SirCygnus

iTrader: (1)

Im looking to redo all my starter wiring. from the starter to the battery terminals. However, im running into complications.

the stock battery will be in its standard location so i dont need to get complicated. what im really wondering is...

1)what gauge wire is used in our stock cars? im talking about the battery cables. what kind of lugs should i get (solder or crimp)?

2)also the ground connection on the strut tower for ground. the one that bolts there. is there a connector similar to this and if so, what is it called so that i may buy it?

3)i know the ground wire goes from the negative battery, to the strut tower, to the engine where its bolted to the starter. thats simple. however, the positive cable is confusing me. i know the alternator cable attaches to the power cable, but what else should i know about it before it goes smack dab to the starter?

satch

iTrader: (1)

http://www.aaroncake.net/RX-7/grounding.htm

SirCygnus

iTrader: (1)

this provides me with very little info. my grounds are good, and i dont have a stock ecu. i have no problems, but would rather fix things that are a little bit sketch.

satch

iTrader: (1)

I thought you asked "what gauge the cable should be." Was this answered in the link I provided. Yes it was. I thought you asked "what kind of lugs you should use (soldered or crimped)." This too was answered in the same link.

SirCygnus

iTrader: (1)

that was to one question. other than that, i still have more questions and i would like to know more rather than Aaron cakes view of it.

satch

iTrader: (1)

..

Nick_d_TII

iTrader: (6)

Crimp on connectors or solder connectors = same

http://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/am...uge-d_730.html

http://www.teamfc3s.org/main/factory_service_manual/

You don't need some special connector to ground ****. Just put (-) Negative to the Chassis.

If (+) Positive touches the chassis (ground) it will spark, get hot and cause a short circuit. A short circuit is where electricity flows from + to - in an unintended manner where it isn't fused or resisted to prevent fires/sparks/heat/melting. Electricity is used throughout your vehice to power the lights, radio, engine, fans, a/c, power windows, ect.

I'd just examine how it was wired from the factory (note: gauge of wire and connectors/lugs) and go get new ****. Should be pretty straight forward.

Good luck.

SirCygnus

iTrader: (1)

let me restate my question again.

the ground connection on the strut tower for ground. the one that bolts there. is there a connector similar to this and if so, what is it called so that i may buy it? no, i will not be reusing it. dont tell me to clean it and reuse it as i have stated i am not having problems. i just want to make a new circuit. new wires, new connectors. i want the exact same type of connector, or something similar to it.

satch

iTrader: (1)

"Only" the ground wire from the battery uses such a clamp and the positive cable definitely "does not" use one. Why do you need another one for? You're making it sound as if you want to redo your battery cables and if so you would need the clamp in question "only for the negative cable" and "if that were the case" then you would just reuse the existing one. You cannot make a "new circuit" with just a positive wire!

SoloII///M

iTrader: (13)

When I re-did my starter wiring, it was because the previous owner did a hack job of installing a stereo and the wire was trashed, plus I relocated the battery. You're not relocating the battery so your job is even easier.

Personally for a stock-length battery cable, 4 gauge wire is what I would use. I used screw-type battery terminals. Never had any issues with them. At the starter end, I just went to the auto parts store and bought a 4 gauge ring terminal. I used a torch to solder the wire in there and covered it with shrink wrap.

For the grounds, do the same thing. You need a wire connecting the battery negative to the chassis (doesn't matter where really) and one connecting it to the engine / trans. Use the same gauge wire and the same ring terminals. It's not tough.

Nick_d_TII

iTrader: (6)

+1

"the ground connection on the strut tower for ground. the one that bolts there. is there a connector similar to this and if so, what is it called so that i may buy it?" Call the dealership and ask them what you wrote above. They'll probably laugh at you. How are we supposed to know what your talking about? Is it a ring thing that holds the wire? Is it a terminal that attaches the wire to the chassis? Take/draw/find a picture of it or something?

My ground goes to the chassis, because I relocated my battery, and the ground from the Battery goes to the chassis!? ALL GROUND GOES TO THE CHASSIS!

The Wiring Diagram is shown in the FSM here: http://www.teamfc3s.org/main/factory_service_manual/

If your starter works fine why are you working on it???

SirCygnus

iTrader: (1)

because i dont want to use crap terminals. that is what i am having to resort to do to some things happening. the terminals dont contact the wires optimally and id like to not have to join two wires but instead use a single length of it.

RotaryEvolution

iTrader: (30)

i heated up the old terminal for the ground strap to the strut tower, removed it, cut the insulator off the new wiring and crimped it on there after putting it on the wire wheel and soldered it.

answer your question better?

i looked around for a bit and couldn't find a suitable replacement short of special ordering crap and hoping it was close and decent quality.

satch

iTrader: (1)

He's going to love this.

RotaryEvolution

iTrader: (30)

i suppose, all i did was go down to the auto parts store and get some generic cables that looked OE with soldered lead terminals and laid them down in the OE locations using the one old ground strap. good luck finding that one new anywhere.

i mean i felt better about it, actually having a red positive wire and all. it's not rocket science.

SirCygnus

iTrader: (1)

eh. if karack cant find it, i guess i wont. ill butcher up my friends from his pos 7.

satch

iTrader: (1)

What exactly are you trying to find? You're not going to mention the clamp again. As stated it is for grounding purposes only and you don't ground a positive wire. There is only one of those clamps in the car.

SirCygnus

iTrader: (1)

i want to redo all the wiring for the starter including the negative wire which grounds to the strut tower and finally at the starter. i dont want to ground any power wires.

i have the info now so no need to continue.

jdonnell

iTrader: (1)

I did both my cars. Here's what I used marine grade since I live on the east coast. I used normal lugs with heat shrink and boat battery terminals.

4 gauge black goes from (-) battery to strut tower
4 gauge black goes from (-) battery to starter bolt
4 gauge red (+) from battery to starter terminal. I originally had 55 inch length but had to reduce it a foot because it was to long.
8 gauge red from (+) battery to fuse box.

SirCygnus

iTrader: (1)

thats awesome!

satch

iTrader: (1)

Very much so!

SirCygnus

iTrader: (1)

I FOUND WHAT I WAS LOOKING FOR!!!! i know its 2 years old but **** it, i found it.

its called a battery stud, or battery lug flag. weird huh?

http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/wwg...rue&sst=subset

SirCygnus

iTrader: (1)

here is what im getting since my wire is a 4 gauge wire.

http://ca.digikey.com/1/1/2214037-co...is-321275.html