Josh18_2k

iTrader: (3)

tomorrow has passed.

make with the new pics!

ajhehr

Im an idiot, I totally forgot... will try tomorrow,,, please dont mind the rust. Ive been neglecting her more than a little.

*edit> found one, can take more if you like.



I welded the tabs to make a double sheer adjustable slot for the aluminum stanchion... BTW the material they made the hatch out of sucks to weld to...
took me hours, well that and trying not to brake the glass... just 3~4 beads at a time with lots of water soaked rags. SO i got a nice little steam bath out of the deal!

SirCygnus

iTrader: (1)

nice. i wouldnt have noticed. thse tabs at all.

ajhehr

most people think I welded my hatch shut

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whats your tire to strut clearance like up front? how much room do you have?

ajhehr

CRAP, SORRY just saw this.

about 1/4"

RotaSpinna69

iTrader: (10)

Which GT500 spoiler is this? FD? Universal?

Also, where are you located in Houston? I'd really like to see this car in person to compare with my own project.

Thanks,

Andrew

mazdadude

iTrader: (2)

Nice work on the car, I love track prepped FC's!

ajhehr

its the universal one...

my shop is at 610 and I10 west. but the car is at my house waiting on me to freshin up the motor and install the new intake and exhaust manifolds... and about a dozen other changes. I think were going to finish the body work and paint it. its going to be a while... there are also 2 other cars in line before it...

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thanks for your tips on the wheel sizes and offsets.

I've managed to get 275's and 315's on my own car using 30mm dmax fenders front and rear. Using the FR500 mustang wheels, and 20mm front and 15mm spacer rear. Plenty of strut/lca clearance. Can go less spacer if required.

Josh18_2k

iTrader: (3)

pics plz?

ajhehr

keep it as high as you can go, on a6's I had 1" of deflection and had to cut the rear controll arms back for clearance.

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Hopefully ajhehr doesn't mind posting in his thread:


Yeah i realise this, for fitment, i only used some cheap federals front and sumitomos rear. Camber is as much as i can wind in at the front (about 3 degrees) and the rear is using stock camber link. I measured the rear camber at around 1.5 degrees of camber (could be totally wrong).

I'm making up some castor/camber plates to allow for mode adjustment in the front, and i have a adjustable rear camberlink to go in, as well as some of my own designed individual adjusters (just have to make them first. ) I've making up some plates to go on the lower control arm to push the lower ball joint outwards to get more track. And move the ball joint forward to get more castor.

ajhehr

I dont mind at all... but what are you planing to do with this car...

3 deg i n the front is to much. brakes and push will suffer badly.

Increased track in the rear is also a bad thing for turning, it will cause more push also.

I can get you closer but you'll need to tell me what this car is for...

datsun1200

Shot with SP510UZ at 2008-05-03

Shot with SP510UZ at 2008-05-03

Where did you get those light's...

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Primarily what you guys call road racing. Initially going to do local track days to sort the car out, and then join the local Time Attack series.

Front camber is a total guess, its what the Tein HA's are pushed in as far as they go. Wasn't planning on increasing the track in the rear, only pushed the wheel out for clearance. I want to increase the track in the front, with the S4's lower control arm, the ball joint is bolted on with 2 bolts. Going to machine a plate to push that outward by about an inch on both sides. Gaining camber and track.

ajhehr

there was a small GB a few years ago...

ajhehr

caster is king on the front of these car, try not to run more the 1.5 deg of camber. front swaybar is a must, I have an adjustable rear bar mostly for balance adjustment. I use the tire pressure and the rear swaybar almost exclusively to adjust the balance from day to day, I think your springs are softer then mine so if anything your going to have more travel so you may want to even run less camber, although you should be able to offset 5% or so bc off your lower control arm length. were you also planning on spacing the front coilover out from the hub (a double sheer/block)? this would allow enough space to ditch your front spacers and move the fulcrum of the front hub pivot, should help with some of the detrimental geometry of the wide tires.

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tein ha springs are 8kg/6kg. Currently using stock swaybars but will be upgrading to whiteline adjustables. Delrin/poly bushes everywhere, dtss eliminators etc.

My idea of the LCA plates for S4 LCA's.


With the LCA plates, a guy here has already done it (after my suggestion) and came up with this:


Very similar with my original idea, but extended it further by moving the ball joint forwards, gaining even more castor.

muppet

Ok ajhehr i just want to say this is what my fc would look like at this stage if i had the resources and time, great job man...

ajhehr

Thanks. Im working on my 240 and my volvo now adays, but I really appreaciate it. I should be getting back to the rx7 and finishing it with all the last goodies toward the end of the year.

SouthSideSlider

what kinda volvo? wait i think i alrady asked that. ohwell.

puhpaper

iTrader: (6)

you guys are serious about fitting 275's in the front with 315's in the back? That's soo much tire.

What are the wheel widths, front and rear?

MaczPayne

iTrader: (5)

^I was going to run 275 all around before I snuffed my car.

dpf22

Its what happens when you get SERIOUS about grip. Autox emphasizes quick smooth reactions while maximizing grip. Its all about control. Smooth is fast, fast is not always smooth.