Confirmed meter's condition by performing the 3X and 3Z tests again under same conditions with the same results.

I tested ohms with no key first and got the same ones as with key. No more testing ohms with power though for sure. This is a very nice Fluke hook meter I'm using.

Do I need to run all new wires to the injectors and find new plugs for them?

 

Did you test these pins w/just key to on (engine off). And are you getting the same error code for one of the secondary injectors.

 

Yeah just key to on. Not with the motor running.

Gassed up with some non ethanol 89, much lower than 93 with a Lucas booster on top. Runs kinda crappy again.

Codes; they are the same ones. 18, 30, 33, 71.

 

3Z is the rear secondary injector and this injector is not working w/the readings you provided thus the plug is damaged or one if not both of the wires in the plug are pulled back and not making contact w/the injector. Error code #73 is for the rear injector so either you misread the error code or possibly you have the rear plug on the front injector and the front plug on the rear injector. A continuity test would tell you if this were the case. Pin 3Z is Light Green/Red so if you place one meter lead into the back of 3Z and the other meter lead to the LG/R wire at the injector plug and w/the meter set to continuity and it rang out then you know they are not mixed up. If it does not ring out then you could place the meter lead to the Light Green striped wire of the front secondary plug and if it rings out then you have the plugs switched.

 

First, what do you mean by ring out? The long wire with plug goes to the rear. It has the green/red wire. The front has a short plug that wouldn't reach to the rear injector. That has a green/white wire.

My code was seven long flashes and one short one, not three. Four seconds of pause then back to 18.

I'll be sure to check that tomorrow afternoon. It has been running better lately and even pulls all the way to 8k with no problem. It's a little lumpy at idle but that's probably my TPS getting worse

 

Can I take a video and post a YouTube link of my codes going?

 

W/the meter set to continuity place both meter leads together and you'll understand what is meant by ringing out.

 

Alright. I'll get up in the morning and check it then. Might need to get a little crafty with some jumper/lead wire. I'll post results.

She still pulls to redline cleanly.

 

Tomorrow I will check continuity, if I can get her to work and back. Today, driving it was horrible. I had to pull over twice on my way home just because I could step on the pedal and I would get NOTHING. At all. Even while moving. Sometimes it would just, stop. No fuel.

It HAS to be the pump. It even hesitates sometimes between 2500-3500, but 3500+ including the secondary transition will be clean, then break up again around like 5000 or something. It really is random and scattered all across the board. When I can get her to go all the way out to redline, she'll take it, but it's lumpy. It would explain why the 93 octane conventional and Lucas booster made it smooth out.

The pump is one of the only things I haven't checked [given my previous symptoms, it didn't make sense], but tomorrow afternoon after I check continuity to the plugs and correct any problems, I'm going to start shopping for a pump and strainer, as well as a new TPS [SEND ME A PM IF YOU HAVE A GOOD TPS FOR SALE]. I'll let you guys know how the continuity test goes.

 

Okay it's been a little bit but I have continuity. I replaced the fuel pump and strainer tonight and it idles MUCH better and pulls more smoothly too, but still hits a wall at 6500. Tomorrow or thursday when I'm off again, I'm gonna retest EVERYTHING with the multimeter.

Other than that, I might check timing, I got a TPS for free that I hope is good. I may install and test that and see if it makes it any better. I want to make a two-light check connector for that. How might I go about doing it so I don't have to try and adjust it with the multimeter?

I'm kinda at a loss. I want to try and find some plugs for the injectors but I'm unsure of what cars have plugs that match. One thing I haven't done yet is the ECU ground on the rear housing as well, so I may find some time to do that and see if it helps.

Any ideas?

 

i would still recommend swapping injector wires, everything seemed to test ok initially and i only found the issue on 088's car after doing that test.

once i did and it idled on one rotor it was easy to diagnose.

 

Right. Just a little nervous about plucking wires. Am I pulling out just the wire or the whole pin from the plug that the wire sits in?

I'll have to do it on thursday. Picked up a shift today so I won't be able to mess with it until then.

 

You remove individual pins but you might to to unplug the smallest ECU plug which houses the injector wires so as to remove the individual wires.

 

yes, pry the backing locks away from the center of the connector and they will splay outward removing the lock holding the pins in place. then from the ECU side use a needle to pry lightly the lock tabs away from the pins and pull them straight out the back. swap them, push them in until they click and then fold the locks back over. you can leave the primary wires loose, taped up for the test.

 

Satch saw what I posted over there.

Is it possible that my trailing coil is bad because every few days or so it will arc and not show any tach then finally warm up after a little bit. That and my TPS code make me think it could be a combination of a bad trailing coil and a **** TPS. My timing light will tell me about the coil, but there is just too much on here about TPSs in general. S4/S5, turbo/NA, tps connector/green 3-prong check connector, it's overwhelming. I want to use the green connector method, but I want to do it by volts. If I have 12vdc on both or none, I adjust until 12vdc on just one? Will this work well? I have a spare TPS that I think mat be good. I have a weird DMM as previously stated, and will post a picture of that. I can check continuity, but it doesn't have the ability ring out unless I'm in resistance. Retarded.

I'm still going to swap primaries for secondaries soon, but everything is all different every time I test it under the same conditions.

 

Just re-seat the wires coming off of the trailing coils or at the least, secure them and confirm with your timing light that it's firing.

A bad TPS is a bad TPS and failure could manifest in a variety of ways. Find a buddy with a known working one and swap'em?

 

Well, a buddy of mine gave me a TPS that was good when he pulled it off his S5, so he says. I will swap it and see soon.

I just went and checked for ohms at the plugs of the injectors. Of course no key and no power. I had the multimeter set to auto because there are like four settings for M,ohms and then four for k,ohms. I could only get a reading on the rears of 5.0 M,ohms and it changes every time as I cycle through modes like to k ohms and different decimal places on the meter. The front I got 0.928 M,ohms on auto.

I'll post a pic of my meter in just a sec.

 

http://s1001.photobucket.com/user/NativeBeggars/media/DMMpic_zpsc32fbf27.jpg.html?filters[user]=137207272&filters[recent]=1&sort=1&o=0

 

When I set the dmm to where it will ring out, neither of the secondary pins register anything or ring out.

 

You check the ability of the meter set to continuity by placing the leads together and it should ring out. If it does then the meter is good, if not then the meter is obviously not good.

 

The meter is good because on that setting it will ring out when I touch the leads together, but when I test the plug, it registers nothing and does not ring out.

EDIT: When I test either of the plugs for the secondary injectors. Gonna give the green check connector tps check a try with volts.

 

An individual injector has a wire leading to the ECU. At one end of the wire is the ECU and the other end is the injector plug. For continuity you test both ends of the wire at the same time. Is this what you are doing?

 

Yessir. Continuity is the horizontal line with the solid arrow up against a vertical line. On my screen is that, a capital "V" on the other side, and .0L or .OL with no leads connected. In this setting it does not ring out. The ring out setting is different. I get no change when I put one lead in one side of the plug and one lead in the other. The same on the ring out setting. It never deviates from .0L on both plugs to the secondaries.

I'm gonna try and pull the pins out to do Karack's test soon. I don't need to put that off any longer. I remember how the motor sounded before running on one rotor, so if it does, I know I'm in the right spot?

 

The setting that rings out has the speaker symbol and an ohm sign. This one shows "0L.". When I touch the leads together on this, it rings out and jumps to 13.x ohm and drops to 0 while it rings out. It does not ring out or deviate from 0L. when I put one pin in each side of the injector plug.

 

There are two wires to each plug and when unplugged there is no continuity between the two wires because they are distinctly different wires so they should not ring out. The only reason why you were asked to perform a continuity test was to see if you had the primary and secondary plugs switched but you said this was not the case so there is no reason then to conduct a continuity test but if you do you need to read what was stated. THERE is a wire running from the ECU to the injector plug that is only one wire w/two ends obviously. One meter lead to the Light Green wire at the ECU while unplugged and the second meter lead to the very same wire at the injector while unplugged. Comprende?