SUV bumps into my clean FC - side damage
6 Attachment(s)
Hello,
yes as the title states. I was waiting to exit the parking when my dad drove his SUV out of the spot in reverse and smacked right into my soo clean FC and pushed it for about 30 cm. :icon_tdow He couldnīt see it in the rear mirror because the FC is not high enough. I saw it comming and could only reach my horn, it went of right at the impact. No chance for making a manoever to avoid collision as my car was in neutral with E-brake on waiting to enter traffic. The rear corner of the Nissan Patrols bumper hit my passenger door at height of the door handle and pushed the entire door about 20 - 25 cm in. To make things perfect I got pushed a second or so for about 30 cm befor the SUV stopped, leaving the FC with a seriously dented door. Upon impact, glass splitter flew through the cabin like a grenade. The window literally explode. I was scared to see the damage on the body, could have been very worse. Luckily its only the passenger door that took the impact, everything around is fine. Hatch opens fine, no cracks in windshield. I am quiet sure that there is no serious body damage as all the areas look ok so far. But I am not able to open the door actually. Insurance might claim it a total loss, as the price for a new door import, labour, paint, diverse parts and stuff is going to exeed the market value. I am waiting to the insurance inspector to come by and check it out. Last week I installed a new radiator+samcos, gave the engine bay and car a complete cleanup. Its has not been beaten on it, I always take care of my car and gave it the best possible with $$ as a second concern. Regardless I will not let it be declared as a total loss, I will have it completly restored from ground up with new paint and bodywork done keeping it OEM and slightly JDM styled. Here are the pics of the carnage: |
tell your insurance to properly fuck off and just replace the door, door panel, and glass, call it a day.
its just a door, not the frame, not the body, who cares, just replace, be glad thats all that happened, and have fun with a clean car like yours Lloyd |
ouch, that su... wait its only an na.. nvm
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Well, they did not say thats a complete loss yet, but the chances are there as its old and replacements are hella expensive. (Paied 1800 for it)
When brought to a bodyshop for estimate they will have to order a new door from mazda with everything thats involved. They dont use used parts unless the customer instructed so or supplys them. Here in Luxembourg they have fantasy prices, I would not wonder if a new door with install paint etc.. would cost well over 2500 (about 3000$) I am already in contact with a guy who parts out an S4 NA in france, I might get lucky. I am curious how high the estimate will be. ouch, that su... wait its only an na.. nvm |
Originally Posted by magus2222
(Post 10726219)
tell your insurance to properly fuck off and just replace the door, door panel, and glass, call it a day.
its just a door, not the frame, not the body, who cares, just replace, be glad thats all that happened, and have fun with a clean car like yours Lloyd One thing I know is that the Euro-spec cars use J-spec door panels (F044 prefix), while the US-spec cars have FB0x as the body prefix. Not sure what the difference would realistically be (could be side impact beams in US-spec?), but if it would help you out, I can probably find a door panel for you on the cheap, and most likely in Noble White already. Try PMing 87T-66 with this request. |
my mom backed into my s13 years ago, right where the door handle was, so i couldnt open the door.. Luckily I found a matching color door at the junk yard.
Tip: If you find a door at the junk yard, roll the window down in it so they dont see it/get charged for it hahah |
Couldn't have said it better myself. However StevenL5975, you are in luck. Since the Euro-Spec cars are based on the USDM ones, albeit with a few tweaks to lighting and gauges, it should be pretty simple to just replace the door with one from here in the states. And because Noble White is the most common color for the S4 here, you've got a really good shot at not needing any paintwork done. With a little luck, your inner door panel might be reusable as well. One thing I know is that the Euro-spec cars use J-spec door panels (F044 prefix), while the US-spec cars have FB0x as the body prefix. Not sure what the difference would realistically be (could be side impact beams in US-spec?), but if it would help you out, I can probably find a door panel for you on the cheap, and most likely in Noble White already. Try PMing 87T-66 with this request. I really appreciate your help, but I will wait a day or 2 until I get response from the local guy. I might get lucky to recieve the complete assembly of the door. That would make shipping a lot more easier. Problem with my car is that it has a few rust spots on the lower sides and engine bay. On pics the car looks very nice but in person you will see lots of small rust pits and imperfections. My plan was to get it professionally painted next year or so, I mean underside, body, engine bay etc ... Fixing all that little rust spots. Making it a nice car again. Thats very expensive and I already have about 3/4 of the funds. What do you think? Can I still drive with the car (from a legal point of view) ? Mirror is still there might be ok with exception of glass missing and body damage. |
Yes, it is still legal
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Salvage yards can be expensive. If it's a need now, got for it, or just wait until you see someone parting out a car. You can also try to pull the dents out with this method:
https://www.rx7club.com/detailing-restoration-284/popping-out-rear-fender-wells-screws-pics-962277/ :) |
RX-7 s are very very rare over here, so no luck at the yard. But I am in contact with a person thats parting out a car, just need to wait a day or 2 for response.
Tried to clean all that glass out there, almost impossible, these splitters are sometimes thin as a hair. Might be a good occasion to upgrade to corbeau's. Seats and floormats were behind good, way before the incident. Window literally turned to dust. :( I immobilized the car so that nobody steals it. (Actually we have few of burglaries last weeks, stealing cars and making crimes) As a sidenote, does anybody know who sells floormats for the 7 ? Steven |
Originally Posted by StevenL5975
(Post 10726345)
Thats a good info ! I also did not know the name of the color. The euro spec cars are a lot of mix matching (Distributor, Thermal reactor, Weird 6 port intake, Coolant system etc ...)
I really appreciate your help, but I will wait a day or 2 until I get response from the local guy. I might get lucky to recieve the complete assembly of the door. That would make shipping a lot more easier. Problem with my car is that it has a few rust spots on the lower sides and engine bay. On pics the car looks very nice but in person you will see lots of small rust pits and imperfections. My plan was to get it professionally painted next year or so, I mean underside, body, engine bay etc ... Fixing all that little rust spots. Making it a nice car again. Thats very expensive and I already have about 3/4 of the funds. What do you think? Can I still drive with the car (from a legal point of view) ? Mirror is still there might be ok with exception of glass missing and body damage. |
Thanks for your reply.
Car is sitting now at the bodyshop for damage inspection etc etc ... Will get restored/repaired/painted from underside, engine bay and exterior. Anybody seen a white Peugeot RCZ ? That white looks so nice, not as flashy as the Hyundai (i20 and up) or Seat ibiza/Leon. And not as creamy as my FC looks now. It really is a nice white. In combination with a black hood/headlight covers, black S4 trim and black watanabes this is gonna look outstanding :nod: Steven |
Update:
Inspector got the cars value estimated. Putting a long story short these are the options I got:
Needless to say I am voting for option 2 here. When choosing option 1, junkyard pays 825 $ (Best offer) to the assurance and they pay the customer 4000$. Junkyard called me today to ask if I would like to total it... After turning them down they told me to give them a call should I ever change my mind ... I had a good laugh :lol: Sorry, no way they get their dirty hands on it. I dumped over 7k $ into that car (I have the invoices), hell the radiator is almost more worth then they offered for the car ... *lol* There is still a whole bunch of parts left where I donīt have a invoice :nod: Tires and maintenance stuff not included, hehe Keep it safe... |
Originally Posted by StevenL5975
(Post 10775936)
Update:
Inspector got the cars value estimated. Putting a long story short these are the options I got:
Needless to say I am voting for option 2 here. When choosing option 1, junkyard pays 825 $ (Best offer) to the assurance and they pay the customer 4000$. Junkyard called me today to ask if I would like to total it... After turning them down they told me to give them a call should I ever change my mind ... I had a good laugh :lol: Sorry, no way they get their dirty hands on it. I dumped over 7k $ into that car (I have the invoices), hell the radiator is almost more worth then they offered for the car ... *lol* There is still a whole bunch of parts left where I donīt have a invoice :nod: Tires and maintenance stuff not included, hehe Keep it safe... |
Originally Posted by Nytrate
(Post 10775967)
Well Im glad this is working out well! Fix her up and get her tearing up tthe streets again!
Put a transparent self-adhesive foil on the window. Its a bit loud, but once the tires start to squeal I dont notice anymore :nod: |
Update:
Car will get restored completly, exterior wise. I am still wating for the new/used door to arrive. The paint sheme will be as follows:
I still haven't found a shop thats up to the task. Most shops will skimp too much or just sand the existing paint on and spray over it. Thats a great NO GO for me :icon_tdow It really is a pita to find someone who is going to do it right. I will disassemble most of the exterior parts, removing trim, lights etc ... So everything will be done the right way. I really canīt stand it anymore how awfull the car looks actually. Its a shame to drive around and go to meetings. The assurance value of the car is like 3000$ due to the actual condition. Its now time for some action. One shop accidentaly sprayed tar for underside protection over the sides of the car ... they are now grey instead of white Edit: I forgot to mention that the engine bay will also be done, looks horrible too |
Wow, you're so lucky it really only affected the door (from the look of it). I'd have probably disowned my dad.
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Ugh, that thing looks very clean too.
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Hello,
small update, I got my new used door and installed it. Was a pita but now I have a functional door again. It really did just damage the door, shell around the door was fine. :nod: Now I need to get in touch with a body shop who will be able to handle the task. I am still debating if I should install a full weld in cage or not. If I do so, then it needs to be done before paint. Hmmm, decisions... Steven |
The next series, the engine bay got cleaned and almost every stuff is out there.
Brake booster, clutch master, transmission, brake lines, main harness and battery tray are still bolted. The steering rack is still installed too, cannot remove it otherwise I am unable to pull the car out of the garage. http://i1233.photobucket.com/albums/...ssembly/12.jpg http://i1233.photobucket.com/albums/...ssembly/13.jpg http://i1233.photobucket.com/albums/...ssembly/14.jpg http://i1233.photobucket.com/albums/...ssembly/15.jpg http://i1233.photobucket.com/albums/...ssembly/16.jpg http://i1233.photobucket.com/albums/...ssembly/17.jpg The real carnage has yet to come ...:( |
Well yes, as I was digging under the car for some lines and bolts, I found a rust spot and followed it.
This is what it turned into: http://i1233.photobucket.com/albums/...st_spots/2.jpg http://i1233.photobucket.com/albums/...st_spots/3.jpg http://i1233.photobucket.com/albums/...st_spots/4.jpg Courious to what it looks like on the pass side: http://i1233.photobucket.com/albums/...st_spots/5.jpg Passenger side. Well this side is supposed to have been "professionally repaired" *glancing over to the bill* :scratch: Yep that says: "Chassis repair/welding 869,57 " (1157.48 $) :icon_tdow Take a look at that video: (click it) http://i1233.photobucket.com/albums/...h_P1020973.jpg And this video from the passenger side: (click it) http://i1233.photobucket.com/albums/...h_P1020979.jpg I cannot describe it with words, they ripped me off, tack welding some shit over(!) the rusty place and covering it with undercoating. So it looks good and passes Inspection ... Steven |
looks like a lot of work!
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wow that sucks. How long did you have the car? When I buy a car, i always look underneath it, if it was a few years ago im sure you would have noticed that rust building up. Is rust a common issue in your area? That would need some sections cut out of a donor car and welded up, which requires some fabrication skill. Or perhaps cut out the rust areas, and form some sheet metal to the contours and weld it up.
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Good god! If you still have receipts from getting that done I would sue the piss out of the shop that did that! If that's all they did for you imagine some other cars they have worked on. This could cause safety hazards to the owners, its a compromised chassis. That's a severely weakened frame in the event of a wreck had it been much worse.
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