Hi I have a 1986 Mazda rx7 GXL 5 speed. My car keeps flooding itself during cold starts and occasionally while its hot. I have to hold the gas pedal down about half way to make her run and not flood. I De-flood it but it will do the samething again after it cools down. I have a reman computer, cleaned used IAC, new coolant temp sensor, MSD wires, denso plugs and a used MAF. I also have used low impedence injectors that i might put in but other than that could it be my apex seals going cause ive had some people tell me that? Shes got 274K on her but she runs to redline no problem and shes a daily driver so i wouldnt understand how it could be that? Any input on what else i can do? Thanks for your input!!!

 

Have you considered a fuel cut switch?

 

Your water thermo sensor is disconnected.

Water thremo sensors don't fail unless you hammer on them with a hammer or the like. If the green plug seems to be on it, then remove the plug and see if one of the terminals inside the plug is pushed back not making contact.

See the self explanatory graph attached as to what is involved in STARTING a RX-7.

IF the sensor is connected up and the terminals are not pushed back, then by using common sense, see if the START signal is arriving at pin 3B of the ECU, when you go to START. No start signal means the afm is being used during START instead of the internal START MAP internal to the ECU, and therefore not enough fuel is being delivered.

IF the water thermo sensor is disconnected, the ECU defaults its input to the ECU, to a value of 180* i.e. a fully hot engine. That's why a warm engine might start fine but not when cold.

 

im asking around for the kill switch now but where is the thermo switch located at?

 

so would it be possible that the computer for the egi to be bad?

 

The ECU is good.

The water thermo sensor is on the aft side of the water pump HOUSING. It has two wires and the plug is green in color.

There is a free, online download of the factory service manual available on this site.

 

its not the water temp sensor for the computer behind the thermostat housing is it cause i changed that? its right next to the alternator.

 

I would pull the injectors and send them off to have the cleaned and flow tested.
I use RC Engineering www.rceng.com but a lot of guys use Witchhunter.

The other possibility is low compression, and with 247 on the clock this seems to be a distinct possibility. I would do a compression test.

If the injectors are leaking it would cause a flood condition cold and hot.

I would think the water thermosensor would be more of a cold start problem. Actually, it would not cause flooding, but not enough fuel, making starting and idling difficult.

 

i think i may have found the so called kill switch that was installed by the previous owner by the floor i used it when i left work for lunch and when i left to come home today and she didnt flood. so i think this might be it but i will be keeping posted on this.