13B TII e-shaft pulley bolts
#1
Full Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2002
Location: NC
Posts: 56
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
13B TII e-shaft pulley bolts
Hi all
I have a reman engine I'm putting back together, but something I noticed kinda confused me. As fas as I know the holes in the e-shaft for the pulley bolts should be asymmentrical so that pulley canonly fit in one position right? well this one s got all of them in same position and the first pulley engine came with will bolt in any position. WTF is that? What year engine did that e-shaft came from? My original pulley wont bolt to it so I'm in trouble. Should I contact the mazda dealer or what? Also how do I find the TDC now?
I have a reman engine I'm putting back together, but something I noticed kinda confused me. As fas as I know the holes in the e-shaft for the pulley bolts should be asymmentrical so that pulley canonly fit in one position right? well this one s got all of them in same position and the first pulley engine came with will bolt in any position. WTF is that? What year engine did that e-shaft came from? My original pulley wont bolt to it so I'm in trouble. Should I contact the mazda dealer or what? Also how do I find the TDC now?
#3
Lives on the Forum
If it's an FC pulley, it should work.
There is one bolt that is like 15-degrees off from the other three, and this makes the pulley only fit in one position.
Try again - I think you just didn't get them aligned right the first time.
-Ted
There is one bolt that is like 15-degrees off from the other three, and this makes the pulley only fit in one position.
Try again - I think you just didn't get them aligned right the first time.
-Ted
#4
Full Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2002
Location: NC
Posts: 56
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
sorry man but i'm not trippin yet.
I checked and all 4 holes on pulley boss on new engine were symmetrically alligned. I could install pulley in any position. Thankfully mazda dealer did not ship off my previous core so I was able to go back there and switch the pulley and the pulley boss. That is the first time I saw something like this. I pray this engine will work out. If not I will never ever order a remanufactured engine again
I checked and all 4 holes on pulley boss on new engine were symmetrically alligned. I could install pulley in any position. Thankfully mazda dealer did not ship off my previous core so I was able to go back there and switch the pulley and the pulley boss. That is the first time I saw something like this. I pray this engine will work out. If not I will never ever order a remanufactured engine again
#5
Lives on the Forum
iTrader: (8)
Take out both trailing plugs. Use a flashlight to find an apex seal as you rotate the engine. Line the seal up first with the trailing hole. Make a mark on the pulley up front. Line it up in the center of the leading hole. Make another mark.
Take the pulley off, and find the halfway point between the 2 new marks. Now, measure about 5mm counterclockwise. There is your new leading timing mark.
My quick measurements indicate a stock timing pulley is 360mm in circumference. So, 1 degree of timing equals about 1mm on the circumference. Stock leading timing is 5* after TDC, which you found by the 2 marks.
Take the pulley off, and find the halfway point between the 2 new marks. Now, measure about 5mm counterclockwise. There is your new leading timing mark.
My quick measurements indicate a stock timing pulley is 360mm in circumference. So, 1 degree of timing equals about 1mm on the circumference. Stock leading timing is 5* after TDC, which you found by the 2 marks.
#6
Lives on the Forum
Originally Posted by fc3sguy
sorry man but i'm not trippin yet.
I checked and all 4 holes on pulley boss on new engine were symmetrically alligned. I could install pulley in any position. Thankfully mazda dealer did not ship off my previous core so I was able to go back there and switch the pulley and the pulley boss. That is the first time I saw something like this. I pray this engine will work out. If not I will never ever order a remanufactured engine again
I checked and all 4 holes on pulley boss on new engine were symmetrically alligned. I could install pulley in any position. Thankfully mazda dealer did not ship off my previous core so I was able to go back there and switch the pulley and the pulley boss. That is the first time I saw something like this. I pray this engine will work out. If not I will never ever order a remanufactured engine again
Got pics?
-Ted
#7
B O R I C U A
iTrader: (14)
Originally Posted by fc3sguy
Hi all
I have a reman engine I'm putting back together, but something I noticed kinda confused me. As fas as I know the holes in the e-shaft for the pulley bolts should be asymmentrical so that pulley canonly fit in one position right? well this one s got all of them in same position and the first pulley engine came with will bolt in any position. WTF is that? What year engine did that e-shaft came from? My original pulley wont bolt to it so I'm in trouble. Should I contact the mazda dealer or what? Also how do I find the TDC now?
I have a reman engine I'm putting back together, but something I noticed kinda confused me. As fas as I know the holes in the e-shaft for the pulley bolts should be asymmentrical so that pulley canonly fit in one position right? well this one s got all of them in same position and the first pulley engine came with will bolt in any position. WTF is that? What year engine did that e-shaft came from? My original pulley wont bolt to it so I'm in trouble. Should I contact the mazda dealer or what? Also how do I find the TDC now?
Take a GOOD look at the hub key, mark it on the outside so that you can see the it (you won't be able to, once the bolt is in). That mark when aligned to the front cover pin, will yield TDC.
Trending Topics
#9
Lives on the Forum
iTrader: (8)
Take a GOOD look at the hub key, mark it on the outside so that you can see the it (you won't be able to, once the bolt is in). That mark when aligned to the front cover pin, will yield TDC.
Looking at the hub with stock timing marks from the front, with the keyway at the top, the timing marks will usually be around 3 oclock.
#10
B O R I C U A
iTrader: (14)
Originally Posted by RotaryResurrection
What? How will it do that, when the stock timing marks of +5 and +20* atdc are a good 90* away from the keyway?
Looking at the hub with stock timing marks from the front, with the keyway at the top, the timing marks will usually be around 3 oclock.
Looking at the hub with stock timing marks from the front, with the keyway at the top, the timing marks will usually be around 3 oclock.
My bad, that was a brain fart
When the key IS AT the 9 oclcok position, then the engines is at TDC
Sorry about that
#11
B O R I C U A
iTrader: (14)
Originally Posted by KNONFS
Take a GOOD look at the hub key, mark it on the outside so that you can see the it (you won't be able to, once the bolt is in). That mark when aligned to the front cover pin, will yield TDC.
THIS IS WRONG, MY BAD!!
When the hub key is at 9 o'clock position, the engine is then at TDC.
Sorry about that
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
KAL797
Test Area 51
0
08-11-15 03:47 PM