1988 gul

I've been looking for a wrecked fd twin turbo for a while, and i came across a website that sells the whole set up for $2300 and im very interested.

I was wondering if i can take the car in to BAR with that swap and get certification for it.

(I would put the cleanest cats, and mufflers i could on it.)

I LIVE IN CALIFORNIA

1988 gul

feel free to ask any questions that you need to answer mine.

Chris Boots

that kind of setup has been done but is not easy (and thats not an understatement). Some go as far to say the swap isn't worth it vs. how much time and money needed. Its actually easier to swap a 20B in a 2nd gen imo than a REW. So in theory if you were to swap it all on like stock it would run like a stock 3rd gen engine and then pass emissions if its in that good of condition. So far anyone who does the swap as far as I know usually dumps the twin turbo setup for a single turbo and then ditch the emissions parts on the engine as well as use a standalone engine management like Wolf or haltec or megasquirt etc etc rather than the stock ecu. Otherwise go ahead and ask questions and I'm sorry to say it but search a little.

SirCygnus

iTrader: (1)

too much trouble to get working and you live in cali. thats a different country as far as im concerned.

87 t-66

iTrader: (133)

i would like to hear your reasoning behind this.

ITSWILL

iTrader: (12)

20b swaps are cake! Honestly there are quite a few aspects of the 20b swap that make you think it was made to go in an FC. I cannot attest to knowing anything about doing an FD swap, but I could only imagine it is easier. You probably don't have to move the radiator and sway bar for starters.

Funkspectrum

iTrader: (5)

It can be done...legally even.

Someone here has to know where to find the REW motor mounts for the FC. I've seen them before but I can't remember the damn website.

I'm considering that swap now as well...been thinking about it for a month or so.

drifter_sr

iTrader: (2)

it is easly done.. i think most of these motor swaps are really just the mounts, and what you choose for the wiring.(haltech, micro, motec,ect) after doing my 13b RE in my fc that is all i really thought was a big part of this. i did the biger turbo and all the other after market to get me to a higher horse but im not to sure on how you are going to get certificate for that swap. i know cali if alittle more pain in the a$$ about motor swaps and all. but it seems to be easy if you have the funds for it...

arghx

iTrader: (3)

here's one of the most well-known writeups: http://fc3spro.com/TECH/SWAP/FD3S/rew.html

I haven't done the swap personally, but it seems to me that the best way would be to bring the REW motor to a machine shop. I think you can do this with the engine still together. Also bring a junk 2nd gen middle iron and oil pan. Tell them to drill and tap the same holes on the FD middle iron that are on the FC, then adapt FC oil pan. Then you are better off going single turbo or non sequential twins.

If you wanted to go sequential you would need to have wiring and plumbing for the charge control, charge relief, and turbo control vacuum solenoids. Those three are located in the main solenoid rack under the UIM. Then there is a fourth solenoid called the turbo control pressure solenoid which you would need to keep. That's located on the ACV (air control valve which is for smog). You also need the vacuum chamber (front of the UIM) for the first 3 solenoids and the pressure chamber for turbo control pressure solenoid. Boost control can be done with the factory precontrol/wastegate solenoid set or with solenoid(s). Any standalone with switchable outputs can control these.







The charge control solenoid should be grounded and thus "ON" until the transition point, where it turns OFF. This behavior switches the air going to the charge control actuator from vacuum (from the vacuum chamber) to boost from the compressor outlet Y-pipe. The turbo control vacuum and pressure solenoids (which are wired in parallel and controlled together) are "OFF" until the transition point, at which point they are turned ON (grounded). Vacuum and pressure are supplied to each side of the actuator from their respective solenoids and chambers.

The charge relief valve is essentially a blowoff valve used during prespool, and like any blowoff valve it needs vacuum (here from the vacuum chamber). Thus the solenoid should be ON (grounded) 1000-1500rpm before the main transition point. When the charge relief solenoid is ON, vacuum is supplied to the charge relief valve from the vacuum chamber; when it is OFF, pressure is supplied to the charge relief valve from the compressor outlet Y-pipe. This is essentially the inverse of the charge control solenoid operation and plumbing.

Once the transition point is reached (and you can pick when you want it to be), Charge control should OFF, turbo control (both) should be ON, and charge relief should be OFF. All this can be controlled custom with a Haltech, or controlled automatically with a Power FC.



That's the abridged version of how it works. More here: https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generation-specific-1993-2002-16/why-engine-so-damn-complicated-part-1-sequential-turbos-demystified-841821/

For emissions, it would all depend on how strict the visual test is. All you really need is the air pump going straight to the cat and the ECU controlling it, and the EGR and charcoal canister there if they are looking for it.