market for one)

btw this thread i found particularly humorous. i think the arguement is a little strange. Yes it does take a huge amount of money and work (props to those who have) modded their car to get that much rwhp. Seriously, you have my respect. Electrikhead: tell you friend awsome work hitting those numbers . It'll be cool when he gets it faster. Its like me and computers, you can't leave it alone, you have to make it bigger and faster lol. ^_^

600HP CLUB

upgrade turbo compressor about stage 3 from bnr, fuel pump, 720 secondaries, a'pexi s-afc/greddy emanage/hks f-con, boost controller, sx fuel pressure regulator, TID mod, TB mod, port TB, full exhaust -doesn't have to be racingbeat just 3inch all the way with a cheap ebay exhaust, (don't need to but if you want - remove all vac lines that are emmission related), set at 14 psi, some time at the dyno, you should have about 334@wheels. I might have forgotten something, but that's the cheapest way to get 300hp+ good enough for mid-12s.

Xxrx7tIIxX

Is a bov and aftermarket intercooler
necessary if you hvae a bigger turbo?
and also how important is a turbo timer?

eViLRotor

iTrader: (2)

Generally, yes.

-A BOV prevents compressor surge during closed throttle. Even stock TII's have one.

-The stock IC isn't all that efficient, especially with the amount of air that a big turbo will push.

Some people say yes, others say no. There is a great thread about it in the archives somewhere. Just do a search.

I don't use one. I stop boosting a bit before I get to where I'm going, then let the car idle for about a minute.

600HP CLUB

i don't have a turbo timer. but in a serious race yadda yadda when i use the turbo beyond 3 psi, i let it cool down for a minute, listen to my homie tupac and some vietnamese songs and then turn the car off.

Xxrx7tIIxX

So a boost controller would be good to have huh?
I think right now its at about 10?
is that bad?

600HP CLUB

boost controller is good, very good. You need it to controll you boost but you can't lower the boost with the boost controller anymore than the spring is set at, like if you stock spring open up at 5.5, with a boost controller you can't go 5.0 just 5.5

boost controller is like a necessity for a turbo system.

10 PSI isn't bad, that should be the max you should run with stock everything, on my stock 87, gut cats etc..everything basically stock push about 11, feels good too. i'm a damn boost addict, suprise my engine still loves me.

anymore than 10 psi or 11, you need to run more fuel or your engine becomes a gonner, if you don't have the money don't go fast. $300 APEXi or 1.5K Engine you decide.

Madrx7racer

Thanks alot to everyone who responded, I have put everything into perspective and i have a crapload of work to do. Again thanks.

West TX RX-7

RX-7 Ragtop... Well i'm more into overkill Hehehe, I say 350 rwhp and shoot out figures that'll surpass that.. Whay you think Scotty on Star Trek was so popular. He'd Say "Captain, it'll take me 48hours to get the ship movin, and he'd have it goin in 12, heheh better to shoot low and be suprised, heheh I'm having Don Marvel rebuild my engine in 2 weeks with FD rotors, a T-62, street port, E5K, 1600 2nds, custom build manifold, FMIC, elec fan, all the goodies and I'm hoping for 350 rwhp, heheh. I'll bet I dyno at 425+ but I just don't wanna be dissapointed so i'll look for 350.

evil

Is it possible to have 300+ Hp and still be able to pass smog in CA?

600HP CLUB

HELL NAH!

rotary stock form = fail emmissions in california
modify rotary = HELLA FAIL