I just got my first rx7, and im in the process of doing all the little things I can to get some more horses. The usual better exhaust, TB bypass, smog pump delete, electric fan, no ac etc etc.

What I want to know if wiring my auxiliary ports to always be open, will this increase HP.
The basics line up: more air/fuel more power. But how would I go about doing this? I dont think that some bailing wire around the solenoid would do, but I might so that here in a bit just to test it.

BTW, when I got the car, it had a broken up cat, so IM pretty sure the auxiliary ports were always open.


Thanks in advance.

PS, this is my second rotary, so I kinda know my way around it.

 

Wiring the ports open will give you the same amount of power up top, but you'll lose lots of low-end. If your aux port system works, don't mess with it.

 

I removed the cat, so they dont work now. Any way to fix them? without putting a restrictive cat back in...

also, how far should I advance the timing.... also to mention, I pre-mix my fuel for now, because im not sure if the oil injector system is working.. the guy said it didnt work, but even was skeptical.

 

There's a way to use the airpump to open them. I'm not exactly sure how to do it, but a quick search should turn up some results. I remember someone using an aftermarket air pump to open them too. Good luck with it. I need to find a way to get mine to work too .

 

If you want any hope of up-top power, you're going to want those ports working. There's a way to wire a small air pump to an rpm switch so they open without running the hoses to the exhaust. Check the link for detailed instructions.

http://www.rotaryresurrection.com/2n...elec6port.html

 

slap some 6 port sleeves in there for a few more ponies

 

woah, never seen these before. and its affordable.

for those who said "wtf"
http://www.pineappleracing.com/index...PROD&ProdID=11

bwahahaha... a yoohoo belt I need that, mine screetches.

But that aside, how would I go about removing the port sleeve? or... is that how its done.

 

Theres a good writeup in the archives on how to run them off your airpump, its got lots of good pics too

 

awesome, ill do a search..

I just got back from advancing and retarding my timing and I didnt notice a difference. I was shocked. Because when I advance the timing on my 4ac 1.5l its like it gains 20hp. I do not have a timing light, but I will have access to one tomorrow. I read around and found out that 24 leading, and 8 behind trailing is favorable. HOw in the hell do you adjust the trailing..... I didnt see any way when I popped off the top of the electronic dizzy.

 

I made my 5th and 6th ports work using my air pump. Its really simple and cheap. Very well worth the $30

 

yeah, I just got done reading up on it, its simple enough.


BUUTT!! I was covering my engine in degreaser a few minutes ago and I notice a little potentiometer on the passenger side in front of the strut tower next to the intake tube. What in the hell does it control.... I could barely make out a L and R on it, but thats it.


any idea?

 

I believe what you've discovered is the Lean --> Rich adjustment screw. Its one step in a convoluted series used to adjust the idle.

Pick up a haynes manual or FSM and it'll tell you all about it.

 

ditch the sleeves, thats the only way to get power

3 rotary guru's have told me that if you want n/a power:

Adam @ RX-7 specialties www.rx7.com
Chris from Eunos www.eunos.ca
Greg Staff Staff's Auto www.staffsauto.com

so yeah ditch em and block off the linkage holes with jb weld!

low end loss isnt as bad as everyone says

I run 6 ports all the time on my large s.p. and the sp is already killing my low end, i find it ok and i live on a mountain

 

I've never seen any dyno results regarding the hp gain after putting the Pineapple Racing Aux port sleeves in, only "butt dyno" results. I have read quite a few reports of the pineapple part coming out of the sleeve and falling into the engine. Although, this can be solved by "putting them in right".

I've never used them before, but since I don't know anyone in person that has them I have to rely on what I have read on the forum. So I would do a search for threads regarding them and make up your own mind.

Anyways, the main cat is part of what you need to open your auxiliary ports. You can activate them a few other ways, but i'm too lazy to go into it or explain it. Do a search for "auxiliary port mod" in the 2nd gen tech section and the 2nd gen archives and you'll find them.

To take the sleeves out you have to take off the throttle body, the upper intake manifold, and the lower intake manifold. On the way a few vacuum lines, fuel lines, and water lines may break because they are 20 years old and you'll probably have to replace them. On top of that, you'll probably want to replace all the gaskets involved as well.

If you are dead set on running with no cats i'd suggest doing the aux port mod, get the racing beat 6 port road race header (http://www.racingbeat.com/resultset....tNumber=16128), or take off the actuators themselves and just wire the sleeves open.

 

Isn't the 12a and 13b blocks pretty much the same? Im asking because when I got my other 12a, it came with a RB header and some insane big exhaust system with an evo muffler. Won't the 12a header fit my engine? The only problem I would see is the o2 sensor looking thing in the collector.

And is there anything I would have to change after I do a big street port? Ex: injectors, fuel map.... if there is one to be modified. And if not, how big can I go until I do have to change things.

Something like this.... has anybody used their templates before? Are they accurate?
http://www.pineappleracing.com/index...PROD&ProdID=98

 

It's huge. I've run cars both with and without working aux ports. The wired open ports cause such a loss in low end that the car is slower in the 1/4 mile.

This is universally known. Unless those gurus can provide dyno results, their advice should be ignored.

There's a reason that every NA 13B since '84 has been 6 port.

Anything that qualifies as a properly done street port should not "kill" low end torque.

 

ive used them on my last 2 fc's and they help a lil it (every liltle bit helps on these motors) i had Rob himself install the sleeves so i dont even worry they are not going anywhere.

 

nothing to add, just wanted to say hey to another nc'er

 

I just took er out for a spin.... for real. But after I get about 75% through a doughnut the car dies... like all the fuel sloshes to 1 side of the tank Anyh easy fix for this?

Another prob, I washed the engine last night. But first I took the MAFS off,m but when I was trying to unplug the plug.... it wouldnt come out, so I took the 2 screws next to it off thinking it would release... I notice when I started to pull, there were still things connected, so I put it back together and finally took the clip out that was holding it.
So this morning when I went to start it up, it tried to run, but then died, and never tried again..... wtf. So I pulled the plugs thinking they were fouled and low and behold they were full of fuel. Not sure how I flooded an EFI engine, but I did. I cranked it over for a bit then replaced them, and it run.... but now it wont idle. I checked all the vac lines, but I could see anything I missed. I replaced the line that was on the bottom of the intake tube. But that was the only thing I took off.

Also- my 5th and 6th are wired open all the time if that helps in solving this dilemma.

I wont be here for much longer, im moving back to houston in about a month. =) NC isn't a place for me. Too many gnats and... uh there is nothing around me.

 

dangit! lol

well, that's what you get. whenever i goto rocky mount for work, i feel like they're 20 years behind the rest of the world

 

Ugh, I hear ya. Back in houston damn near everything is open 24 hours, but here, we have a 24 hour walmart and a waffle house. Plus when I call 611 on my cell, it says "I see you are calling from an international location, for information on receiving your voicemails, press #"

wtf, rocky mount is so remote, its considered out of the US

back on topic: nwhy does my triangle idle at 2k

 

heh... i almost thought the title said "13b reliability mod"...


my bad...

 

Vacuum leak(s)?

 

Fixed... im an idiot. I bypassed the TB coolant lines.... and the fast idle relies on the coolant temp to tell it to slow the hell down. I hooked the TB back up and it dropped to around 700, closer to 1k tho.


NOW for the next issue, how big of a port job can I do, so that I dont have to get bigger injectors.... Anybody have any idea? And after porting, is there anything else I have to do to the fuel system.


And how come my engine stalls after half of a doughnut? "I usually cut my doughnuts to the left if that matters..." If I goto the right, the inside tire spins. 1 wheel peel ftl


AND! does anybody know what gear ratio the 88 GXL comes with? 5 speed of course... What would you prefer? I dont know much about ratios, but I can calculate em. And ive done 3 3rd member swaps on my 4runner, and welded the diff in my ae86. I have heard that the right ratio makes all the difference.
I went on the highway and I noticed that 5th gear is pretty much useless, unless your going at a steady 180mph. Even then, its setting at 2.5k lol.

Im thinking I need some higher gears. And after I fix my weird sideways fuel delivery problem, im going to see if I like drifting this. So the ratio should be better matched for drifting...... which in my eyes, it is. 1st and second go a loooong ways. I think 2nd goes to around 60? and 3rd goes to about 100? sounds right?

LMK what you all think

 

Yep, shouldn't be hacking up the car without knowing what you are doing.

stock injectors and fuel pump are fine for up to around 220-225 HP Considerably more than you will make on a non turbo using side porting.

because you didn't read the FAQ for FC sticky thread or your gas tank baffles are rusted out (but I would bet you didn't read the FAQ for FC sticky thread and read the FAQ that talks about stalling when turning left).

again gear ratios are covered in the sticky threads... did you read the one that said standard and options... I doubt it too. And different gears??? Are you planning on professionally drifting????


and in fact I don't think you read any of the helpful sticky threads... or you wouldn't be bumping... because bumps are not allowed in the 2nd gen tech section on this board... so your bump has been deleted.