datsun_d

I'm gearing up to do this swap. The mounting situation seems pretty straight forward as far as welding in a cross member. My issue is I can't seem to find a good write up as far as the wiring goes. Do any of you have a link to a good write up on this that doesn't turn into a pissing match about how to mount the damn thing? Any help would be appreciated, thanks guys.

info; 13b rew into an s4 88 fc vert
I would like to retain the factory ECU so please no "just go haltech man"

JustJeff

iTrader: (13)

^ datsun d

You are saying you want to retain your 88 vert ECU to use with an FD turbo engine?? Or you want to use the FD ecu with your REW engine and put all that in your 88 vert?

If it's the prior then you have not read enough and/or thought about enough. Vert ECU is a naturally aspirated (N/A) while the REW is a turbo engine. If you were considering using this setup...um...get you flame retardent suit on..... wait for your thread to be locked after the mods get annoyed with all the harsh words that will be posted here.

datsun_d

definitely using the rew ECU, so if anyone has a link to a write up on this it would be greatly appreciated.

datsun_d

no info on this?

thejallenator

iTrader: (14)

well unfortunatly you only have 23 posts have have been on here for only a few months. most people that do that usually have no concept of the work needed to swap a motor into an fc. they will always claim to have 09874513245 years as a fabricator/machinest/blah blah blah blah. after getting told what it actually takes to get the car to work they are never to be seen again on this forum.


that being said just about everyone does the smart thing and gets a stand alone because wiring in the FD ecu is just stupid.

datsun_d

wow, apparently a simple question is a little too much for you? I didn't ask for opinions, I didn't ask you to judge my ability to perform the swap, and I won't waste anyone's time trying to explain my abilities to you. All I asked for was a link to a write up of this swap for reference, having looked into this myself I'm pretty aware of what I'm getting into and was simply looking for a page to reference. I'm sorry if my post count threatens you.

this being said, I will ask again, does anyone have a link to a write up regarding this swap?

thejallenator

iTrader: (14)

i wasnt trying to be a dick, im just letting you know why you arent getting any responses.

now to answer your question, nobody keeps the stock ecu when doing this. its just not practical. there is so much wiring to do.

now after researching just now i noticed that NOBODY uses the stock ecu. so it looks like you are going into uncharted water

Evil Aviator

Quite obviously the answer is no. There is a good reason for this, but I wouldn't want to insult your intelligence by explaining it to you.

TwinCharged RX7

iTrader: (14)

Just curious, why do you want to keep the stock ECU, the only reason I can think of is because you want to stick with the stock twins in sequential mode.

walken

iTrader: (6)

use the stock fc wiring harness and get a powerfc and adapter kit.

arghx

iTrader: (3)

The stock FD ECU can't easily be reprogrammed (like a Honda or whatever) and doesn't run well unless all the emissions and rats nest are there. If you get a Power FC and Banzai Racing adapter kit, you can try using a modified s4 n/a harness. You will need a used FD harness so you can cut off connectors. The FD injector and temperature (air, water temp) sensors use different connectors. For the MAP sensor get the GM sensor and adapter from Banzai. You won't have to modify any wires to make the MAP sensor work on an FC. The crank angle sensor wiring is different on the FD. There are two different sensors mounted on the pulley. The FC uses one integrated unit that is dropped in like a distributor and requires adjustment to be set properly. There is a 4 pin connector on the FC CAS that you will have to cut off.

Here is a pic of the FD engine harness in uncut form:



In the upper right hand corner are the crank angle sensors. There are two plugs, one for the G (top dead center) signal and one for the Ne (engine speed) signal. On the FC crank angle sensor harness all that signal comes through a single 4 pin plug that connects to the distributor-looking crank angle sensor. You'll have to figure that one out. It may be as simple as cutting off the FC connector and putting two wires to one FD CAS plug and two wires to the other FD CAS plug.

You will have to cut off the FD TPS connector and match it to the FC one. The FC connector is for a narrow range sensor only. Hook the full range sensor signal voltage wire from the FD plug to the narrow range signal voltage on the FC harness plug. Then tap the unterminated wire for the full range sensor on the Banzai harness adapter harness to the narrow range signal. I think it's pins 3F and 3D from memory.

If you want to use an idle air control valve you will have to cut off the connector from the FD harness, extend the wires, and run it to the FD idle air control/bypass air control valve. Cut off the connectors for the air and water temp from the FD harness and transfer it to the FC harness. If you want the PFC to control boost you will have to insert pins and run wires to make that work, as the series 4 harness did not have an electronic boost control solenoid like the s5.

Follow the instructions from Banzai Racing for hooking up the fuel pump/circuit opening relay trigger from the Power FC to the brown wire on the front harness. That will allow the ECU to control the fuel pump without a switch. The vehicle speed signal can also be supplied from the cruise control system to the Power FC if you want to view vehicle speed in data logs. The o2 sensor doesn't really do anything on the Power FC. Disregard it. Note also that some of these connectors are available from www.bmotorsports.com ... it is possible for you to put together a few "plug and play" mini jumper harnesses to minimize the amount of cutting done to the FC harness.

That's the closest to a "writeup" you are going to get. You will have to figure everything else out. Running a stock ECU is simply not a viable option. Running non sequential turbos is the only thing that makes any sense. The wiring and plumbing will be way too complicated otherwise.

datsun_d

Thank you sir I really appreciate the helpful response.

Exeacute24

ARGHX WOW.... Super what I was looking for! I am in process of doing the same swap. But my reasoning for running the stock ecu is because I was *** raped out of most of the project money. I paid for everything up front for two projects. one FC and one FD, long story short I have no choice but to make this swap work. I have so many parts for both projects but alass only enough to build one bad ***. Unfortanly the FD needs body work and the FC is ready to roll. So you see who one. I have everything else worked out mounting, Rad etc. the only part I was stuck on was the wiring. I so wish I could us a stand alone. But as I said the budget was raped. This is the closes to a bright light at the end of my tunnel. This will help lots mate. Now the other part I have to work out is that my harness ecu LIM UIM are all 16bit series 7. I know overall what im supposed to use because it's easy but hey... If I wanted easy I should have bought a Honda lol hahahaha. I have all the physical worked out pretty easy so far. Just took my time and went with logic. Well I just wanted to say again. Verry nice write up short and to the point. It will at least put me in the right direction.

TurboII RudeBoy

Being that I do a lot of these swaps ill help u out. There is a write up from the nietherlands on Google he explains everything to make a jumper harness frm the s4 dash harness to the s6 power fc.basically u can also plug an rew oem ecu if u wanted. to also.pm me and I will email u the link.

jaggermouth

iTrader: (1)

Yeah I can't help with a stock wiring but I've completed the swap and could give some insight with other stuff. It took me a long time to research all of this stuff, but I'm willing to help

Exeacute24

TurboII RudeBoy, Yes Sir, Thank you so much for the help. I will PM you.

Jaggermouth, Thanks to you too Sir, I know I will have some ants to deal with, once I get to the next step.

I did a ton of looking around and all I can find mostly is ppl talking about the mount issue... That is really over-rated lol.

You guys rock!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Exeacute24

Just to list what I have, currently.

FCS4 87

Greddy pulley kit
Greddy intake Elbo
Greedy turbo timer + FC Harness
RB Sway F+R
RB Springs + KYB White
RB rearsteer eliminator
CorkSport Strut bars F+R
MOMO Steering wheel
Battery moved to rear bin
Apexi boost controller
Walbro fuel pump
S5 TII Hood, Aluminum
S5 Trim + wing complete
S5 Fog lights
S5 Doors + Complete interior (Black)
S5 Power steering rack (Keeping)
S5 Rebuilt TII breaks with SS lines all around
+AXXIS pads
S5 TII trans, LSD Diff
S5 Oil cooler SS lines
S5 Kouki lights
SPEC Stage2 clutch Kit
Cooling plate
FC,5Zigin exhaust 3" piping, Single
Magnaflow high flow Cat
Rebuilt REW 16Bit + Harness + 16bit ECU + Ignitor
DPR did the honing and porting on the Twin Turbos
Heavy duty REW to FC mount. very sturdy + Aluminum Mounts to fit.
RC Engerning injectors (Stock Size)
ARC Bov
Aluminum Catch Can
New slave + SS line
NGK plugs & Wires
Denso O2 sensor
FD Wheels + Ichiba Spacers
FD HKS Down Pipe
Energy Suspension Bushing kit
Poly Trans mounts
New Diff mounts
AEM Fuel Press Reg + gauge
Koyo Rad + 2 10" Fans + Electronic
X02 FMIC
AC out (Keeping heat)
Double Din size Carbon Fiber Gage holder plate To replace Radio

I think that's all right now, but I may be forgetting a few things.
But not much, still have a little bit more to go, lol