MattsFc3s

hey guys i have a s4 na 13b im having a huge short issues in the wiring was wondering if anyone has insight, the car currently runs and drives but has a major issue with the lights, when i turn my headlight switch on all the way (dimmer switch) i notice with the key on acc the lights are bright, when i turn key to ON and pull my headlights up the dash lights dim.. they also dim when i hit the brakes.. and the turn signals will not active either due to the load for the dash and headlighs but they work if i take of the headlights same for hazards. so i got out a multimeter and found my meter fuse was the problem after doing a amp test had 0.17 when the meter fuse was out and 0.40-0.80 when it was plugged in, i noticed the amp bounced alot when the buzzer went off after a few seconds with the key on the ON position
but the meter fuse plugged before the buzzer goes off was a steady 0.70
so when the buzzer kicked in after a few seconds with the key on ON i noticed the amps bounced between 0.40-0.80

i then unplugged the cluster connector behind the dash and noticed it when right down to 0.17 amp which im told is a safe area to be in? 0.10-0.30 is good im told

so im curious is my cluster just bad or is it deep then that and possibly the harness it self or a bad relay?

please give me some insight here im so close to getting this car to pass its first safety since ownership

thanks in advance

Jeff76

I am not super sure I understand exactly what you are expaining here, I will try to put my two cents in. If nothing else, it is a bump.

Dimming lights can have many different issues going on, many of which I am uncertain of. The easy answer is the alternator/battery is bad.

Edit: Try This first....https://www.aaroncake.net/RX-7/grounding.htm

1. Have you checked every fuse, mechanical electrical connection, and mating surface for corrosion and cleaned? I know the fuses are on a bad spot, It might take a full disassembly to really see what is going on. I know the even older glass fuse type blocks have corrosion on the contacts sometimes, they need cleaned and protected. There should be a main input wire to the fuse block, usually with a compression lug on it, what does that look like after removal? Even if it is good, cleaning with Scotch bright and coating with dielectric grease is a welcome insurance policy for further issues. Any other connections, do the same. Also sometimes the lug or crimp on the lug go bad over time to so, very gently twist and pull on it. Look for frayed or broken wires and replace if needed.

2. The fuse is rated what amp for those circuits? I know your meter is a bit different with the decimal point and all. Don't go over what the amp rating on the fuse box says for anything in that circuit. Bigger fuses than what is listed or smaller gauge wire than what is called for is not good. Do you smell smoke? Don't use an undersized fuse, constantly blowing fuses isn't fun. If you are missing the lid, figure out what guage wires are there, probably 16, 18, 20awg for control wires? Then look up current draw for stranded wire. It sould be pretty close or spot on to what the fuse rating is. Also the FSM or wiring drawings has this info probably somewhere too.

3. Where does the ground wire for the lights and the cluster terminate? Check those too. Pull the headlight bulbs and check the connector and pins on the bulb. If You have trouble finding the grounds, probe the connecter with the other one tied to a good ground. You will find them pretty easilly usually. Do this with the key off and the battery diconnected to be safe. Maybe even wait a bit for the caps in the ECU too bleed power to to be safest. If the ohms rating is higher than typical resistace for the gauge and wire length, trace the wire and locate the issue. If there are any known grounds with voltage on them or continuity with ground where the shouln't be, there is a short present. Some hot connections will have a very small amout of continuity with ground. Not sure what causes this, it usually isn't an issue though.

4. In old cars there used to be a flasher module under the dash for the turn signal. Maybe 7's don't have one? It is possible, if it doesn't see 12vdc the relays won't trip or trip reliably. Check for voltages as well as the amps on all circuits under load and not. Also the relay ends could have corroded or worn out and the module needs replaced. Is there an audible sound or click from under the dash when the turn signal works? Follow the sound and you will find the module. Don't get to excited if replacing the module fixes the issue mostly. After the relays start to wear, the problem will return if the surrounding issues aren't fixed if any.

I just watched a video showing a solenoid issuse on a Honda auto trans. He replaced the solenoid and still nothing. He applied 12vdc directly to the solenoid and it clicked. He measured the voltage without the jumpers in place and it was 10vdc. Not enough voltage to turn on the solenoid, I assume it has a relay inside.

Hopefully your issue isn't the cluster or switches. Check those for corrosion too. Spray the switches with cleaner and agitate. Wait till dry and reconnect. There is bit of keruffle on what cleaner to use, some cleaners leave a coating and others don't, etc. I won't be discussing that here.

The rest you mentioned might not be very relevent, I am not sure.