130 Amp Alternator Sweetness
#126
Banned. I got OWNED!!!
My FD alt claimed to have been tested @ 120A. I never verivied it though. If I still have problems with the new pulley setup I will.
That's ALOT of wire! I generally use 2 ga with the exception of one project that called for 1/0
#135
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#137
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Hey Jack, how well do you think the Taurus alt would relocate to the P/S bracket? MY TMIC won't let me squeeze a Taurus alt in. I've got zero experience relocating alts so I need to educate myself more. But I have a spare P/S-A/C bracket lying around. I want to keep A/C cause I'm a wimp like that. I've been wanting to do the P/S removal mod anyway. Any advice while I do some reading/learning?
#138
Hey Jack, how well do you think the Taurus alt would relocate to the P/S bracket? MY TMIC won't let me squeeze a Taurus alt in. I've got zero experience relocating alts so I need to educate myself more. But I have a spare P/S-A/C bracket lying around. I want to keep A/C cause I'm a wimp like that. I've been wanting to do the P/S removal mod anyway. Any advice while I do some reading/learning?
Just off the cuff, I think you would be better off moving the TMIC to the front of the A/C condenser than attempting to machine a mount on the P/S bracket. Moving TMIC to the front would increase the effectiveness and reduce heat soak. Then, you could mount anything you want to the alt mount.
#140
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#142
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A close friend of mine almost bought an '06 WK Overland which was a REALLY nice rig. You could really see the Benz influence. Personally my lifted 5spd XJ is plently comfy or me
FD pulleys would only work with the FD waterpump and housing as the e-shaft pulley is spaced farther out than the FC/RE pulleys
FD pulleys would only work with the FD waterpump and housing as the e-shaft pulley is spaced farther out than the FC/RE pulleys
#144
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I have a choice of getting a 1 wire or a 3 wire version of the tempo 170A alternator. The seller has been awesome, helping me out tons. I I have an FD alternator in my car now, but I'm sure the regulator is shot from incorrect past install.
Does anybody know for SURE 100% how I should wire in the alternator for the tempo without a stock harness. (I have a haltech standalone.) or should I just get the single wire? I like the idea of the single wire, but I don't like the idea of sub 14v idle and such. I will obviously be needing to install larger gauge wires and such, and getting a smaller diameter pulley so that idle RPMs is 2000+ instead of 1,440.
What do you guys think? 1 wire or 3 wire?
Does anybody know for SURE 100% how I should wire in the alternator for the tempo without a stock harness. (I have a haltech standalone.) or should I just get the single wire? I like the idea of the single wire, but I don't like the idea of sub 14v idle and such. I will obviously be needing to install larger gauge wires and such, and getting a smaller diameter pulley so that idle RPMs is 2000+ instead of 1,440.
What do you guys think? 1 wire or 3 wire?
#145
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Just read up here, I am for sure going 3 wire, I just need to figure out how to wire it in. http://www.madelectrical.com/electri...hreewire.shtml
#146
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***edit***
here are a couple pictures off the internet... you can run it like in the pictures...
but I ran mine :
The green/red wire goes to the amp/volt meter
the yellow/white should actually go to the ignition on/run
and the white black loops back into the alternator as shown in the pics
here are a couple pictures off the internet... you can run it like in the pictures...
but I ran mine :
The green/red wire goes to the amp/volt meter
the yellow/white should actually go to the ignition on/run
and the white black loops back into the alternator as shown in the pics
Last edited by BASTARD; 03-25-09 at 10:56 PM. Reason: added pics
#147
***edit***
here are a couple pictures off the internet... you can run it like in the pictures...
but I ran mine :
The green/red wire goes to the amp/volt meter
the yellow/white should actually go to the ignition on/run
and the white black loops back into the alternator as shown in the pics
here are a couple pictures off the internet... you can run it like in the pictures...
but I ran mine :
The green/red wire goes to the amp/volt meter
the yellow/white should actually go to the ignition on/run
and the white black loops back into the alternator as shown in the pics
I would run it to the positive post of the battery given that TweakGames standalone has a standalone. Put a 10 amp fuse for safety and call it a day.
#148
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Oh! These things are the 3G alternator? Crap. I read while browsing the web that their max RPM is 18,000 rpm. In order for my 4.5 inch crank to make the alternator do 2,400 rpm at idle (900) I had to get a 1.66 inch pulley. But at 7000 engine rpm, the alt is spinning at 19,000. At 7500 21,000. Crap.
#149
Oh! These things are the 3G alternator? Crap. I read while browsing the web that their max RPM is 18,000 rpm. In order for my 4.5 inch crank to make the alternator do 2,400 rpm at idle (900) I had to get a 1.66 inch pulley. But at 7000 engine rpm, the alt is spinning at 19,000. At 7500 21,000. Crap.
On that page you linked they strongly warn about low output at idle. They even tell you that they will put a smaller pulley on to solve the problem. They recommend a 3:1 ratio of crank pulley diameter to alt pulley diameter. My crank is 4.5 and my alt pulley is 2.5, 4.5:2.5=1.8:1 ratio! Therefore, at 8000 rpm, my alt is turning at 14400 rpm. At idle, 800 rpm my alt is turning 1440 rpm. These guys say their amperage drops off 'substantially' below 2400 rpm. The ratio they recommend will turn the alternator 2400rpm at idle, but at 8000 redline it will turn it at 24000 rpm.
You have been warned several times!!!
Seriously my friend, good luck and let me know how the HO alternator works out.
You have been warned several times!!!
Seriously my friend, good luck and let me know how the HO alternator works out.