100 shot on my 13b?
04-17-09, 05:30 PM
#27
All this debate on swapping in a turbo engine being cheaper is pretty pointless.
Let's budget $1200 for the engine install. This gets you a stock turbo engine that can make 250 to the tires if all of the supporting fuel mods are done, which quickly adds to the cost.
Let's budget $1200 for nitrous, and lets do the install right. Screw the 100 shot. Let`s actually do this properly. The engine will handle a 250 shot, so lets go with that.
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku
$560
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku
$100
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku (x2, installed where the auxilary actuators normally go).
$110
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku
$120
Add in a walbro for $100, and $300 for ecu. Total: $1290, 400hp to the tires. Build me a TII engine for $1200 that can make 400 to the tires.
Let's budget $1200 for the engine install. This gets you a stock turbo engine that can make 250 to the tires if all of the supporting fuel mods are done, which quickly adds to the cost.
Let's budget $1200 for nitrous, and lets do the install right. Screw the 100 shot. Let`s actually do this properly. The engine will handle a 250 shot, so lets go with that.
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku
$560
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku
$100
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku (x2, installed where the auxilary actuators normally go).
$110
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku
$120
Add in a walbro for $100, and $300 for ecu. Total: $1290, 400hp to the tires. Build me a TII engine for $1200 that can make 400 to the tires.
04-17-09, 11:22 PM
#29
I wish I was driving!
$800 for turbo, intercooler, engine rebuild parts, injectors, ECU, wastegate, header, exhaust, fuel pump... not a chance. A decent rebuild alone costs more than that in parts.
04-17-09, 11:26 PM
#30
I wish I was driving!
Thats complete bullshit.
The common misconception with nitrous is that you need to disconnect the trailing plugs to prevent detonation with nitrous. If you ARE experiencing detonation while spraying, disconnecting them will usually correct the issue, but it costs power. A much better solution is to use the plugs in the correct temp range for the trailings, and set the timing properly.
The common misconception with nitrous is that you need to disconnect the trailing plugs to prevent detonation with nitrous. If you ARE experiencing detonation while spraying, disconnecting them will usually correct the issue, but it costs power. A much better solution is to use the plugs in the correct temp range for the trailings, and set the timing properly.
04-17-09, 11:39 PM
#32
I wish I was driving!
04-17-09, 11:59 PM
#34
Black Beast
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yeah 200 shot would be crazy but like you said drivetrain wont handle it. id like to get a setup thats flexible with the jetting, say a 100,150,200 shot capability. start with 100 and as i get more money for a driveshaft etc. go up to 200.
i dont think ill get an rtek 2.1 if i went with a 100 shot, right now my car makes the most power richened 9% getting as high as 13% so i have more fuel and less timing which is the safer way to go with the n2o
i run a 15.8 1/4 at 88mph. say i got a 100 shot... estimates on time?
i dont think ill get an rtek 2.1 if i went with a 100 shot, right now my car makes the most power richened 9% getting as high as 13% so i have more fuel and less timing which is the safer way to go with the n2o
i run a 15.8 1/4 at 88mph. say i got a 100 shot... estimates on time?
04-18-09, 09:01 AM
#35
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04-18-09, 11:50 AM
#36
I wish I was driving!
Yet another noob that thinks the term "header" only applies to N/A applications.
While "exhaust manifold" and "header" are fairly interchangable terms, the generally accepted definitions are that an exhaust manifold is typically a cast iron collector with non-equal length runners, and a header is a collector manufactured from individual pipe runners, typically tuned and of equal length.
For a 400 hp engine, there is no way you are going to be able to use the stock exhaust manifold, so an aftermarket piece will have to be employed. Save for the HKS (or knock-off) cast iron piece, all others are made from pipe, typically stainless. These, are the classic definition "TURBO HEADER".
But nice try on correcting me. Maybe next time try to make sure you're correct first.
While "exhaust manifold" and "header" are fairly interchangable terms, the generally accepted definitions are that an exhaust manifold is typically a cast iron collector with non-equal length runners, and a header is a collector manufactured from individual pipe runners, typically tuned and of equal length.
For a 400 hp engine, there is no way you are going to be able to use the stock exhaust manifold, so an aftermarket piece will have to be employed. Save for the HKS (or knock-off) cast iron piece, all others are made from pipe, typically stainless. These, are the classic definition "TURBO HEADER".
But nice try on correcting me. Maybe next time try to make sure you're correct first.
