The quality isn't good, but you get to see and hear it, so you know I'm not lying

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZwoZZYdXtbo

The annoying rattling/squeaking is the bar holding up the hood. Some of you may recognize parts you used to own.

Still have work to do. I need to be 100% on the timing, but I am unsure because when I had set per the FSM instructions, my CAS wound up being all the way to the left. I must have tried 100x to get it to the middle, but it wouldn't set in that position. Right now it's in the middle regardless and it's starting up fine but I will need to make sure it's perfect.

This is the 3rd start and I drove it up and down the driveway this time. It first fired up Friday night. I have to wire in my fuel cutoff switch but fortunately I haven't needed it yet.

I have to go through all my intake clamps and make sure nothing is leaking as you can see I'm not pulling any vacuum However, I do not expect it to pull much with all that IC piping.

Specs!
Haltech E6K
Greddy TD06-20G. All greddy/trust piping + intercooler
Walbro 255, Aeromotive FPR, 550/1600 injectors
Innovative Wideband, Autometer Oil Pressure (mechanical), Water, and vacuum/boost gauges.
ACT Street/strip clutch and PP

 

we have similiar set-ups, my snail is a bit larger but you should see similiar gains, if you dont have any kind of ignition you should consider an msd for your leading coil. with a good tune you should see around 375-400 with a good tune. dont get crazy if you didnt dowel that motor, you dont want to crack an iron and ruin a good time.

 

Ooopsy, forgot to mention I do have 3(!) MSD 6A's. They were done previous to me buying the
car.
Motor is slightly ported and it was making 315 wheel.

 

It looks like the vacuum gauge isn't hooked up to the right port. If you hook it up to a nipple that doesn't see vacuum (sees pre TB air) it will not register any vacuum. To confirm, while the cars running you can remove your boost gauge line and place your finger over the port and feel for any vacuum. Your intercooler piping will have no effect on vacuum reading since it is before the throttle body.

lol @ the hood squeaking, mine does the EXACT same thing. The CAS is a bitch btw but its perfectly fine for it to be all the way on either side as long as you verified adjustment with a timing light. It really is difficult to get it in the middle. The car sounds good btw.

 

You can hear the portjob a little.. Congrats on the build! Hope to have mine up in the next few weeks.

 

are you sure your crank pulley and hub are matched from the same engine? If not, your timing marks could be wrong. I bought a brand new pulley/hub from Mazda and with the marks lined up the CAS was pretty much in the middle.

 

good job. congrats!

 

That's the thing; I don't know. I did a lot of reading regarding pulley's and hubs, and how despite being all the same engine, the pulley's may not interchange with others because they are made specifically for their engine. I read how some can vary as much as 15 degrees. I found hailers thread on how to locate TDC for sure, I may have to try this: https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generation-specific-1986-1992-17/unsure-tdc-724942/


I am running the line off 1 of the 3 front nipples of the UIM. I know it's the right spot. Also when I hit the gas a little it does pull about 5 inches. I did discover my line was ruptured though at the end where the brass fittings come together. I fixed it but did not start again after as I had to call it quits for today. So tomorrow night I'll probably start it and work out some more kinks.

How soon do you guys think I should do an oil change? I'd say the car has maybe 20-25 minutes of idle time.

 

the vacuum should not go up when you hit the gas, it should go up at idle or decel. It will boost a little bit

maybe the wording is what I am not getting at it, when I see "go up" I think the gauge is going up, vacuum technically goes "down" on the gauge