2nd Generation Specific (1986-1992) 1986-1992 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections.

Is 0 gauge ok for a battery relocation?

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Old Mar 2, 2010 | 12:03 PM
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Is 0 gauge ok for a battery relocation?

I'm fixing a previous battery relocation the original owner did and wasn't such a good job and I'm using new wire. Ive had one strange electrical problem that really baffles me. My battery is undercharged and has a tough time cranking sometimes. I believe its because instead of the main ground being hooked up to the longest starter bold its hooked up to the back of the engine on bolt under the oil filter but their is a ground to the chassis in the storage compartment. Ive had the battery tested and its fine. So can I use 0 gauge to rewire the relocation?
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Old Mar 2, 2010 | 12:09 PM
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the battery ground should be as short as possible and have both a ground at the transmission and chassis. 0 gauge will work fine.
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Old Mar 2, 2010 | 12:26 PM
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Originally Posted by Karack
the battery ground should be as short as possible and have both a ground at the transmission and chassis. 0 gauge will work fine.
Ok sounds good. The battery ground goes from the back passenger bin through the firewall to the back of the engine so its quite long maybe 13 ft.
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Old Mar 2, 2010 | 12:29 PM
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Sorry for not providing in info on the car. Its a 88 Turbo 2.
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Old Mar 2, 2010 | 12:37 PM
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there's a plug right under that bin that exits about 1.5 feet from the back of the transmission. why is it 13 feet long?!
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Old Mar 2, 2010 | 12:45 PM
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i was just having a thread on such a thing. from what i have been told, i would do it this way.


run the negative wire to the starter body and bolt it down so its making direct contact with the starter. then from that run a ground wire to the drivers side strut tower where the stock one bolts to.

then from the positive terminal, hook it up directly to the solenoid on the starter. where its normally supposed to go to. then from the main power post on the battery, run one wire to the fuse box and then one wire to the main post on the alternator.

also, make sure to wire in a 200 or so amp circuit breaker.

i think thats right.
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Old Mar 2, 2010 | 01:06 PM
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Originally Posted by Karack
there's a plug right under that bin that exits about 1.5 feet from the back of the transmission. why is it 13 feet long?!
Idk know why its so long. I guess dude thought it would work. A plug huh? Ill have to check that out.
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Old Mar 2, 2010 | 01:09 PM
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Your ground should be as short as possible and never longer than the positive cable.

It should also be of equal gauge.
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Old Mar 2, 2010 | 01:21 PM
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2 AWG gauge is better if you care about weight. 1/0 is moving toward overkill. 4 gauge gets marginal when cranking.

I used single 0 but would have gone 2 AWG if I had it to do over again based on the experience of several friends.
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Old Mar 2, 2010 | 02:34 PM
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4 gauge will do, 0 is overkill.
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Old Mar 2, 2010 | 03:21 PM
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Originally Posted by Karack
there's a plug right under that bin that exits about 1.5 feet from the back of the transmission. why is it 13 feet long?!
Karack means that there are Rubber type Plugs on the Floor under the Bins.You can run the cable up through there and "prop it up" under the car(like with clamps or something of that nature.
I ran mine from the original cables to the Relocated battery.It went under the car on the frame rail,and is attached with Plastic clamps in case the clamp wears through the cable.
It's not the prettiest setup,but it works.Good luck.STYX.
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Old Mar 2, 2010 | 04:02 PM
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Originally Posted by SirCygnus
also, make sure to wire in a 200 or so amp circuit breaker.
I am against circuit breakers as most of the cheap and about half of all the others only work in one direction, I exchanged 4 of them before i found this out. Not saying you can't use one, but some are set up not to allow reverse flow as a safety thing, some are cheep and will trip with reverse flow and some will be damaged due to how they are made and will not trip after years of use if a short where to happen.

Originally Posted by frijolee
2 AWG gauge is better if you care about weight. 1/0 is moving toward overkill. 4 gauge gets marginal when cranking.

I used single 0 but would have gone 2 AWG if I had it to do over again based on the experience of several friends.
+1 for 2 gauge
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Old Mar 3, 2010 | 10:28 AM
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Tonight I gonna have some time to fix this and Ill let us know how it comes out. fingers crossed..
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Old Mar 3, 2010 | 10:35 AM
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pics of project!!!
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Old Mar 3, 2010 | 02:20 PM
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Originally Posted by Damzil
pics of project!!!
Yeah, Im starting on it tonite.
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Old Mar 3, 2010 | 02:59 PM
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I decided to go with 2awg. I have to get the cable. Where could I get cables that are long enough. Like these.
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Old Mar 3, 2010 | 03:17 PM
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Post #19 in link: https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generation-specific-1986-1992-17/looking-ro-redo-my-starter-wireing-890140/
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Old Mar 3, 2010 | 05:23 PM
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Originally Posted by satch
Thanks.
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