hey guys. just as the title says when i turn my car on it usually idles between 2000-2500. once it warms up it will sometimes drop to a little over 1k.
i read a thread a little while ago that said this could be coolant related somehow, is this possible and if so, how?

 

edit: not sure i made it clear or not, but this isnt the 3k warm up happening, its something different altogether.

 

mine does same thing, would be nice to find an answer. Not the 3k start thing for me either.

 

nice to know theres someone to who can relate lol.

 

I have the same problem!
We both need help!

With me, I had a bad TPS and tested it according to Reted's methods. Got another one and that one was bad. Just picked up another one and this one is good!

So I was excited to get it together, put it on but the idle still sucked. I tried measuring the tps through the green plug with both a volt and light meter but both come up nill. However, through reteds more accurate test the TPS does indeed work.

When my TPS is fully pushed in, the idle will stay at 1.5k however if it is not all the way pushed in the idle bounces 1.5-2k.

So i started with a 2k problem like your self , this is on an 87 TII, and now still have the 2k problem but it bounces. This is with a good TPS.

One thing I have found however, is that when I push the screw mechanism for the tps very from the back (standing from the pass side and pushing in with a long screw driver) the idle will actually drop significantly.

So have you checked your TPS according to Reted's site? I would do that first, then afer that...you may be in the same boat as me. Did you check your BAC as well? Vac leaks?

 

my s5 does the same thing, im also leaking coolant from somewhere

 

i havent had a chance to check it out yet but that sounds like a good place to start.

as for my coolant comment; when i was checking for this in the archive i found a similar problem which was caused by air bubbles in the coolant cause an inaccurate temp reading causing the engine to idle a little higher. does this seem feasible at all, or did i misunderstand what they were saying?

 

I have an '87 TII that idles around 2,000rpms until warmed up and then drops down to about 1,300-1,500 and bounces, like it revs up and down every couple seconds, it sounds so stupid idling high like that and then dropping back down every couple seconds. I replaced the TPS with one in spec and the BAC does click when !@V is applied and the resisiatnces were good too. I don't know i was gonna take mine to a stupid mechanic cause I'm getting frustrated with it, fresh rebuilt motor from mazda and the damned thing won't hold an idle. JUnk, it ran fine until one day when i was coming home and went to shift it started revving up and down when driving, parked it at my house and when i went to start it next day it went right up to 4,000 roms, and stayed there, it did that like 3 or 4 times, then i replaced ECU, all new injectors, fuel pump and others and it still does this bouncing/revvimng idle, my motoronly has about 800mi on it.

 

i had that same problem when my black 87'>87.5' TII was in better shape but when it was cold it idled 1700-2000, then after it got a little warmer it would idle around 1200-1400, then at normal op. temp it idled perfect at 750 steady. its retarted...

 

hahaha its a rx7 2k idle plague w/ no cure! AHHHH

 

I've encountered this problem before on a few cars,assuming the tps is adjusted properly,get plans for tps adjustment light its cheap and easy to make,I think its in the arcives somewhere,just assuming it is set properly,check the secondary throtle blade on the throtle body,adustment screw is behind intecooler you can see it from the passenger side try turning it clockwise a quarter turn at a time this will close sec throtle blades ie. lowering idle. conect jumper wire to intial set coupler after start up and ajust idle on bac. it may take a few times to get it all dialed in don't go to far with you adjustments,as it was set perfect at factory ,you should only do this if you think its been tampered with

 

lets try again,your throtle body may be out of adjustment.

 

build a test lamp for checking the TPS and make sure it really adjusted properly

 

hey my car does the same thing and its a 88 na gxl. i dont have any coolanat leaks at all. but when i first got my rx7 out of no where a loud beeping was going on and i had no coolant. why that happened i dont know. but also another thing is that my idle has been doing the samething and it might be becuase my firend tried to adjust the throtle body.

 

.... hehe I have mine set by resistance .1 k ohm @ rest and 4.55 @ WOT u cant get more precise then that better then the lamp things

 

I'm a mazda tech if ya think the resistance thing is accurate then go with it and dont try the throtle body thing K dont want your problems to get any more complex its just a suggestion....lol

 

yeah any time you adjust the tps screw ya need to jump the intial set coupler,green or black,two wire connector by coil pack,by batt box,with the engine warm,when ya filled up the radiator did you bleed the air out?small screw in radiator neck? no coolant to throtle body,idle up,and bac can also cause these problems,also jump ISC when adjusting idle,remove wire before ya drive hope that helps ya,test lamps are nice mazda made mine seat of the pants adjustments made by friends often do more harm than good,unless they really know Fc's

 

my car had a random 2k idle for a while then it just stopped.
I think it was a stuck throttle cable.
try pulling on the throttle cable a bit, or adjusting it.

 

I had the same problem on my 10ae. I performed the TB mod, and it went away. Turns out it was the secondary throttle plates sticking shut or something to that effect (at least i think). Also, when I took off the thermowax piston, there was white waxy residue inside it. I am not saying this is the same, but it might be a place to look. Could be the assembly for the secondary throt plates. Hope this helps.