130 Amp Alternator Sweetness
04-30-12, 07:17 PM
#226
Jack, what you said was dead on..not that I doubted your advice. Just figured I'd report back. I was at my parents yesterday and let my father's 91 vert idle at around 500rpm. His OEM volt meter read 14v the whole time.
I've got my engine apart to have the injectors serviced so I can't test my alt with a multitester. But I'm stumped in that all of my alts have shown the same just over 12v at idle. For that reason I haven't noticed any different behavior from my OEM S5, FD and modded 140 amp S5. For the time being and foreseeable future my alt is going to remain the same. I know someone posted with a Taurus alt under their TMIC but I simply don't know how they did it. My FD wouldn't fit properly. I'd like to eventually go VMIC and at that time I'd gladly do a Taurus alt...but who knows if or when that will happen.
If I'm understanding the research I've done on aftermarket pulleys. The RB pulley and others are for slowing down the alt for high rpm/racing purposes. The exact opposite of what is needed for a H.O. alternator. Guess I'll have to hold rpms up a touch in traffic until I find a pulley.
I've got my engine apart to have the injectors serviced so I can't test my alt with a multitester. But I'm stumped in that all of my alts have shown the same just over 12v at idle. For that reason I haven't noticed any different behavior from my OEM S5, FD and modded 140 amp S5. For the time being and foreseeable future my alt is going to remain the same. I know someone posted with a Taurus alt under their TMIC but I simply don't know how they did it. My FD wouldn't fit properly. I'd like to eventually go VMIC and at that time I'd gladly do a Taurus alt...but who knows if or when that will happen.
If I'm understanding the research I've done on aftermarket pulleys. The RB pulley and others are for slowing down the alt for high rpm/racing purposes. The exact opposite of what is needed for a H.O. alternator. Guess I'll have to hold rpms up a touch in traffic until I find a pulley.
What if it reads wrong?
Confirm the volts with a volt meter. The you know if you can trust that gauge.
While you are waiting for those injectors to come back, you could also test your battery to see if it reads 12.6 volts. If not, then put a charger on it and charge it. Check the volts. Now it should read 12.6v.
04-30-12, 07:29 PM
#227
It occurs to me there is one thing all those alternators had in common-the voltmeter on the dash.
What if it reads wrong?
Confirm the volts with a volt meter. The you know if you can trust that gauge.
While you are waiting for those injectors to come back, you could also test your battery to see if it reads 12.6 volts. If not, then put a charger on it and charge it. Check the volts. Now it should read 12.6v.
What if it reads wrong?
Confirm the volts with a volt meter. The you know if you can trust that gauge.
While you are waiting for those injectors to come back, you could also test your battery to see if it reads 12.6 volts. If not, then put a charger on it and charge it. Check the volts. Now it should read 12.6v.
04-30-12, 10:30 PM
#228
Right, It must be that, but it's happened in two different turbo verts. The battery is sitting dead right now, I was working on installing a new gauge as well as rewiring some existing ones..had the doors open all day and killed my battery. Once the injectors are back and the car is drivable I'll charge the battery.
05-01-12, 04:39 AM
#229
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Kind of a late night stupid question, But im sittin here making a shopping list...What size fuse would be appropriate for the Yellow wire to Power? In my diagram i had it fused, I was thinking a 30 amp in line fuse? 10 guage wire?
08-16-14, 09:46 PM
#232
Bringing this one back, but for something relevant. Has anyone used a 94-95 SHO alt? It has a saddle mount like ours. I'm guessing that the saddle legs sit wider and it would need spacers to make it fit. I was hoping to find someone who has used this alt before I buy and try.
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08-17-14, 11:41 AM
#234
I even tried to get an online rebuild retailer to measure one they have for sale, they didn't go for that idea.
08-17-14, 01:48 PM
#235
Already tried that at Advanced Auto Parts, it's a dealership only part. I've been at the local yards and they all pull the alts before they go into the yards. I'll make some calls to see if they have that alt, but I haven't seen an SHO in any of the yards for a while.
I even tried to get an online rebuild retailer to measure one they have for sale, they didn't go for that idea.
I even tried to get an online rebuild retailer to measure one they have for sale, they didn't go for that idea.
Someone has one you can get your hands on.
08-17-14, 02:08 PM
#236
Though I guess I could order it, measure it and return it if it doesn't work....or I can find an OEM used one. But at least at Advanced it was a $300 OEM part.
I let my fingers do the walking, neither Oreilly or Autozone have them on the shelves. I can get one from Autozone for $150, but I'm gonna check junkyard parts stores Monday to see if they've got a used one on the shelf.
08-24-14, 02:04 PM
#238
I brought the alternator home from the shop. Only way I could get my hands on the alternator is to buy it and have it shipped to the store.
For the record it's the alt off a 94-95 Taurus SHO with 3.0 liter engine. NOT the 3.2 liter engine. Store manager told me only 1% of SHO's had this engine.
It looks like some washers as spacers would allow it to be mounted and moved fore and aft for belt alignment. Though for me I'd have to get another strut bar or loose the strut bar.
Irony has it that I doubt I'm going this route at this time, at least in the short term future. I'm tired of trying to make an efan and alt combo work when the clutch fan has never given me any problems. I'm not giving up on going efan and alt swap but A am popping the clutch fan and shroud back on till I get my hands on a pulley and strut bar that will work with the Taurus alt.
For the record it's the alt off a 94-95 Taurus SHO with 3.0 liter engine. NOT the 3.2 liter engine. Store manager told me only 1% of SHO's had this engine.
It looks like some washers as spacers would allow it to be mounted and moved fore and aft for belt alignment. Though for me I'd have to get another strut bar or loose the strut bar.
Irony has it that I doubt I'm going this route at this time, at least in the short term future. I'm tired of trying to make an efan and alt combo work when the clutch fan has never given me any problems. I'm not giving up on going efan and alt swap but A am popping the clutch fan and shroud back on till I get my hands on a pulley and strut bar that will work with the Taurus alt.
01-01-15, 12:26 PM
#241
01-03-15, 10:58 PM
#244
My setup is an old MazdaRacing.com six rib pulley set on the eshaft and water pump. The alternator was underdriven too much unless I drove over 2500 RPM everywhere. I ran across a 20B alternator deal that had the right size pulley although it is 7 rib. It works, and I got a bolt on 120 amp alternator upgrade in the process.
01-06-15, 08:47 AM
#246
03-14-15, 08:21 AM
#247
I brought the alternator home from the shop. Only way I could get my hands on the alternator is to buy it and have it shipped to the store.
For the record it's the alt off a 94-95 Taurus SHO with 3.0 liter engine. NOT the 3.2 liter engine. Store manager told me only 1% of SHO's had this engine.
It looks like some washers as spacers would allow it to be mounted and moved fore and aft for belt alignment. Though for me I'd have to get another strut bar or loose the strut bar.
Irony has it that I doubt I'm going this route at this time, at least in the short term future. I'm tired of trying to make an efan and alt combo work when the clutch fan has never given me any problems. I'm not giving up on going efan and alt swap but A am popping the clutch fan and shroud back on till I get my hands on a pulley and strut bar that will work with the Taurus alt.
For the record it's the alt off a 94-95 Taurus SHO with 3.0 liter engine. NOT the 3.2 liter engine. Store manager told me only 1% of SHO's had this engine.
It looks like some washers as spacers would allow it to be mounted and moved fore and aft for belt alignment. Though for me I'd have to get another strut bar or loose the strut bar.
Irony has it that I doubt I'm going this route at this time, at least in the short term future. I'm tired of trying to make an efan and alt combo work when the clutch fan has never given me any problems. I'm not giving up on going efan and alt swap but A am popping the clutch fan and shroud back on till I get my hands on a pulley and strut bar that will work with the Taurus alt.
Update us on how did the SHO alternator work out? I'm thinking of alternator solutions that work with TMIC for my 10th Anny project.
Thanks!
Jack
03-14-15, 11:31 AM
#248
NA-BOOSTIN
Use 13BRE pulleys for a no underdrive setup. They aren't easy to come by. I think Atkins sells a set that is slightly underdriven. My setup is an old MazdaRacing.com six rib pulley set on the eshaft and water pump. The alternator was underdriven too much unless I drove over 2500 RPM everywhere. I ran across a 20B alternator deal that had the right size pulley although it is 7 rib. It works, and I got a bolt on 120 amp alternator upgrade in the process.
Just did the swap about a month ago . See nothing but 13.5 to 13.7 with everything on ( not much lol)
