Post some photographs. Take it for a test drive. Drive it until warm and cycle the engine on and off when warm, get a proper compression check. The white is common for peeling. The mirrors plastic gets fragile over the years and can crack easily but mirrors are available for sale on ebay ect... Try and talk him down closer to $4k if you can verify compression numbers. Good luck!
-M

 

Thanks, I did drive it at like 5 miles per hour for a minute and revved it a few times so I will definently do another test drive. How would I do a compression test and we already talked him down from $7k so no going lower.

 

 

Agreed it's best to leave it a stock example if it's a clean car. I would drive it up to operating temperature (15-20 minuets ideally) Then drive it through the rev band and see if there's any hesitations during the secondary injectors coming online. Check for any popping or smoke during deceleration while in gear, check the feel of the clutch and braking system. Check and make sure the secondary ports and VDI are opening (you'll feel these powerband increase around 4k and at 5k rpms (cant remember exact rpms at which the actuation occurs), but it only works during WOT under load (accelerating the car, not just revving) These cars are approaching 30 years old so they will have some quirks..

Ideally you'll need a rotary compression checking tool, but you can get away with using a standard PSI gauge and just watch the needle bounce.

If it sounds like a good deal and you trust the seller than the decision is totally up to you my friend.

Good luck!
-M

 

 

1. If it sounds good.
2. If you run it up to temp, turn it off, and it starts right up.
3. If there's no white smoke.
4. If it pulls good.

You probably don't need the compression test.