20W50 oil VS Winter
11-03-05, 12:00 AM
#26
Jesus is the Messiah
Originally Posted by homebrewer
Destroy itself? Please post your oil analysis lab results so we can see how bad it was. If you don't have lab results then pray tell, how did you test your oil, taste test, smell test, color test?
Rotaries typically have issues with fuel dilution of engine oil and shearing. Fuel dilution is worst with short trips.
Rotaries typically have issues with fuel dilution of engine oil and shearing. Fuel dilution is worst with short trips.
11-03-05, 12:28 AM
#27
Originally Posted by homebrewer
I hope the 3 mos/3,000 mile rule isn't something that you folks actually belive applies to piston engines. I'm up to 10,000 mile oil change intervals in my new car and plan on extending it to 20,000 miles once my warranty expires. The factory service interval is 10,000 in the US but in Europe it is 20,000 miles or evfery 2 years.
Storage, my 91 Vert has 26,000 miles on it right now and I guess it is in a constant state of storage. Every two weeks, I start the engine and let it idle for about 15 minutes. If I can, I'll take it out for a 10 mile highway stint-next exit and back on the interstate but that isn't always possible.
Storage, my 91 Vert has 26,000 miles on it right now and I guess it is in a constant state of storage. Every two weeks, I start the engine and let it idle for about 15 minutes. If I can, I'll take it out for a 10 mile highway stint-next exit and back on the interstate but that isn't always possible.
Regarding engine oil changes, I'll stick to my current patterns.
The RX-7 gets an oil change every 2000 miles or so. When I'm a quart or so up, I change the oil. I premix, so I get a slowly increasing amount of oil in the crankcase. The engine probably isn't as tight as it could be, but most other people who premix see the same thing, so I'm not worried about it.
My motorcycle gets an oil change every 2000-3000 miles, though I haven't actually had an opportunity to get it there yet with some engine work I was doing. A motorcycle transmission is really hard on oil, and I can tell the viscosity is dropping noticeably around 800 miles or so due to the longer time it takes for the oil pressure light to wink out (half a second or so instead of instantly). I might change it sooner than 3000, not totally sure yet.
The Subaru (87 GL, non-turbo, EA82 motor) I've been trying to do oil every 3000-5000 miles, though by that point it's already had a full oil change in service (it leaks a decent amount, a quart every 800-1000 miles). The oil also comes out rather dark, so I try to run some Seafoam through it before I change the oil to help get the crap out.
Yes, you can probably go 10,000 miles between oil changes. However, nobody ever killed an engine by changing the oil too often. And compared to the rest of the cost of owning & operating a vehicle, a few extra oil changes are trivial.
-=Russ=-
11-03-05, 07:46 AM
#28
Former Moderator. RIP Icemark.
While I agree on some cars (my BMW for example) you can go 10K miles on the oil using a synthetic, most conventional oils in my piston cars seem to start breaking down around 5K-7K miles.
This is from testing as Homebrewer advocates.
However non turbo rotaries can generally go 5 K miles with no problems and Turbos 3K miles with no problems if the motor is in average or better condition (above 100 PSI compression on all faces).
But the only real way to tell, is to run testing. Every 1000 miles send out a sample for testing. It becomes pretty apparent when you need to make an oil change doing so.
But 2K miles is way excessive unless the motor has some serious seal issues.
This is from testing as Homebrewer advocates.
However non turbo rotaries can generally go 5 K miles with no problems and Turbos 3K miles with no problems if the motor is in average or better condition (above 100 PSI compression on all faces).
But the only real way to tell, is to run testing. Every 1000 miles send out a sample for testing. It becomes pretty apparent when you need to make an oil change doing so.
But 2K miles is way excessive unless the motor has some serious seal issues.
11-03-05, 11:37 AM
#29
Originally Posted by Icemark
But 2K miles is way excessive unless the motor has some serious seal issues.
Also, I'm pretty sure the side seal clearance is greater than might be optimal.
-=Russ=-
11-03-05, 02:50 PM
#30
Eats, Sleeps, Dreams Rotary
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I noticed an audible difference when starting up the car in the morning going from 20W50 to 10W30 in the winter. It sounds "happier." I found an additional difference going switching 10W30 conventional to 5W50 synthetic.
Let's be realistic, for the few times you'll have it out before it snows you're probably fine with any choice you make.
Let's be realistic, for the few times you'll have it out before it snows you're probably fine with any choice you make.
11-05-05, 08:24 AM
#31
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Originally Posted by Mason Rx7
Hmmmmm... Supertech or Mobil 1... Which one would I trust in my car for 3,000 miles?
"Getting the junk out" Do you really think that draining the oil out of your engine and then putting new oil in is gonna clean out what was sitting in the oil cooler or the bottom of the oil pan? There is always some kind of residue. I simply stated that to get some more of that out before storage that you should try this out. I think I might try this next time I change my oil to see what color of oil comes out.
Do many of us have piston enginesin our Rx-7's? I do believe we are talking about rotary engines and I do believe that Mazda specified 3,000 miles or 3 months? Why would we not do what Mazda says is best for our engines?
"Getting the junk out" Do you really think that draining the oil out of your engine and then putting new oil in is gonna clean out what was sitting in the oil cooler or the bottom of the oil pan? There is always some kind of residue. I simply stated that to get some more of that out before storage that you should try this out. I think I might try this next time I change my oil to see what color of oil comes out.
Do many of us have piston enginesin our Rx-7's? I do believe we are talking about rotary engines and I do believe that Mazda specified 3,000 miles or 3 months? Why would we not do what Mazda says is best for our engines?
Get a clue, there is little if no advantage in using Mobil 1 over cheap oil such as Supertech for a short oil interval. The main place that synthetics shine is in extended oil change intervals for the average non racing application user. Using Mobil 1 in our vehicles is a waste of money. A synthetic oil won't protect you against the unusually high fuel dilution that occurs with rotary engines. Think about what the oil is protecting in our rotary engines. What are the only things that are actually lubed by engine oil in a rotary?
Yes, I know this is a rotary discussion but the 3 month, 3000 mile oil change is a myth in piston engines. 3000 mile oil changes in a rotary aren't but the 3 month duration is.
The key to a rotary is frequent oil changes NTE 3k OCI's or 12 mos which ever comes first. Using superpiss oil shouldn't be a problem.
Oh, almost forgot. Do you guys really care about engine longevity with your oil? Most of you blow your engines once a year anyway.
11-05-05, 10:29 AM
#32
Originally Posted by homebrewer
Oh, almost forgot. Do you guys really care about engine longevity with your oil? Most of you blow your engines once a year anyway.
-=Russ=-
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