Coils should be here thursday or friday [thanks Akagis White Comet!], and I experienced my first bit of hesitation since changing the plugs and wires over a week ago. I'm guessing back to square two, since it still won't hesitate past 6500. I get it randomly still, so I wantto know if you guys can think of anything else for me to check.

Soon I want to go through the ENTIRE fuel system, as I smell a little bit of gas every now and then when I pop the hood after a brisk run. OMP lines? ECU grounds on rear housing? STILL NO CODE 71, whether cold, hot, whatever.

 

I reply in this so much because I'm using this as a log as well. Sorry guys.

Second day after started hesitation again. I could BARELY hobble it home from the pizza shoppe not three miles from home. Drove there kinda shitty, left and went to a friends and it was worse, came home and it didn't pass 20mph.

I can just barely get on the gas and it will climb slowly like it normally would at that throttle, but a hair more and I don't even get fire. It tries, but barely gets it, and it jerks so bad that the tires chirp a little. Literally, when it hesitated like that, I could be on the gas, and it would sound like I was off the gas altogether. It was a bitch getting it home, and I hope it doesn't flood because I couldn't rev it high before I shut it off. It has to be coils. But I had tach the whole time, so could the leads be bad? Could it be the TPS?

I keep smelling gas too. Do I need to look at the o rings on the injectors? No wet or gas residue around PD on secondary rail, but I'm gonna go out in the am when it's cool and shove my hand under the UIM to feel for gas. I need to know what's going on with this thing. Any help would be appreciated. Would this be a good time to have a gander at those grounds on the rear housing? Other than the gasket and some copper sealant, what all do I need to have to pull the UIM and replace it?

 

Can't edit on mobile. I should add it idles fine.

 

Perhaps it is time to copy the pinout of the ECU from the service manual and compare your pinout readings to those stated in the manual.

 

Should just go to every pin and check them to FSM? Is it possible the ECU is bad? Maybe due to the MAP sensor? Could it also be the pressure sensor near the passenger fender?

I hear a whistle at idle from the area of the cold start bottle that I didn't hear before so I'm gonna check vacuum lines around there for leaks. Yes I know I still have the cold start bottle. Lol

 

The Pressure Sensor near the fender is the MAP sensor. Checking out the whistling would appear to be a good idea. Perhaps the ECU is problematic or possibly one of the wiring harnesses. You should know more after you check the ECU pinouts and whistling that you hear.

 

Whistling stopped. I got my coils yesterday and proceeded to taking everything apart, hitting everything with a wire wheel and some electric parts cleaner, put everything back together with a hefty dose of dielectric grease and so far so good. I drove ~110 miles round trip yesterday and she didn't miss at me but very little, and it actually got pretty cold here. I'm beginning to lean more towards the combination of that, the untouched rear housing grounds [despite the rebuild ], and the funky TPS. Mine is held on by just the lower phillips head, so I'll have to take it apart the hard way. I have screws that will fit in the front two screw holes. Satch, I'll be sure to check through the pinout tomorrow, as I'm off and I'll have a hand. I want to pay special attention to the TPS wiring, coils' wiring and the injectors'. I saved the pinout from the FSM and I'll go by that and check voltage.

 

It's definitely the TPS. Hesitated really hard yesterday so I had an idea. My tach even crashed after completely rebuilding the coils I got from Travis. I wondered if unplugging the TPS again while it was actually hesitating would do anything.

I didn't even shut it off. Just stopped and unplugged it and kept on. The difference was VAST, and immediately noticeable. It wasn't even a little bit lumpy at idle or holding a constant speed. The car felt much better to drive, and accelerated MUCH faster than before. Not 30 seconds after I unplugged it and got back in my car and went did the tach shoot back on and worked the whole rest of my way. Got to my brother's. Shut it off and plugged it back in. Got cold and it was time to go, so I went out and fired it up to get warm. Idled fine, but here's where I tested. I left it plugged in this time. Drove like ******* **** up to the store to get some smokes. Unplugged it when I came back out, and it drove like a dream. Even had no problem keeping up and playing around with a 338i from ~2010+. I'll let you guys know when the gaskets come in and I can get the TPS replaced. I'm going to go ahead and do all the OMP lines, rear housing grounds, etc and clean up the entire motor while I'm in it as best as I can. What can I NOT get wet on these? I'm thinking a light shot from a pressure washer and some SuperClean will do the job rather nicely. Is there anything I need to be aware of in removing the UIM? I'll have to do it in pieces to get at the TPS, so everything has to come apart.

 

i agree that it now sounds to be TPS related, a secondary injector issue would only be present at the 6300RPM point and not all over the board like you seem to have been experiencing. injector problems are consistently repeatable.

 

Okay. Yeah, before, it WAS only around 6500, but it became more pervasive. I just ordered the two UIM gaskets [oh yeah and a decal for an extra 50hp] from Atkins and they should be here soon so I can start tearing it down.

My only question now is what could the little puddle of oil on my front rotor housing be from. Maybe the crush washers are no good.

 

you will have to clean the area and try to trace where the oil is coming from, on an n/a engine there isn't many places oil can leak so it is possible an upper dowel o-ring is leaking minorly.

 

I don't like the sound of that. When I get a few days off, I'll clean everything real well and see what it does after I put it back together. I had a few days off recently but it rained all three days and I don't have a covered workspace unfortunately. Did I mention I really don't like the sound of that? Am I going to have to replace that o-ring if that's the case?

 

just clean the area and trace the leak to the source before worrying about solutions, it could be easy or it may not, no need to pull hair out before knowing.

 

Have any of you guys found a trick to getting that lower phillips head screw out off the TPS without taking off the manifolds? I really need to get this done. I have been just plugging in my TPS when it doesn't want to start without. As soon as it starts and sits for a minute I've been unplugging it until I can actually replace it with my good one.