I totally understand everything that encompasses this, so please do not ask If I want 5psi at Idle? Or It's not meant for street use FC's.

My previous Engine failure was attributed to a flaw In the assembly of the Lubrication System amoung other assembly bits due not to me. So now - I'm doing the overkill with the Intentions to have my FC running some serious HP after everything Is said and done.

Along with the Weber air jets I'm Installing In the E-Shaft, Is a Street RB Oil Pressure Regulator, shimming the Oil Control Valve Regulator, RB Baffle Plate, RB Oil Cooler Lines, new Bearings to the Rotors and Stationary Gears (both sets of Bearings were mangled).

So my question Is what are your Impression on the Installation of these Jets? I understand their Is a stickied thread In the other forum which proves useful to some degree.

 

Hmm, a worthwhile mod that no one has done?

 

My engine is still on break in, but a idle of 1100-1200 I am running 25psi of oil, so so far is not as bad as some people say it is.

BTW - The jets are the only oil mod on my engine

 

Thanks for the reply...abit dicey doing this as a sole mod, eh?

Anyone else with their Impressions on this mod?

 

I didn't tell ya but try over at n-p in the engine building section... tech feedback

 

Yeah, that was the thread I was referring to earlier.

 

How many second gen owners are easily exceeding 450 hp?

I've done this to engines, along with other heavy oil mods. What do you want to know?

(also, as a recommendation for that baffle plate... make/buy some studs to replace the stock 10mm bolts. Trust me )

 

B'c of the overkill I am already doing to my Lubrication System, I figured relative to the cost - I might aswell as go with the Weber Jets. What I want to know are Impressions such as what KNONFS has provided.

Oh yeah, I hear you on the studs for the Oil Pan. Very tight tolerance with the stock ones when using the RB Baffle Plate, If any.

 

15 psi oil pressure at 800 rpm idle with new TII oil pump- below my liking.

 

Minus the front Counter Weight - everything In front of the Stationary Gear on will be brand new - Including the Oil Pump too.

 

Why replace the CAS and oil pump drive gears?
You might want to consider a high-volume oil pump.

You don't need to shim the front regulator with the street regulator; RB doesn't include shims for it. You should never have to shim it at all, actually; its bleed pressure is set ridiculously high.

 

Is that with a higher opr?

 

B'c they were scored to ****. Highly unusable. With a 28% discount from Mazda - I went all out on replacing everything for an appreciable price, If their Is such a one. My apoligies Sean, I didn't mean to Include the Crank Angle Sensor In the equation. That checked out okay.

So, with my RB Street Rear Oil Pressure Regulator - your saying to not to mess around with the Front Control Pressure Regulator (shim) when adding #200 Jets? Hmm...I'll call Racing Beat right now for added Info to this thread.

 

I just got off the phone with Racing Beat. A gentleman by the name of Chris (real good guy - coincidently, same person I end up speaking to everytime I order from there) had told me, after I gave him the low down, that I do not need to mess around with the Front Control Pressure Regulator. With the #200 Weber Jets and my RB Oil Pressure Regulator, I should be fine.

Thanks for the replies scathcart.

 

Makes no difference. Higher rate OPR just changes the maximum oil pressure, not idle pressure. Changing an OPR has no effect on idle oil pressure.

EDIT: to clarify: An oil pressure regulator is a simple ball and spring bleed, nearly identical to a ball and srping boost controller. A spring presses a ball bearing into a bore. The the oil pressure is raised to (65 for stock OPR in FC's), the oil pressure overcomes the spring pressure, and however much excess pressure exists in the oil system is bled off back into the oil pan.
This is why it has no effect on idle oil pressure.

The only way to increase idle oil pressure is to decrease pressure losses through the system (the banjo bolts for the oil cooler lines are a good example of pressure drops), or to force more volume through the system at that RPM, with... say.... a higher volume oil pump.

 

Ohh ****, I forgot, I also have the front bolt bypass on teh E shaft (sorry, forgot how its called)!

 

That will have no effect on oil pressures when the engine is hot. (only cold)
Its the thermal pellet replacement, btw.

 

Thanks that's it!

Still I see 25psi @ 1200rpms when the engine is hot, will check at 900rpms

 

What can be substituted for a TII Oil Pump? B'c, I'm about to buy a new one, as mentioned previously.

 

Atkins sells a High volume pump for $125 USD, for one.

 

Thats how much I paid for (Canadian) for a stock TII one with my discount.

 

scathcart you stated "the banjo bolts for the oil cooler lines are a good example of pressure drops" My oil cooler is pretty smashed up (not leaking though) and I plan on buying a new one. Should I try to buy something that does not use banjo bolts and flows better? Are there any you recommend? I will most likely also replace the lines to and from the oil cooler. I don’t need anything fancy like SS lines, what do you think would be the best way to go about doing this.
1. best oil cooler
2. best lines
3. best way to connect the oil cooler to the lines (not banjo bolts?)

thanks for the info so fare, I am learning a lot.

 

1. stock.
2. I make my own lines from braided SS using AN fittings and adaptors, with rounded two 90 degree curves, on 45, aqnd one 120. They fit without cutting the frame, dunno if they fit with stock battery tray in place.
3. I use metric to AN adpaters. About the best you can do short of having fittings welded onto your existing oil cooler.

 

Or - just drill & port the banjo bolts.

 

Still won't flow like AN fittings.