13b auxilary mod
#1
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: rocky mount, NC
Posts: 40
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
13b auxilary mod
I just got my first rx7, and im in the process of doing all the little things I can to get some more horses. The usual better exhaust, TB bypass, smog pump delete, electric fan, no ac etc etc.
What I want to know if wiring my auxiliary ports to always be open, will this increase HP.
The basics line up: more air/fuel more power. But how would I go about doing this? I dont think that some bailing wire around the solenoid would do, but I might so that here in a bit just to test it.
BTW, when I got the car, it had a broken up cat, so IM pretty sure the auxiliary ports were always open.
Thanks in advance.
PS, this is my second rotary, so I kinda know my way around it.
What I want to know if wiring my auxiliary ports to always be open, will this increase HP.
The basics line up: more air/fuel more power. But how would I go about doing this? I dont think that some bailing wire around the solenoid would do, but I might so that here in a bit just to test it.
BTW, when I got the car, it had a broken up cat, so IM pretty sure the auxiliary ports were always open.
Thanks in advance.
PS, this is my second rotary, so I kinda know my way around it.
#3
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: rocky mount, NC
Posts: 40
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
also, how far should I advance the timing.... also to mention, I pre-mix my fuel for now, because im not sure if the oil injector system is working.. the guy said it didnt work, but even was skeptical.
Last edited by hvguy; 07-26-08 at 10:51 PM.
#4
Listen to King Diamond.
iTrader: (4)
There's a way to use the airpump to open them. I'm not exactly sure how to do it, but a quick search should turn up some results. I remember someone using an aftermarket air pump to open them too. Good luck with it. I need to find a way to get mine to work too .
#5
Hide the pinball machine
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Sammamish, wa
Posts: 461
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
If you want any hope of up-top power, you're going to want those ports working. There's a way to wire a small air pump to an rpm switch so they open without running the hoses to the exhaust. Check the link for detailed instructions.
http://www.rotaryresurrection.com/2n...elec6port.html
http://www.rotaryresurrection.com/2n...elec6port.html
#7
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: rocky mount, NC
Posts: 40
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
woah, never seen these before. and its affordable.
for those who said "wtf"
http://www.pineappleracing.com/index...PROD&ProdID=11
bwahahaha... a yoohoo belt I need that, mine screetches.
But that aside, how would I go about removing the port sleeve? or... is that how its done.
for those who said "wtf"
http://www.pineappleracing.com/index...PROD&ProdID=11
bwahahaha... a yoohoo belt I need that, mine screetches.
But that aside, how would I go about removing the port sleeve? or... is that how its done.
Trending Topics
#9
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: rocky mount, NC
Posts: 40
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I just got back from advancing and retarding my timing and I didnt notice a difference. I was shocked. Because when I advance the timing on my 4ac 1.5l its like it gains 20hp. I do not have a timing light, but I will have access to one tomorrow. I read around and found out that 24 leading, and 8 behind trailing is favorable. HOw in the hell do you adjust the trailing..... I didnt see any way when I popped off the top of the electronic dizzy.
#11
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: rocky mount, NC
Posts: 40
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
BUUTT!! I was covering my engine in degreaser a few minutes ago and I notice a little potentiometer on the passenger side in front of the strut tower next to the intake tube. What in the hell does it control.... I could barely make out a L and R on it, but thats it.
any idea?
#13
Full Member
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Coquitlam BC
Posts: 238
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
ditch the sleeves, thats the only way to get power
3 rotary guru's have told me that if you want n/a power:
Adam @ RX-7 specialties www.rx7.com
Chris from Eunos www.eunos.ca
Greg Staff Staff's Auto www.staffsauto.com
so yeah ditch em and block off the linkage holes with jb weld!
low end loss isnt as bad as everyone says
I run 6 ports all the time on my large s.p. and the sp is already killing my low end, i find it ok and i live on a mountain
3 rotary guru's have told me that if you want n/a power:
Adam @ RX-7 specialties www.rx7.com
Chris from Eunos www.eunos.ca
Greg Staff Staff's Auto www.staffsauto.com
so yeah ditch em and block off the linkage holes with jb weld!
low end loss isnt as bad as everyone says
I run 6 ports all the time on my large s.p. and the sp is already killing my low end, i find it ok and i live on a mountain
#14
Will drive for parts
iTrader: (4)
I've never seen any dyno results regarding the hp gain after putting the Pineapple Racing Aux port sleeves in, only "butt dyno" results. I have read quite a few reports of the pineapple part coming out of the sleeve and falling into the engine. Although, this can be solved by "putting them in right".
I've never used them before, but since I don't know anyone in person that has them I have to rely on what I have read on the forum. So I would do a search for threads regarding them and make up your own mind.
Anyways, the main cat is part of what you need to open your auxiliary ports. You can activate them a few other ways, but i'm too lazy to go into it or explain it. Do a search for "auxiliary port mod" in the 2nd gen tech section and the 2nd gen archives and you'll find them.
To take the sleeves out you have to take off the throttle body, the upper intake manifold, and the lower intake manifold. On the way a few vacuum lines, fuel lines, and water lines may break because they are 20 years old and you'll probably have to replace them. On top of that, you'll probably want to replace all the gaskets involved as well.
If you are dead set on running with no cats i'd suggest doing the aux port mod, get the racing beat 6 port road race header (http://www.racingbeat.com/resultset....tNumber=16128), or take off the actuators themselves and just wire the sleeves open.
I've never used them before, but since I don't know anyone in person that has them I have to rely on what I have read on the forum. So I would do a search for threads regarding them and make up your own mind.
Anyways, the main cat is part of what you need to open your auxiliary ports. You can activate them a few other ways, but i'm too lazy to go into it or explain it. Do a search for "auxiliary port mod" in the 2nd gen tech section and the 2nd gen archives and you'll find them.
To take the sleeves out you have to take off the throttle body, the upper intake manifold, and the lower intake manifold. On the way a few vacuum lines, fuel lines, and water lines may break because they are 20 years old and you'll probably have to replace them. On top of that, you'll probably want to replace all the gaskets involved as well.
If you are dead set on running with no cats i'd suggest doing the aux port mod, get the racing beat 6 port road race header (http://www.racingbeat.com/resultset....tNumber=16128), or take off the actuators themselves and just wire the sleeves open.
#15
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: rocky mount, NC
Posts: 40
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Isn't the 12a and 13b blocks pretty much the same? Im asking because when I got my other 12a, it came with a RB header and some insane big exhaust system with an evo muffler. Won't the 12a header fit my engine? The only problem I would see is the o2 sensor looking thing in the collector.
And is there anything I would have to change after I do a big street port? Ex: injectors, fuel map.... if there is one to be modified. And if not, how big can I go until I do have to change things.
Something like this.... has anybody used their templates before? Are they accurate?
http://www.pineappleracing.com/index...PROD&ProdID=98
And is there anything I would have to change after I do a big street port? Ex: injectors, fuel map.... if there is one to be modified. And if not, how big can I go until I do have to change things.
Something like this.... has anybody used their templates before? Are they accurate?
http://www.pineappleracing.com/index...PROD&ProdID=98
Last edited by hvguy; 07-27-08 at 05:41 AM.
#16
Engine, Not Motor
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Feb 2001
Location: London, Ontario, Canada
Posts: 29,789
Likes: 0
Received 108 Likes
on
91 Posts
ditch the sleeves, thats the only way to get power
3 rotary guru's have told me that if you want n/a power:
Adam @ RX-7 specialties www.rx7.com
Chris from Eunos www.eunos.ca
Greg Staff Staff's Auto www.staffsauto.com
so yeah ditch em and block off the linkage holes with jb weld!
low end loss isnt as bad as everyone says
3 rotary guru's have told me that if you want n/a power:
Adam @ RX-7 specialties www.rx7.com
Chris from Eunos www.eunos.ca
Greg Staff Staff's Auto www.staffsauto.com
so yeah ditch em and block off the linkage holes with jb weld!
low end loss isnt as bad as everyone says
It's huge. I've run cars both with and without working aux ports. The wired open ports cause such a loss in low end that the car is slower in the 1/4 mile.
This is universally known. Unless those gurus can provide dyno results, their advice should be ignored.
There's a reason that every NA 13B since '84 has been 6 port.
I run 6 ports all the time on my large s.p. and the sp is already killing my low end, i find it ok and i live on a mountain
#17
@ pipnorcali
I've never seen any dyno results regarding the hp gain after putting the Pineapple Racing Aux port sleeves in, only "butt dyno" results. I have read quite a few reports of the pineapple part coming out of the sleeve and falling into the engine. Although, this can be solved by "putting them in right".
I've never used them before, but since I don't know anyone in person that has them I have to rely on what I have read on the forum. So I would do a search for threads regarding them and make up your own mind.
Anyways, the main cat is part of what you need to open your auxiliary ports. You can activate them a few other ways, but i'm too lazy to go into it or explain it. Do a search for "auxiliary port mod" in the 2nd gen tech section and the 2nd gen archives and you'll find them.
To take the sleeves out you have to take off the throttle body, the upper intake manifold, and the lower intake manifold. On the way a few vacuum lines, fuel lines, and water lines may break because they are 20 years old and you'll probably have to replace them. On top of that, you'll probably want to replace all the gaskets involved as well.
If you are dead set on running with no cats i'd suggest doing the aux port mod, get the racing beat 6 port road race header (http://www.racingbeat.com/resultset....tNumber=16128), or take off the actuators themselves and just wire the sleeves open.
I've never used them before, but since I don't know anyone in person that has them I have to rely on what I have read on the forum. So I would do a search for threads regarding them and make up your own mind.
Anyways, the main cat is part of what you need to open your auxiliary ports. You can activate them a few other ways, but i'm too lazy to go into it or explain it. Do a search for "auxiliary port mod" in the 2nd gen tech section and the 2nd gen archives and you'll find them.
To take the sleeves out you have to take off the throttle body, the upper intake manifold, and the lower intake manifold. On the way a few vacuum lines, fuel lines, and water lines may break because they are 20 years old and you'll probably have to replace them. On top of that, you'll probably want to replace all the gaskets involved as well.
If you are dead set on running with no cats i'd suggest doing the aux port mod, get the racing beat 6 port road race header (http://www.racingbeat.com/resultset....tNumber=16128), or take off the actuators themselves and just wire the sleeves open.
ive used them on my last 2 fc's and they help a lil it (every liltle bit helps on these motors) i had Rob himself install the sleeves so i dont even worry they are not going anywhere.
#19
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: rocky mount, NC
Posts: 40
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I just took er out for a spin.... for real. But after I get about 75% through a doughnut the car dies... like all the fuel sloshes to 1 side of the tank Anyh easy fix for this?
Another prob, I washed the engine last night. But first I took the MAFS off,m but when I was trying to unplug the plug.... it wouldnt come out, so I took the 2 screws next to it off thinking it would release... I notice when I started to pull, there were still things connected, so I put it back together and finally took the clip out that was holding it.
So this morning when I went to start it up, it tried to run, but then died, and never tried again..... wtf. So I pulled the plugs thinking they were fouled and low and behold they were full of fuel. Not sure how I flooded an EFI engine, but I did. I cranked it over for a bit then replaced them, and it run.... but now it wont idle. I checked all the vac lines, but I could see anything I missed. I replaced the line that was on the bottom of the intake tube. But that was the only thing I took off.
Also- my 5th and 6th are wired open all the time if that helps in solving this dilemma.
I wont be here for much longer, im moving back to houston in about a month. =) NC isn't a place for me. Too many gnats and... uh there is nothing around me.
Another prob, I washed the engine last night. But first I took the MAFS off,m but when I was trying to unplug the plug.... it wouldnt come out, so I took the 2 screws next to it off thinking it would release... I notice when I started to pull, there were still things connected, so I put it back together and finally took the clip out that was holding it.
So this morning when I went to start it up, it tried to run, but then died, and never tried again..... wtf. So I pulled the plugs thinking they were fouled and low and behold they were full of fuel. Not sure how I flooded an EFI engine, but I did. I cranked it over for a bit then replaced them, and it run.... but now it wont idle. I checked all the vac lines, but I could see anything I missed. I replaced the line that was on the bottom of the intake tube. But that was the only thing I took off.
Also- my 5th and 6th are wired open all the time if that helps in solving this dilemma.
I wont be here for much longer, im moving back to houston in about a month. =) NC isn't a place for me. Too many gnats and... uh there is nothing around me.
#21
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: rocky mount, NC
Posts: 40
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
wtf, rocky mount is so remote, its considered out of the US
back on topic: nwhy does my triangle idle at 2k
#24
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: rocky mount, NC
Posts: 40
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Fixed... im an idiot. I bypassed the TB coolant lines.... and the fast idle relies on the coolant temp to tell it to slow the hell down. I hooked the TB back up and it dropped to around 700, closer to 1k tho.
NOW for the next issue, how big of a port job can I do, so that I dont have to get bigger injectors.... Anybody have any idea? And after porting, is there anything else I have to do to the fuel system.
And how come my engine stalls after half of a doughnut? "I usually cut my doughnuts to the left if that matters..." If I goto the right, the inside tire spins. 1 wheel peel ftl
AND! does anybody know what gear ratio the 88 GXL comes with? 5 speed of course... What would you prefer? I dont know much about ratios, but I can calculate em. And ive done 3 3rd member swaps on my 4runner, and welded the diff in my ae86. I have heard that the right ratio makes all the difference.
I went on the highway and I noticed that 5th gear is pretty much useless, unless your going at a steady 180mph. Even then, its setting at 2.5k lol.
Im thinking I need some higher gears. And after I fix my weird sideways fuel delivery problem, im going to see if I like drifting this. So the ratio should be better matched for drifting...... which in my eyes, it is. 1st and second go a loooong ways. I think 2nd goes to around 60? and 3rd goes to about 100? sounds right?
LMK what you all think
NOW for the next issue, how big of a port job can I do, so that I dont have to get bigger injectors.... Anybody have any idea? And after porting, is there anything else I have to do to the fuel system.
And how come my engine stalls after half of a doughnut? "I usually cut my doughnuts to the left if that matters..." If I goto the right, the inside tire spins. 1 wheel peel ftl
AND! does anybody know what gear ratio the 88 GXL comes with? 5 speed of course... What would you prefer? I dont know much about ratios, but I can calculate em. And ive done 3 3rd member swaps on my 4runner, and welded the diff in my ae86. I have heard that the right ratio makes all the difference.
I went on the highway and I noticed that 5th gear is pretty much useless, unless your going at a steady 180mph. Even then, its setting at 2.5k lol.
Im thinking I need some higher gears. And after I fix my weird sideways fuel delivery problem, im going to see if I like drifting this. So the ratio should be better matched for drifting...... which in my eyes, it is. 1st and second go a loooong ways. I think 2nd goes to around 60? and 3rd goes to about 100? sounds right?
LMK what you all think
Last edited by hvguy; 07-27-08 at 09:48 PM.
#25
Former Moderator. RIP Icemark.
NOW for the next issue, how big of a port job can I do, so that I dont have to get bigger injectors.... Anybody have any idea? And after porting, is there anything else I have to do to the fuel system.
And how come my engine stalls after half of a doughnut? "I usually cut my doughnuts to the left if that matters..." If I goto the right, the inside tire spins. 1 wheel peel ftl
AND! does anybody know what gear ratio the 88 GXL comes with? 5 speed of course... What would you prefer? I dont know much about ratios, but I can calculate em. And ive done 3 3rd member swaps on my 4runner, and welded the diff in my ae86. I have heard that the right ratio makes all the difference.
I went on the highway and I noticed that 5th gear is pretty much useless, unless your going at a steady 180mph. Even then, its setting at 2.5k lol.
Im thinking I need some higher gears. And after I fix my weird sideways fuel delivery problem, im going to see if I like drifting this. So the ratio should be better matched for drifting...... which in my eyes, it is. 1st and second go a loooong ways. I think 2nd goes to around 60? and 3rd goes to about 100? sounds right?
LMK what you all think
I went on the highway and I noticed that 5th gear is pretty much useless, unless your going at a steady 180mph. Even then, its setting at 2.5k lol.
Im thinking I need some higher gears. And after I fix my weird sideways fuel delivery problem, im going to see if I like drifting this. So the ratio should be better matched for drifting...... which in my eyes, it is. 1st and second go a loooong ways. I think 2nd goes to around 60? and 3rd goes to about 100? sounds right?
LMK what you all think
and in fact I don't think you read any of the helpful sticky threads... or you wouldn't be bumping... because bumps are not allowed in the 2nd gen tech section on this board... so your bump has been deleted.