SUV bumps into my clean FC - side damage
#1
Vintage sportcars
Thread Starter
SUV bumps into my clean FC - side damage
Hello,
yes as the title states.
I was waiting to exit the parking when my dad drove his SUV out of the spot in reverse and smacked right into my soo clean FC and pushed it for about 30 cm.
He couldnīt see it in the rear mirror because the FC is not high enough.
I saw it comming and could only reach my horn, it went of right at the impact.
No chance for making a manoever to avoid collision as my car was in neutral with E-brake on waiting to enter traffic.
The rear corner of the Nissan Patrols bumper hit my passenger door at height of the door handle and pushed the entire door about 20 - 25 cm in.
To make things perfect I got pushed a second or so for about 30 cm befor the SUV stopped, leaving the FC with a seriously dented door.
Upon impact, glass splitter flew through the cabin like a grenade. The window literally explode.
I was scared to see the damage on the body, could have been very worse.
Luckily its only the passenger door that took the impact, everything around is fine.
Hatch opens fine, no cracks in windshield.
I am quiet sure that there is no serious body damage as all the areas look ok so far.
But I am not able to open the door actually.
Insurance might claim it a total loss, as the price for a new door import, labour, paint, diverse parts and stuff is going to exeed the market value.
I am waiting to the insurance inspector to come by and check it out. Last week I installed a new radiator+samcos, gave the engine bay and car a complete cleanup.
Its has not been beaten on it, I always take care of my car and gave it the best possible with $$ as a second concern.
Regardless I will not let it be declared as a total loss, I will have it completly restored from ground up with new paint and bodywork done keeping it OEM and slightly JDM styled.
Here are the pics of the carnage:
yes as the title states.
I was waiting to exit the parking when my dad drove his SUV out of the spot in reverse and smacked right into my soo clean FC and pushed it for about 30 cm.
He couldnīt see it in the rear mirror because the FC is not high enough.
I saw it comming and could only reach my horn, it went of right at the impact.
No chance for making a manoever to avoid collision as my car was in neutral with E-brake on waiting to enter traffic.
The rear corner of the Nissan Patrols bumper hit my passenger door at height of the door handle and pushed the entire door about 20 - 25 cm in.
To make things perfect I got pushed a second or so for about 30 cm befor the SUV stopped, leaving the FC with a seriously dented door.
Upon impact, glass splitter flew through the cabin like a grenade. The window literally explode.
I was scared to see the damage on the body, could have been very worse.
Luckily its only the passenger door that took the impact, everything around is fine.
Hatch opens fine, no cracks in windshield.
I am quiet sure that there is no serious body damage as all the areas look ok so far.
But I am not able to open the door actually.
Insurance might claim it a total loss, as the price for a new door import, labour, paint, diverse parts and stuff is going to exeed the market value.
I am waiting to the insurance inspector to come by and check it out. Last week I installed a new radiator+samcos, gave the engine bay and car a complete cleanup.
Its has not been beaten on it, I always take care of my car and gave it the best possible with $$ as a second concern.
Regardless I will not let it be declared as a total loss, I will have it completly restored from ground up with new paint and bodywork done keeping it OEM and slightly JDM styled.
Here are the pics of the carnage:
#4
Vintage sportcars
Thread Starter
Well, they did not say thats a complete loss yet, but the chances are there as its old and replacements are hella expensive. (Paied 1800 for it)
When brought to a bodyshop for estimate they will have to order a new door from mazda with everything thats involved.
They dont use used parts unless the customer instructed so or supplys them.
Here in Luxembourg they have fantasy prices, I would not wonder if a new door with install paint etc.. would cost well over 2500 (about 3000$)
I am already in contact with a guy who parts out an S4 NA in france, I might get lucky.
I am curious how high the estimate will be.
I would always prefer a NA engine over turbo. I did not chose my NA because I was low on cash.
When brought to a bodyshop for estimate they will have to order a new door from mazda with everything thats involved.
They dont use used parts unless the customer instructed so or supplys them.
Here in Luxembourg they have fantasy prices, I would not wonder if a new door with install paint etc.. would cost well over 2500 (about 3000$)
I am already in contact with a guy who parts out an S4 NA in france, I might get lucky.
I am curious how high the estimate will be.
ouch, that su... wait its only an na.. nvm
#5
Hey...Cut it out!
iTrader: (4)
One thing I know is that the Euro-spec cars use J-spec door panels (F044 prefix), while the US-spec cars have FB0x as the body prefix. Not sure what the difference would realistically be (could be side impact beams in US-spec?), but if it would help you out, I can probably find a door panel for you on the cheap, and most likely in Noble White already. Try PMing 87T-66 with this request.
#7
Vintage sportcars
Thread Starter
Couldn't have said it better myself. However StevenL5975, you are in luck. Since the Euro-Spec cars are based on the USDM ones, albeit with a few tweaks to lighting and gauges, it should be pretty simple to just replace the door with one from here in the states. And because Noble White is the most common color for the S4 here, you've got a really good shot at not needing any paintwork done. With a little luck, your inner door panel might be reusable as well.
One thing I know is that the Euro-spec cars use J-spec door panels (F044 prefix), while the US-spec cars have FB0x as the body prefix. Not sure what the difference would realistically be (could be side impact beams in US-spec?), but if it would help you out, I can probably find a door panel for you on the cheap, and most likely in Noble White already. Try PMing 87T-66 with this request.
One thing I know is that the Euro-spec cars use J-spec door panels (F044 prefix), while the US-spec cars have FB0x as the body prefix. Not sure what the difference would realistically be (could be side impact beams in US-spec?), but if it would help you out, I can probably find a door panel for you on the cheap, and most likely in Noble White already. Try PMing 87T-66 with this request.
I really appreciate your help, but I will wait a day or 2 until I get response from the local guy.
I might get lucky to recieve the complete assembly of the door. That would make shipping a lot more easier.
Problem with my car is that it has a few rust spots on the lower sides and engine bay. On pics the car looks very nice but in person you will see lots of small rust pits and imperfections.
My plan was to get it professionally painted next year or so, I mean underside, body, engine bay etc ... Fixing all that little rust spots. Making it a nice car again.
Thats very expensive and I already have about 3/4 of the funds.
What do you think? Can I still drive with the car (from a legal point of view) ?
Mirror is still there might be ok with exception of glass missing and body damage.
Trending Topics
#9
Salvage yards can be expensive. If it's a need now, got for it, or just wait until you see someone parting out a car. You can also try to pull the dents out with this method:
https://www.rx7club.com/detailing-restoration-284/popping-out-rear-fender-wells-screws-pics-962277/
https://www.rx7club.com/detailing-restoration-284/popping-out-rear-fender-wells-screws-pics-962277/
#10
Vintage sportcars
Thread Starter
RX-7 s are very very rare over here, so no luck at the yard. But I am in contact with a person thats parting out a car, just need to wait a day or 2 for response.
Tried to clean all that glass out there, almost impossible, these splitters are sometimes thin as a hair. Might be a good occasion to upgrade to corbeau's.
Seats and floormats were behind good, way before the incident. Window literally turned to dust.
I immobilized the car so that nobody steals it. (Actually we have few of burglaries last weeks, stealing cars and making crimes)
As a sidenote, does anybody know who sells floormats for the 7 ?
Steven
Tried to clean all that glass out there, almost impossible, these splitters are sometimes thin as a hair. Might be a good occasion to upgrade to corbeau's.
Seats and floormats were behind good, way before the incident. Window literally turned to dust.
I immobilized the car so that nobody steals it. (Actually we have few of burglaries last weeks, stealing cars and making crimes)
As a sidenote, does anybody know who sells floormats for the 7 ?
Steven
#11
Hey...Cut it out!
iTrader: (4)
Thats a good info ! I also did not know the name of the color. The euro spec cars are a lot of mix matching (Distributor, Thermal reactor, Weird 6 port intake, Coolant system etc ...)
I really appreciate your help, but I will wait a day or 2 until I get response from the local guy.
I might get lucky to recieve the complete assembly of the door. That would make shipping a lot more easier.
Problem with my car is that it has a few rust spots on the lower sides and engine bay. On pics the car looks very nice but in person you will see lots of small rust pits and imperfections.
My plan was to get it professionally painted next year or so, I mean underside, body, engine bay etc ... Fixing all that little rust spots. Making it a nice car again.
Thats very expensive and I already have about 3/4 of the funds.
What do you think? Can I still drive with the car (from a legal point of view) ?
Mirror is still there might be ok with exception of glass missing and body damage.
I really appreciate your help, but I will wait a day or 2 until I get response from the local guy.
I might get lucky to recieve the complete assembly of the door. That would make shipping a lot more easier.
Problem with my car is that it has a few rust spots on the lower sides and engine bay. On pics the car looks very nice but in person you will see lots of small rust pits and imperfections.
My plan was to get it professionally painted next year or so, I mean underside, body, engine bay etc ... Fixing all that little rust spots. Making it a nice car again.
Thats very expensive and I already have about 3/4 of the funds.
What do you think? Can I still drive with the car (from a legal point of view) ?
Mirror is still there might be ok with exception of glass missing and body damage.
#12
Vintage sportcars
Thread Starter
Thanks for your reply.
Car is sitting now at the bodyshop for damage inspection etc etc ...
Will get restored/repaired/painted from underside, engine bay and exterior.
Anybody seen a white Peugeot RCZ ? That white looks so nice, not as flashy as the Hyundai (i20 and up) or Seat ibiza/Leon.
And not as creamy as my FC looks now. It really is a nice white.
In combination with a black hood/headlight covers, black S4 trim and black watanabes this is gonna look outstanding
Steven
Car is sitting now at the bodyshop for damage inspection etc etc ...
Will get restored/repaired/painted from underside, engine bay and exterior.
Anybody seen a white Peugeot RCZ ? That white looks so nice, not as flashy as the Hyundai (i20 and up) or Seat ibiza/Leon.
And not as creamy as my FC looks now. It really is a nice white.
In combination with a black hood/headlight covers, black S4 trim and black watanabes this is gonna look outstanding
Steven
#13
Vintage sportcars
Thread Starter
Update:
Inspector got the cars value estimated. Putting a long story short these are the options I got:
Needless to say I am voting for option 2 here.
When choosing option 1, junkyard pays 825 $ (Best offer) to the assurance and they pay the customer 4000$.
Junkyard called me today to ask if I would like to total it... After turning them down they told me to give them a call should I ever change my mind ...
I had a good laugh Sorry, no way they get their dirty hands on it.
I dumped over 7k $ into that car (I have the invoices), hell the radiator is almost more worth then they offered for the car ... *lol*
There is still a whole bunch of parts left where I donīt have a invoice
Tires and maintenance stuff not included, hehe
Keep it safe...
Inspector got the cars value estimated. Putting a long story short these are the options I got:
- 4000$ will be mine if I give it at the junkyard.
- 3160$ will be mine if I insist to have the value payed out by assurance.
Needless to say I am voting for option 2 here.
When choosing option 1, junkyard pays 825 $ (Best offer) to the assurance and they pay the customer 4000$.
Junkyard called me today to ask if I would like to total it... After turning them down they told me to give them a call should I ever change my mind ...
I had a good laugh Sorry, no way they get their dirty hands on it.
I dumped over 7k $ into that car (I have the invoices), hell the radiator is almost more worth then they offered for the car ... *lol*
There is still a whole bunch of parts left where I donīt have a invoice
Tires and maintenance stuff not included, hehe
Keep it safe...
Last edited by StevenL5975; 09-06-11 at 11:56 AM.
#14
Were's my chopsticks?
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Update:
Inspector got the cars value estimated. Putting a long story short these are the options I got:
Needless to say I am voting for option 2 here.
When choosing option 1, junkyard pays 825 $ (Best offer) to the assurance and they pay the customer 4000$.
Junkyard called me today to ask if I would like to total it... After turning them down they told me to give them a call should I ever change my mind ...
I had a good laugh Sorry, no way they get their dirty hands on it.
I dumped over 7k $ into that car (I have the invoices), hell the radiator is almost more worth then they offered for the car ... *lol*
There is still a whole bunch of parts left where I donīt have a invoice
Tires and maintenance stuff not included, hehe
Keep it safe...
Inspector got the cars value estimated. Putting a long story short these are the options I got:
- 4000$ will be mine if I give it at the junkyard.
- 3160$ will be mine if I insist to have the value payed out by assurance.
Needless to say I am voting for option 2 here.
When choosing option 1, junkyard pays 825 $ (Best offer) to the assurance and they pay the customer 4000$.
Junkyard called me today to ask if I would like to total it... After turning them down they told me to give them a call should I ever change my mind ...
I had a good laugh Sorry, no way they get their dirty hands on it.
I dumped over 7k $ into that car (I have the invoices), hell the radiator is almost more worth then they offered for the car ... *lol*
There is still a whole bunch of parts left where I donīt have a invoice
Tires and maintenance stuff not included, hehe
Keep it safe...
#15
Vintage sportcars
Thread Starter
Put a transparent self-adhesive foil on the window. Its a bit loud, but once the tires start to squeal I dont notice anymore
#16
Vintage sportcars
Thread Starter
Update:
Car will get restored completly, exterior wise. I am still wating for the new/used door to arrive.
The paint sheme will be as follows:
I still haven't found a shop thats up to the task. Most shops will skimp too much or just sand the existing paint on and spray over it. Thats a great NO GO for me
It really is a pita to find someone who is going to do it right.
I will disassemble most of the exterior parts, removing trim, lights etc ...
So everything will be done the right way.
I really canīt stand it anymore how awfull the car looks actually. Its a shame to drive around and go to meetings.
The assurance value of the car is like 3000$ due to the actual condition. Its now time for some action.
One shop accidentaly sprayed tar for underside protection over the sides of the car ... they are now grey instead of white
Edit:
I forgot to mention that the engine bay will also be done, looks horrible too
Car will get restored completly, exterior wise. I am still wating for the new/used door to arrive.
The paint sheme will be as follows:
- Old paint layers stripped to bare metal.
- Peugeot RCZ (Opal white) as base with clear. (Very nice and decent white)
- Refurbished black trim.
- Black hood & headlight covers with clear.
- Black mirrors with clear.
I still haven't found a shop thats up to the task. Most shops will skimp too much or just sand the existing paint on and spray over it. Thats a great NO GO for me
It really is a pita to find someone who is going to do it right.
I will disassemble most of the exterior parts, removing trim, lights etc ...
So everything will be done the right way.
I really canīt stand it anymore how awfull the car looks actually. Its a shame to drive around and go to meetings.
The assurance value of the car is like 3000$ due to the actual condition. Its now time for some action.
One shop accidentaly sprayed tar for underside protection over the sides of the car ... they are now grey instead of white
Edit:
I forgot to mention that the engine bay will also be done, looks horrible too
Last edited by StevenL5975; 09-10-11 at 06:29 AM. Reason: add
#19
Vintage sportcars
Thread Starter
Hello,
small update, I got my new used door and installed it. Was a pita but now I have a functional door again.
It really did just damage the door, shell around the door was fine.
Now I need to get in touch with a body shop who will be able to handle the task.
I am still debating if I should install a full weld in cage or not. If I do so, then it needs to be done before paint.
Hmmm, decisions...
Steven
small update, I got my new used door and installed it. Was a pita but now I have a functional door again.
It really did just damage the door, shell around the door was fine.
Now I need to get in touch with a body shop who will be able to handle the task.
I am still debating if I should install a full weld in cage or not. If I do so, then it needs to be done before paint.
Hmmm, decisions...
Steven
#20
Vintage sportcars
Thread Starter
UPDATE !!
As for the decisions, there is no cage going in. Atleast for now. Maybe in 5 years or so....
As I left work with my FC for lunch a coolant hose (heater hose from rad to core) bursted at 7 grand, I was just passing a truck. Steamed the entire autobahn lol.
Long story short. I got towed home and then the FC sat at the driveway for a few days...
So instead of repairing that hose I took it as an opportunity to finally start general overhaul. (was badly needed)
Let the pics speak for themselfes:
As for the decisions, there is no cage going in. Atleast for now. Maybe in 5 years or so....
As I left work with my FC for lunch a coolant hose (heater hose from rad to core) bursted at 7 grand, I was just passing a truck. Steamed the entire autobahn lol.
Long story short. I got towed home and then the FC sat at the driveway for a few days...
So instead of repairing that hose I took it as an opportunity to finally start general overhaul. (was badly needed)
Let the pics speak for themselfes:
#21
Vintage sportcars
Thread Starter
The next series, the engine bay got cleaned and almost every stuff is out there.
Brake booster, clutch master, transmission, brake lines, main harness and battery tray are still bolted.
The steering rack is still installed too, cannot remove it otherwise I am unable to pull the car out of the garage.
The real carnage has yet to come ...
Brake booster, clutch master, transmission, brake lines, main harness and battery tray are still bolted.
The steering rack is still installed too, cannot remove it otherwise I am unable to pull the car out of the garage.
The real carnage has yet to come ...
#22
Vintage sportcars
Thread Starter
Well yes, as I was digging under the car for some lines and bolts, I found a rust spot and followed it.
This is what it turned into:
Courious to what it looks like on the pass side:
Passenger side. Well this side is supposed to have been "professionally repaired" *glancing over to the bill*
Yep that says: "Chassis repair/welding 869,57 " (1157.48 $)
Take a look at that video: (click it)
And this video from the passenger side: (click it)
I cannot describe it with words, they ripped me off, tack welding some **** over(!) the rusty place and covering it with undercoating. So it looks good and passes Inspection ...
Steven
This is what it turned into:
Courious to what it looks like on the pass side:
Passenger side. Well this side is supposed to have been "professionally repaired" *glancing over to the bill*
Yep that says: "Chassis repair/welding 869,57 " (1157.48 $)
Take a look at that video: (click it)
And this video from the passenger side: (click it)
I cannot describe it with words, they ripped me off, tack welding some **** over(!) the rusty place and covering it with undercoating. So it looks good and passes Inspection ...
Steven
#24
Slowpoke
iTrader: (3)
wow that sucks. How long did you have the car? When I buy a car, i always look underneath it, if it was a few years ago im sure you would have noticed that rust building up. Is rust a common issue in your area? That would need some sections cut out of a donor car and welded up, which requires some fabrication skill. Or perhaps cut out the rust areas, and form some sheet metal to the contours and weld it up.
#25
The Blue Blur
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Good god! If you still have receipts from getting that done I would sue the **** out of the shop that did that! If that's all they did for you imagine some other cars they have worked on. This could cause safety hazards to the owners, its a compromised chassis. That's a severely weakened frame in the event of a wreck had it been much worse.