13b-re Intercooler Set Up
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13b-re Intercooler Set Up
Its Coming Down To The Intercooler Setup On My 13b-re Into Fc Project And Am Wondering If There Is A Bolt On Kit You Guys Have Come Across. Or If Anyone Here Has Built Piping Or Has Experience.
I Dont Want To Spend 800 Bucks On A Kit That Is Still Going To Need Modification. Oh By The Way I Also Have A Spare 20 B Intercooler, Do You Guys Think This Is Good Enough? Im Running Stock Twins Non-sequential And A Haltech
I Dont Want To Spend 800 Bucks On A Kit That Is Still Going To Need Modification. Oh By The Way I Also Have A Spare 20 B Intercooler, Do You Guys Think This Is Good Enough? Im Running Stock Twins Non-sequential And A Haltech
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I have the same setup as you. I used the ebay obx 12 x 3 x 24. and an ebay piping kit, and a few long peices of silicone 5 layer thick tube and some silicone angled couplers.
Your going to need to re weld the turbo outlet to use the stock twins. It won't clear the hood
Your going to need to re weld the turbo outlet to use the stock twins. It won't clear the hood
#3
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Custom kit for a RE intercooler piping.
The 20B IC doesn't seem very big. Most guys doing a RE swap also go with some decently sized turbos. When you go big turbo you should follow with a big IC.
I think the 20b IC is relative to the Rew ic in size right? That might give you an idea of what power it's capable of handling.
You may be able to pull it off and be fine for cooling the charge but I doubt any one on this board has much experience using one of them in real life.
edit
Oh yeah. You should be able to pull of a IC kit for sub $400.
Ebay intercooler plus ebay pipe kit(not sure how well it woudl work on a re though) would probably be in the $200-270 range.
The 20B IC doesn't seem very big. Most guys doing a RE swap also go with some decently sized turbos. When you go big turbo you should follow with a big IC.
I think the 20b IC is relative to the Rew ic in size right? That might give you an idea of what power it's capable of handling.
You may be able to pull it off and be fine for cooling the charge but I doubt any one on this board has much experience using one of them in real life.
edit
Oh yeah. You should be able to pull of a IC kit for sub $400.
Ebay intercooler plus ebay pipe kit(not sure how well it woudl work on a re though) would probably be in the $200-270 range.
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Originally Posted by slo
I have the same setup as you. I used the ebay obx 12 x 3 x 24. and an ebay piping kit, and a few long peices of silicone 5 layer thick tube and some silicone angled couplers.
Your going to need to re weld the turbo outlet to use the stock twins. It won't clear the hood
Your going to need to re weld the turbo outlet to use the stock twins. It won't clear the hood
OK KOOL SOMEONE WHO HAS EXPIRIENCE WITH THIS. IMA NEED YOUR HELP!! AND WHAT EXACTLY DO YOU MEAN REWELD THE TURBO OUTLET? DID YOU GET THE PIPING KIT THAT HAS ;
2x) 90 degrees Mandrel Bent Pipes
(2x) 75 degrees Mandrel Bent Pipes
(2x) 45 degrees Mandrel Bent Pipes
(2x) Straight Mandrel Bent Pipes
(8x) 3" Blue Straight Couplers
(16x) Clamps ?
I JUST WANNA MAKE SURE I BUY THE CORRECT PARTS
Last edited by rotarydelight; 09-14-06 at 10:01 PM.
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That sounds like the piping kit I got. The clamps are shitty, the couplers suck but the aluminum piping is fine. Buy Tbolt clamps.
"2x) Straight Mandrel Bent Pipes" Ive never seen a strait mandrel bent pipe before
Ok the turbo outlet on the stock twins comes up from the foreward most turbo foreward towords the right corner of the car. It comes up way to high and the hood will never close with it in place, you will need to cut a few inches out of it and re weld it so that its either lower or angled down in the front.
If I could do it over again I would buy the cheapest piping kit that at least has the curves, I would buy about 3 -4 feet of 2.5 inch silicone 5 layer (ebay) and 2 3 to 2.5 inch 45 degree reducers, the heavy duty ones they need at least 6 inches on the 3 inch section.
The reducer elbows would connect to intercooler directly (its got 3inch in and out) and angle up tword the lights slightly, cut holes under the headlight brakets, a hole saw + an air shear would be good hear to make lots of room for the pipes to pass. The 75 degree pipes connect to the reducers and go through the holes perfectly. If your smart and wait till now to re ange the turbo outlet you can connect from the 75 degree with about a 18 inch piece of the heavy duty silicone tubing. This is a perfectly legit way of doing it and the only welding was the turbo outlet. Its also easier to install like this.
On the cold side you also connect the the 75 degree with about 2 feet of silicone but you will need a 90 (if I remember right and another peice of the heavy silicone as a coupler to connect to the OEM 13b-re intake hat. This will obviously nescecitate re locating the battery.
The 13b-re oem intake hat will not work with the FC power steering pump.
send me a PM if that wasn't clear enough
"2x) Straight Mandrel Bent Pipes" Ive never seen a strait mandrel bent pipe before
Ok the turbo outlet on the stock twins comes up from the foreward most turbo foreward towords the right corner of the car. It comes up way to high and the hood will never close with it in place, you will need to cut a few inches out of it and re weld it so that its either lower or angled down in the front.
If I could do it over again I would buy the cheapest piping kit that at least has the curves, I would buy about 3 -4 feet of 2.5 inch silicone 5 layer (ebay) and 2 3 to 2.5 inch 45 degree reducers, the heavy duty ones they need at least 6 inches on the 3 inch section.
The reducer elbows would connect to intercooler directly (its got 3inch in and out) and angle up tword the lights slightly, cut holes under the headlight brakets, a hole saw + an air shear would be good hear to make lots of room for the pipes to pass. The 75 degree pipes connect to the reducers and go through the holes perfectly. If your smart and wait till now to re ange the turbo outlet you can connect from the 75 degree with about a 18 inch piece of the heavy duty silicone tubing. This is a perfectly legit way of doing it and the only welding was the turbo outlet. Its also easier to install like this.
On the cold side you also connect the the 75 degree with about 2 feet of silicone but you will need a 90 (if I remember right and another peice of the heavy silicone as a coupler to connect to the OEM 13b-re intake hat. This will obviously nescecitate re locating the battery.
The 13b-re oem intake hat will not work with the FC power steering pump.
send me a PM if that wasn't clear enough
Last edited by slo; 09-14-06 at 11:32 PM.
#10
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Originally Posted by Digi7ech
I think the 20b IC is relative to the Rew ic in size right?
FC: 290 x 163 x 63 (area 473cm2)
FD: 295 x 114 x 65 (area 336cm2)
JC: 323 x 170 x 65 (area 549cm2)
(Dims in mm)
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Rotarydelight, check out my thread for some decent pics on how I put mine together for my RE swap. Granted, this will be slightly different because I'm not keeping the twins, but it should give you an idea. Got the IC, piping kit, hoses, clamps, etc. all from EBay -- I don't recall the exact prices, but I'm in it pretty cheap so far... Sub $400 for sure, and maybe less than that -- I can't remember.
This will take you to the page 8 where the IC & piping pics are:
https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...8&page=8&pp=15
This will take you to the page 8 where the IC & piping pics are:
https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...8&page=8&pp=15
#14
Banzai Racing
Here is an entire page of pics of our FMIC install in the Banzai Racing 91 Vert 13b-re project car, previous pages are the engine rebuild and install.
http://www.banzairacing.net/br_projects_vert_pg4.htm
http://www.banzairacing.net/br_projects_vert_pg4.htm
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Originally Posted by Cpt.Zanzibar
why is the beginning of each word capitalized? not flaming just wondering.
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