I had a thread started on the spark plug wire arangement, but will list the entire history here and hopefully can come up with something.

The car is a 10AE with about 45k orig miles on the clock. The car has been sitting in my parents garage for over a year now as I slowly work on my modifications. During which time I bought a house, a few cars...etc..etc. Basically took waaaaay to long to do the winter mods.

This round of mods included doing the parallel fuel setup using an aeromotive FPR, -8 feed that splits to -6 at the rails and a -6 return. During this time, I took the opertunity to remove the rats nest and everything else on the manifold (BAC, EGR, Cold start..etc). The TB is stripped of all cushion pots so that it could clear the FPR that is mounted on the firewall. It is unported with the secondary throttle blades in place as I will eventually switch to S5 manifolds when I do the microtech. Basically I wanted to limp it from OH to MI w/o towing.

Here's what lead up to the problem:

When the fuel system was completed, the lines were disconnected through out the system and fuel was flushed through the lines to make sure any particles from cutting the lines was not introduced into the rails. When I pressurized the entire system, I noticed that if I had my wrench on the primary rail (closest to the housings) I could get the fuel the hiss from the top of the injector. Okay, so I ordered all new o-rings (two on the top and the one on the base). The original one on the base was very hard and somewhat stuck. When it removed, the tip of the injector seemed to pop loose such that it can be twisted like you were trying to tighten or loosen it, but did not come out of the injector body. The alternator wire also touched out to the block as I forgot the battery was still connected. It poped my circuit breaker that I have in the storage bin for the batt. In the few seconds prior to the breaker tripping it sounded like the fuel system or something was trying to run when this happened (though the fuel pump was unplugged from it's connector). All fuses seem fine.

I tried to start the car a few hours later and nothing doing. It cranks over fine, gets spark and the tach bounces. However, it doesn't even catch, not even a sputter. When I pulled the plug after trying to crank it, I noticed that they were completely dry and did not smell of gas.

My thoughts:
-Motor is not getting fuel at all (can hear fuel running through the lines and confirm 38 psi at the FPR).

-Perhaps when the tips of the injectors came loose, they are broken and need replaced/services.

-Old gas...again would expect a sputter, burp or bang

-need to check ECU codes<--though what would prevent the injectors from firing?

-Forgot to plug something in (AFM is in, boost sensor, tps, intake air temp)

-TPS waay out of adjustment with everything removed (would have thought it would at least make an attempt to start).

-Apex seal stuck from sitting (motor was cranked by hand a few times each month and this car never had a flooding/starting problem) I would also think even with low compression it would at least bite a little on the startup.

Currently:

The car will be towed to my new house in MI this weekend, where I will pull the manifold back off and start double checking. All I know is I've got a BUNCH of unused harnesses with all the emissions controls..etc removed. I'll for sure check the operation of the injectors per the service manual. If anyone has some tips on what would prevent startup, please enlighten me

I want to get the car running with the stock setup first before I go ahead with the standalone install. Once that's good, I'll pull the turbo and modify the wastegate and then procede with the computer.

 

Guess I stumped everyone...that or my plan is solid.

It's just weird, I've never really seen anything quite like this.

 

if i had my 7 already, im sure i would reply to ur message with some helpful hints, but im pretty sure someone in here has bound to hit this problem already considering its an almost 20 year old car = )

 

Lots of things crossed my feeble mind as I was reading the novel. Let's see if I can remember them all, lol...

It's not normal to use a return line that's smaller than the pressure line, in any hydraulic system (-8 pressure to a -6 return). Don't know if it would cause any problems, it's just abnormal...

You can check the injectors' electrical circuits for seviceability by noting voltage at the proper ECU pins with the key on (voltage to ground). You can also check the rear rotor housing ground (for continuity) from the ECU, since that acts as the injectors' ground, once the ECU switches them "on". You did reattach that housing ground when you pulled the rats nest off, right?

Don't forget you also need good CAS inputs to fire the injectors...

 

try kicking it... it always works

 

Stumped at why anyone would destroy the resale value of a 10AE with about 45k orig miles on the clock.

 

Why does everyone assume people with Rx7's are going to resale them?

 

Lol, no joke- most of us older guys will be our cars' last owners

 

Sorry for the long post, I like to leave no stones unturned.

*light bulb*
good idea...perhaps I unbolted the ground wire for the injectors then. Didn't think of that. You say it's located on the rear housing. A bunch of stuff was unbolted during this period and having taken quite some time, there is a VERY good chance I forgot to bolt down one of the ground terminals.

The -8 is to feed the dual -6's that split right about where the stock fuel filter was. So it's kinda like a dual exhaust...big into 2 smaller. Then the return can be smaller as the car is using the fuel.

As for Modding the 10AE, welp...I wanted to start with a clean, low mileage car. We've had this one in the family for 5 years since 18k miles from the original owner. I like how the 10AE looks and the mods are tasteful enough that I could go back to stock if I wanted. The only holes cut were for the FMIC and my kill switch panel behind the plate...here's some pics.



just before the FMIC install


Batt kill switch and charge terminals

 

What kind of lip is on the front?

 

I believe it is known as the MikeL lip (as it was made and sold by a member on the other forum MikeL).

Anyway, back to the problem. Although I'm limited on electrical knowledge, unlike mr. WAYNE88N/A, I would figure it is also an injector grounding issue. I doubt it's related to the CAS though, since I always thought that to get spark, you would need input from the CAS as well?

 

Yeah, that's the MikeL lip. Still on the fence about painting it to match.

The car will be up here saturday and I'll start the diagnostics. Till that time I'll just wrench on the 95 impala wagon conversion or the 68 prostreet chevelle. I've really got a sickness and it needs to stop

 

Having the exact same issue right now. I did a similar line of upgrades. I'm to the point where I think it's the harness itself. You can read my rather lengthy investigation right here:

https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generation-specific-1986-1992-17/injector-fuel-issues-stock-harness-issue-364734/