NYsNumba1Man

iTrader: (1)

Sorry about the spam of new threads, but i want to get a couple of problems taken care of asap

i'm around 97k now and i'm wondering what kind of things i should look for/do for maintence. I was thinking about changing all belts because sometimes in the cold they chirp a tiny (belt dressing doesn't really help)

Any other key things i should look out for?

BrettLinton7

iTrader: (33)

Change the fluid in your transmission and diff, flush the coolant, change the plugs and wires, and seafoam it

NYsNumba1Man

iTrader: (1)

I was thinking about tranny and diff fluid. Any recommendations on which brands to use?

Flushed coolant over the summer (still had the original coolant from mazda O_O you can imagine how black and disgusting it was.)

What plugs are good? I was thinking about NGK's. And which wires? I don't think my current wire are oem.

I have another thread about seafoaming and i'm not sure if i should do it or not.....

Thanks for your advice though

satch

iTrader: (1)

NGK's are fine and Magnacor makes good plug wires (Mazda trix), and it would be a good idea to change all the vacuum and coolant hoses, fuel filter, fuel hoses, injector servicing along with new grommets, air filter, redo the grounding system, and of course oil and filter change.

SirCygnus

iTrader: (1)

normal maintenance.

REV THE PIS OUT OF IT.

NYsNumba1Man

iTrader: (1)

Are there specific ngks i should be looking for? http://mazdatrix.com/ign-3.htm
Which would you recommend?

I don't want to mess with vacuum lines myself. How much would a shop charge to replace them all?

thejallenator

iTrader: (14)

not sure what a shop would charge but if you took off the uim and just did them one by one shouldnt be an issue. and the s4 vacuum diagram was a piece of cake to read. really not that many lines to get scared of.

NYsNumba1Man

iTrader: (1)

Can you send me said diagram? I have my rats nest and all other stock things in place btw. I've been meaning to replace my vacuum lines too, i have a vacuum leak somewhere which is making my car idle like **** at 600?ish and misfire.

satch

iTrader: (1)

The vacuum lines are exceedingly cheap and easy to do. One at a time and before you know it they are all replaced. When removing the rubber hoses all you have to do is take a razor blade and cut a slit or two in them and they pull right off. Removing them this way makes it easy especially when removing them from the emission solenoids because some of them have brittle plastic nozzles which could break off if done with pliers. You could buy the hose for about $10 or so at the local auto parts store.

I run a pair of 6's and 8's (sparkplugs) on my car but I do mostly city driving while others might use 7's and 9's.

satch

iTrader: (1)

The hell with the diagram as doing them one at a time it is not necessary on any level. Keep things simple!

NYsNumba1Man

iTrader: (1)

But my problem is that i don't even know what vacuum lines look like or where they're located. I tell you i'm rotarded. hahaha, thats why i don't want to do it myself.

I've never taken my 7 to the track, its only driven around the city and sometimes 10 miles of highway every weekend?

Should i run 6s and 8s as well or the stock 7s and 9s?

satch

iTrader: (1)

Except for the two hoses related to the brake booster, all of the vacuum hoses are the same size except for one located on the top front of the throttle body and the ones for the BAC (one) and Air Bypass solenoid (two of them) which are fairly thick in diameter and are much larger than the rest as I believe the small diameter vacuum hoses which represents more than 90% of the vacuum hoses (easy) are 5/32 inner diameter.

KhanArtisT

iTrader: (2)

+1. You don't have to replace the vacuum lines...get it pressure tested or have a qualified person check out the leak. The OEM lines are excellent quality from my experience. I would personally rather keep them and replace as necessary than replace them with some improperly sized, non molded, crappy parts store lines.

The mileage the car has at this point doesn't really mean anything because you're already overdue on the time interval since the car is like 20 years old Most maintenance items have an x miles or x amount of time limit.

So you have to start from scratch which means check and inspect everything (or things you would replace at 100k) and replace the things you can't check. Have a qualified person check the car out if you don't feel confident. I think the best form of preventive maintenance would be to have a local shop or reputable board member thoroughly inspect the car, drive it and make necessary adjustments.