Just put my lsd back together and put it in to adjust the backlash and bearing play. I went to put the cover on, had it all rtv'd up and everything and spent an hour and a half trying to wiggle it on, pound it on. Those 4 little stub things that hold the diff inside the pumpkin aren't sliding into their home. I put grease on them and tried again and then launched the diff into the yard pissed as f*ck. This is the first time i've gotten really mad at my fc. I had to stop and think for a split second before i put my fist through my hatch glass of my parts car......

f*ck!

 

You know what, i think i put the bearing caps on the wrong sides......

Easy fix.

******* bullshit though. I have to scrape all that rtv off and do it over again. AYE! If that doesn't work i swear to god i'm going to hurt myself in a fit of rage trying to break **** with my arms and legs that are stronger than my arms and legs..... A man can only take so much from an inanimate object.

 

What diff cover?

 

??? i hate getting pissed

 

s4 n/a clutch type........


I wish i could just swap the guts into an open diff pumpkin at this point. I so hashed one of the bolt holes by beating on the cast iron with a hammer.

 

goozefraba

 

could be not preloaded tight enought

 

Sounds like drinking while working on the FC isn't working out too well for you.

Are you sure you assembled the internals correctly?

 

It's not the internals that was the problem. It was getting the case halves assembled. You know, the pumpkin. I dont know what the **** is called.

The lsd unit itself that houses the spider gears, springs and clutch disks went together smooth. It was after setting the backlash and putting the pumpkin backtogether that i ran into problems.

I had to move the bearing caps inward a cunthair and it all worked out.

I tried flipping them, that **** didn't work so i moved em foward a tooth (which i didn't think was possible given the width of the cap bolts) and bammo. It's' all rtv'd up with the stub shaft holes plugged ready to install tomorrow. Woo. FInally get to put the rear end back together!

It was the lack of drinking while working on the fc that made me lose my head. It was hot, had to go to work and i had a goal to get that **** together before i went to work. It wasn't happening and i'm trying to get my car together so naturally, i was pissed.


Ps, fubared bolt hole was fixed with a flared center punch. Oh how i love being me.

Now when somebody searches they can find something useful.......

Good grief charlie brown.

 

****. Another problem.

It's a T2 DIFF!

FUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuUUUU UUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUU!


Ok, now, i know i can use the T2 stub shafts with the s4 n/a axles fo sho. Well, not fo sho but they look like they'll fit.

The driveshaft bolt pattern is wider but there is room for improvision. I grabbed my buddy andrew's dremel tool. I'm going to hack the dogpiss out of the driveshaft tomorrow and get this bastard bolted in. What i mean by "hack the dogpiss" i mean i'm going to slot the driveshaft bolt holes. Is this safe? Sure. WIth 100whp it should be fine and dandy. Plus the **** is hubcentric. dont knock my ghetto ways. I make **** work while the rest of you are like "spend more money". **** that.

 

if it makes you feel better, this thread made me lol!



I had the diff cover off of my TII and when I put it back together guess what, it leaks now. So I've got to take it off again. shitty airplane RTV sucks ***, why did I buy that ****.

 

im running well over 200whp and i modded my t2 driveshaft to fit the na diff.. its gehetto but it worked..

 

I promise your setup is stronger than mine. Well, maybe not with you snapping stub shafts and all but we did sort of different things to get different spec diff/drivetrain parts to fit with one another. You just sparked the idea, that's all.