Hi all

I have a reman engine I'm putting back together, but something I noticed kinda confused me. As fas as I know the holes in the e-shaft for the pulley bolts should be asymmentrical so that pulley canonly fit in one position right? well this one s got all of them in same position and the first pulley engine came with will bolt in any position. WTF is that? What year engine did that e-shaft came from? My original pulley wont bolt to it so I'm in trouble. Should I contact the mazda dealer or what? Also how do I find the TDC now?

 

bump

 

If it's an FC pulley, it should work.
There is one bolt that is like 15-degrees off from the other three, and this makes the pulley only fit in one position.
Try again - I think you just didn't get them aligned right the first time.


-Ted

 

sorry man but i'm not trippin yet.
I checked and all 4 holes on pulley boss on new engine were symmetrically alligned. I could install pulley in any position. Thankfully mazda dealer did not ship off my previous core so I was able to go back there and switch the pulley and the pulley boss. That is the first time I saw something like this. I pray this engine will work out. If not I will never ever order a remanufactured engine again

 

Take out both trailing plugs. Use a flashlight to find an apex seal as you rotate the engine. Line the seal up first with the trailing hole. Make a mark on the pulley up front. Line it up in the center of the leading hole. Make another mark.

Take the pulley off, and find the halfway point between the 2 new marks. Now, measure about 5mm counterclockwise. There is your new leading timing mark.

My quick measurements indicate a stock timing pulley is 360mm in circumference. So, 1 degree of timing equals about 1mm on the circumference. Stock leading timing is 5* after TDC, which you found by the 2 marks.

 

wowoowwowwow
Got pics?


-Ted

 

Take a GOOD look at the hub key, mark it on the outside so that you can see the it (you won't be able to, once the bolt is in). That mark when aligned to the front cover pin, will yield TDC.

 

Make sure you keep pressure on the e-shaft. Don't want the needle bearing to fall. Screw up your re-man.

 

What? How will it do that, when the stock timing marks of +5 and +20* atdc are a good 90* away from the keyway?

Looking at the hub with stock timing marks from the front, with the keyway at the top, the timing marks will usually be around 3 oclock.

 

My bad, that was a brain fart

When the key IS AT the 9 oclcok position, then the engines is at TDC

Sorry about that

 

THIS IS WRONG, MY BAD!!

When the hub key is at 9 o'clock position, the engine is then at TDC.

Sorry about that