I just got a cosmo motor and I am thinking of doing the swap instead of my S5 TII. I answered most of my own questions so far but there are still a few things that are hazy:

1. Flywheel/counterweight - Some people said that I can just put on the S5 TII flywheel w/ counterweight ON TOP of the counterweight thats already on the cosmo. Others say that all you need is a lightweight flywheel without counter weight ON TOP of the cosmo counterweight. Who's telling the truth?

2. Coils - Can I use FC coils? I am using a PowerFC for engine management, and have modifed my FC coils to work with it according to Banzai's writeup. But these are modified for the S5TII. Is the timing the same for the cosmo?

3. OMP - powerFC expects 4 oil injectors. Cosmo OMP has 2. Would it be bad to run the 2 injectors on the powerFC instead of pre-mixing? Same outputs, same stepper motor.. Im guessing the flow rate will just be different and it wouldn't be a big deal but hey that's why im asking.

4. Water pump - Why does everyone swap the water pump for an S4 or S5 pump? I mean whats the point? is it BAD if i use leave the cosmo pump?? haha

Thanks to anyone who helps!

 

Oil injectors-Not controlled by the ECU and if they were the power FC is of a FD and the FD runs 2 oil injectors.
Flywheel-use a S5 stock flywheel or a aftermarket with the cosmo counterweight,problem solved.
Water Pump-you can use the cosmo unit or swap to a S4 or S5 unit,now swapping to a rx7 unit will also delete the serpentine belt setup that comes stock with the cosmo motor and this is a good setup,if you want to go with the rx7 unit you need to swap all the pullyes to rx7 v-belt setup.
Coils-the are fine,in fact FD and FB guys use FC coils as a upgrade.

 

Did you buy that one on Used Ottawa, Mike???..If so,and it turns out to be a Runner,That was a "steal of a deal"!.LMK if you got "extra ****" from your other Engine.

 

1. It is absolutely impossible to mount a stock S5 flywheel on top of a Cosmo automatic rear counterweight. Think about it for a second and you will realize just how ridiculous this sounds. Just install a S5 or FD stock flywheel or bolt on an aftermarket flywheel to the auto CW that is on the engine.

2. Coils stay the same, it is still a 13B and the coils do not control timing the ECU does that job.

3. The Cosmo OMP will work fine, the PFC does not "expect" to see any specific number of oil injectors. The 2 and 4 line OMP's function with the same number of electrical outputs from the ECU.

4. The Cosmo pump housing has a dual thermostat setup that is both huge and unsightly. It also has an outlet that points in the wrong direction. The main problem is hood clearance. If you are keeping the OMP then you must use an S5 WP housing. If you want serpentine belts buy the pulley kit that is available, that is what we did.

 

Yeah, that's the one. It is indeed a runner. Checked all the seals myself, and the condition of the housings. Probably 30K on it tops. Seller was a super nice guy too. Im probably going to sell my S5 TII motor as a whole instead of parting it. If noone buys, I'll part it.

Hey, I hear you.. it's just sometimes you get mixed messages you know?


Ah, okay.. It's about clearance. So the cosmo pump doesn't clear the hood. But what does the OMP have to do with the S5 WP housing? If change the cosmo pump to an S5, it will be because i can't close my hood, not beacuse it's ugly or required a long water line.


Too bad the turbo's suck :P

 

S4 WP housing will not fit with an electronic OMP. If you are blocking off the OMP then you can use either series WP housing assembly.

Go ahead and try to use the Cosmo housing tell us how it works out for you.

 

So I am pretty much coming to the end of my sawp. All in all it worked out pretty well.

I did end up using the cosmo waterpump housing. It fit fine, but just barely.

There are still two kinks that I am trying to work out.
#1. I cannot get the stock 3rd gen fans to trigger for the life of me. I set the fan on temperature to 15 degrees C in the datalogit just so they'd turn on as soon as a turned the car on. Even when the water temp reads 50 they still dont turn on. I have the trigger hooked up to pin 3D on the PFC. Is there something I'm missing??

#2. I modified the FC coil packs according to Banzai's writeup, but I have no spark on T1. T2 is firing, however. Why would this be? Also, my tach doesn't work. The commander reads out the RPMs just fine, though. I am guessing it has something to do with the fact that T1 isnt firing?

Any help would be appreciated.

 

Our coil mod only works with our harness which I know you are not using from your other thread.

 

Oh, ****. I had no idea
IS it possible for me to replicate your wiring to go with the coil mod you provided? I don't want to have had cut up 2 FC coil packs for nothing.

 

For future reference for anyone else doing this swap, the Banzai coil mod DOES work without the banzai harness. I just made a booboo in my own wiring

 

There is no tach signal coming from the coils after they are modified with our "how-to". Which means your tach is still not working or you routed wiring somewhere else. Our coil mod is specifically designed to work with our adapter. If you made it work for you good, but that does not mean others should do it. Not using our adapter with the modified coils can cause damage to the PFC if the correct precautions have not been taken.

I also knew that you had messed either the signal wires or the coil mod itself, since the T2 coil would not be the only one that would fire.

 

I had the tach signal spliced into the rear trailing signal from the ECU. I guess that was enough to drown out the signal going to the coils. As soon as I took off the splice, they worked.

In your mod, on the 4 pin connector, you connected the y/L (tach signal) back onto the 1V switching signal. So you can take the 1V signal and hook it up to pin 2B on the powerFC to get the tach to work with your mod.

I don't necessarily recommend doing all the wiring yourself either. Pretty big waste of time, but does save you 250$.


Oh, and I fixed the fan too. The problem was that I thoght the PFC put out a +12v ignition signal when the fans are supposed to be switched on. In reality, the pfc GROUNDS the 12v ign signal when the fans are supposed to come on. I just hooked up pin 3D to the ground of the fan relay, and gave the +12v the same signal as the main relay (so I could keep my fans on when the key is in the ON position) and it worked perfectly.

 

I suppose if your time is not worth anything, you saved money. I have had cars up an running in about 1.5 hours with our adapters, that includes modification to the coil. You can't tell me you didn't spend countless hours scratching your head and reading wiring diagrams to try to figure this out for yourself. I know because I developed the harnesses, and I am quite aware of the time I had into them.

All the info on the fan relay has been on our website for years.