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Want to buy an n/a fc does it sound good
I have been addicted to rotary engines since the day I’ve heard of them. I finally want to buy one, it’s a 91 gxl and has no rust, the engine bay is emmaculate, like it has had a rebuild in the past 10-15 k miles but has the awful white paint so it’s flaking off which I don’t care about we will probabaly repaint it anyways. The only big problem is that the driver side mirror is broken on the edge but it still works. It’s on sale for $5k should I get it? |
I forgot to say that it has 135,000 miles on it. It does run beautifully and passed emissions. And the radio turns on which is actually more of a complaint than the mirror. |
Post some photographs. Take it for a test drive. Drive it until warm and cycle the engine on and off when warm, get a proper compression check. The white is common for peeling. The mirrors plastic gets fragile over the years and can crack easily but mirrors are available for sale on ebay ect... Try and talk him down closer to $4k if you can verify compression numbers. Good luck!
-M |
Thanks, I did drive it at like 5 miles per hour for a minute and revved it a few times so I will definently do another test drive. How would I do a compression test and we already talked him down from $7k so no going lower.
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I can’t get the pictures to work yet but I will keep trying, I also forgot to mention that it still has its owners Manual and warranty information in the leather case if that means anything. IF I do get it then I would love to make a forum about the build. The thing is that everything is original so it wouldn’t be smart to change much so I would probably just do some paintwork and switch the wheels or something but not make it into a racing machine. |
Agreed it's best to leave it a stock example if it's a clean car. I would drive it up to operating temperature (15-20 minuets ideally) Then drive it through the rev band and see if there's any hesitations during the secondary injectors coming online. Check for any popping or smoke during deceleration while in gear, check the feel of the clutch and braking system. Check and make sure the secondary ports and VDI are opening (you'll feel these powerband increase around 4k and at 5k rpms (cant remember exact rpms at which the actuation occurs), but it only works during WOT under load (accelerating the car, not just revving) These cars are approaching 30 years old so they will have some quirks..
Ideally you'll need a rotary compression checking tool, but you can get away with using a standard PSI gauge and just watch the needle bounce. If it sounds like a good deal and you trust the seller than the decision is totally up to you my friend. Good luck! -M |
Thank you. So I was talking to the guy and it has plenty of power and so he has no reason of checking the compression since it’s running fine. Do you think this is rational? |
1. If it sounds good.
2. If you run it up to temp, turn it off, and it starts right up. 3. If there's no white smoke. 4. If it pulls good. You probably don't need the compression test. |
Thank you
We drove another one it was grey and the white one seemed to have less power in comparison and wasn’t in as good of condition and the grey one has 20,000 miles on it so we have ruled the white one out sorry I should probably delete this thread if I can |
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