Hm... Swaps? If you're going to stay a quai-purist, do either an REW or 20b.... Otherwise, I'd say do a built SR20.

Don't get me wrong, an LS# swap would be sick and give you HELLA torque, but would also throw the dynamic balance of the car WAY off...

After that, it's either make it a tracked car (with a bit of mods to greatness like a stout cage and brake-upgrade) or attempt to keep it a DD and start looking into some SERIOUS suspension and huge brakes.

Either way, it's going to be an undertaking, but I've got faith that everything'll work out, for you - if you keep your build plan pretty linear.

 

"Effects On Weight, Balance, and Handling...
...This is where you probably expected there to be a downside. People have probably told you that your handling and perfect weight distribution will be ruined with the addition of that big, heavy, american V-8. Just ask yourself if any of those so-called experts you have been talking to have any actual experience with piston-powered RX-7s. We’ve got the numbers to prove all those bystanders and spectators are just that....bystanders and spectators.
Here are some real numbers from a typical 2nd gen RX-7 converted to Chevy power:
The example car is an ‘86, which was not lightened in any way. The car was converted using an LS1 engine & T-56 transmission. It has a full stock interior, as well as the stock air conditioning and power steering. The stock RX-7 cooling system was re-located but retained. The battery was relocated to rear area just in front of the tail lites. With a full tank of fuel, the balance is actually rear heavy. Considering that the LS1 has an aluminum block and heads, and a plastic intake manifold, there is a good chance that your Rx-7 will actually be lighter with an LS1."

http://www.grannysspeedshop.com/

You'll have to forgive me, somewhere on the site is a more exact number, but i can't find it at the moment. Not to show any bias to keeping a rotary vs. going with a v8. I've just been doing my homework lately, trying to decide the best route should my fc engine be a dud.

 

Minus one thing:

This swap was done on an S4 coupe; not an S5 convertible. Since nearly every number is different between not just the S4 and S5 but certainly between the coupe and the vert, it isn't exactly the best equation of equilibrium.

I wasn't referring to, 'nose-heavy' in the corner-weighting sense. I was referring to that in the aspect of chassis design and brake bias.

 

OMG that kitten is effing cute. lol

 

That BMW is beat to ish.

 

what is wrong with an easy swap like 13bt? why would you even go rew if you can get the better re for the same amount?

this thread is so confusing.

 

Why follow the crowd?

 

sorry about that TrboSpdAnt, i was at work and speed reading.

 

TrboSpdAnt and DKRacing >> What're you guys talking about? He already said he's doing an REW swap?

rotary_bünta >> hehe, glad you like it ^_^

 

D-OH!

 

no chevy its not going to be my DD, i drive a nissan for my DD. I want it to be my car i drive when i am cruising around town and of course my drift car . Thanks for the support trbospdant, i really appreciate it and just putting this out there i have an s4 vert, its an 88. I have to agree with you rotary bunta that kitten is cute lol, it brightens my day up whenever i see it lmao. Exactly jagger why follow the crowd, I like the REW thats just my opinion. Just like its your opinion to just go with a 13bt. Sorry i responded to everyone in one paragraph. Now to what this thread is for i have an update. Engine and tranny are out!! Now its time to clean the hell out of the bay, which i will be doing this weekend. Its 1 a.m. here and i have work tomorrow, so im about to go to bed. But i do have sat off ill keep you guys updated.

 

Interesting post-script to this: I just ordered a street-ported REW keg to replace the one that a client blew (also SP)...

So now I have a street-ported REW for my vert! Gigetty...Gigetty... Gigetty!

I mean... albeit minus the harnes (since I have a couple of S5 ECUs, THAT's not a problem... Mebbe PFC... Still need a harness, regardless, but at least I have the engine!

If the rotors as still good, I'll probably drop those housings in my Project S4.5 with a PFC and touch up my street-port. heheheheheheheh.

 

ok i got some pics for everyone. Its the engine and trans. This Saturday i am welding in a cross member and making a custom trans and diff mount. Till i get some more done to update, see you guys later.

 

This is a moc up of the cross member I am welding in Saturday. I wanted to use the motor mounts and not just bolt directly to the engine. I still have to take out the old motor mounts and cut out the old cross member. The first pic is before I cut it to fit flush, just wanted to see how it fit on the engine. Tell me what you guys think.

 

Niiiiice. Hey, before you do the welding, why not share the knowledge of the measurements that you added on; that way we can get on your wagon!

 

I am using1/8'' thick 2x2 steel tube and 1/4'' thick steel plate. The center tube is 14'' long the two outside pieces are 7 5/8'' and the two square plates are 4x4. I am going to cut a 1/4'' from the top of the two outside tubes so that the plates sit flush. I also measure from the top of this moc up to the top of the firewall to see if there would be enough space for the engine and there is plenty. Also there is enough space for the oil pan too. I will quadruple check all my measurements before i start to weld anything.

 

Damn, man, that's awesome!

Those pieces are add-ons to the existing X-member or replacement bits?

 

 

I took out the original cross member trbo and i am replacing it with this custom piece. its 11:52 p.m. lol and i am going to try and get it done. I will definately have it done tomorrow

 

Hmm.. Sad that the automatic crossmember isn't quite far enough forward for the FD mounting points..

Though is it right to remove it? I can't remember if it attached to the body or just the front subframe. [My thinking is that if it stiffens the body, would it be sufficient to just have your new piece which is only connected to the subframe?]

 

i have a manual derek and it attached to the bottom of the body and sub frame. Two bolts on each side attached to the body and one on each side to the frame. Im thinking that the cross member i am putting it will be sufficient enough replacement. I am also putting in a strut bar to help stiffen things up. I just thought about this last night, since i have the interior out and also the engine bay cleaned up. Why not seam weld everything to stiffen things up a bit so that my goals for this weekend, get the engine and trans mounted and to seam weld the car.

 

That's the extra support the verts have. What a lot of people do down here in Florida is weld in a triangle to the vert support on both sides so the mount is removable .fd motors love to leak oil at the motor mount bolts . Keep up the good work

 

That's the extra support the verts have. What a lot of people do down here in Florida is weld in a triangle to the vert support on both sides so the mount is removable .fd motors love to leak oil at the motor mount bolts . Keep up the good work

 

I didn't know about that one. A triangle, where? Mount > Mount > ???

Un/f I'm in Palm Beach,ATM... Mu Grandfather passed away , early this afternoon so I had to drive the Saturn down from Gainesville...

Wish I had the 'vert done this last week, but been so busy with prepping our track-car for IFO, tomorrow, that I've been neglecting mine...

Minus a couple things Heheheheheh... Gonna put pics in my gallery, here, in a min.

 

Is it really rude boy?? Cuz i took it out and it didnt seem like it supported anything. Im sure it helps stiffen things up, but it was just bolted up not welded or anything. Im sure the new cross member im putting in will make sure things stay as stiff if not stiffer. OMG rude boy are you right as far as the oil leakage. Its even worse when you take the mounts out lol. Its like taking the drain plug out, why mazda would ever do that leaves me baffled. I am wanting to know the same thing as trbo as far as the triangle, where, what size, etc details please. Trbo where is your track? IFO is coming to a city near me on march 27 its in shreveport, LA. I am definately going to try and have my car done.