Steering wheel hub adapter that WON'T crush the turn signal canceler
#1
Steering wheel hub adapter that WON'T crush the turn signal canceler
Something that's bothered me for years is the hub adapter that came with my Mazdaspeed wheel in my FC crushed my turn signal canceler. I chocked that up at the time to my negligence, as I know it's easy to damage if misaligned. I sourced a replacement canceler and this time was much more cautious during install, but still crushed the canceler. What I observed is that the hub adapter will not "bottom out" until the canceler is destroyed. I believe there is a taper on the spline, so I imagine this adapter just was not designed to keep the canceler.
I've seen threads over the years where people confirm keeping the canceler with an aftermarket wheel. So the question is, what brand hub adapter have you had success with? I'm glad to buy something else if it will work, but I would like to avoid destroying these turn signal cancelers...they're getting harder to come by!
I've seen threads over the years where people confirm keeping the canceler with an aftermarket wheel. So the question is, what brand hub adapter have you had success with? I'm glad to buy something else if it will work, but I would like to avoid destroying these turn signal cancelers...they're getting harder to come by!
#2
Cake or Death?
iTrader: (2)
Maybe instead of changing the hub, change the cancel sleeve., which is after all, a pretty simple piece.
A trip to Ace Racing would probably provide the raw material for only a bit of money.
I'd start with an ABS plumbing fitting with a suitable ID and the thickest wall available (OD is not an issue as I recall). and use brass tubing as the fingers that engage the wheel.
Or whatever presents itself.
A trip to Ace Racing would probably provide the raw material for only a bit of money.
I'd start with an ABS plumbing fitting with a suitable ID and the thickest wall available (OD is not an issue as I recall). and use brass tubing as the fingers that engage the wheel.
Or whatever presents itself.
#3
Moderator
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: https://www2.mazda.com/en/100th/
Posts: 30,957
Received 2,681 Likes
on
1,897 Posts
the FC has a different offset than the FD/1st gen/Miata. so you get to crush parts, or it won't engage at all
clokkers solution might be easiest, and if you had one, there might be a smaller cancel cam on some other Mazda
clokkers solution might be easiest, and if you had one, there might be a smaller cancel cam on some other Mazda
#5
Cake or Death?
iTrader: (2)
If you "totally destroyed" not just the collar but the cancel mechanism itself, I would suggest you not work on cars anymore.
That would take a serious amount of force to achieve and most normal folk would have felt something going on long before complete ruin was reached.
I'm hoping you just misremembered the situation.
Let's assume the mechanism is intact...all you need to do is install the hub without the collar and see how much space you have to work with..
Make sure the hub is fully tightened down as it appears that it goes further than the stock wheel would.
That would take a serious amount of force to achieve and most normal folk would have felt something going on long before complete ruin was reached.
I'm hoping you just misremembered the situation.
Let's assume the mechanism is intact...all you need to do is install the hub without the collar and see how much space you have to work with..
Make sure the hub is fully tightened down as it appears that it goes further than the stock wheel would.
#6
Originally Posted by clokker
If you "totally destroyed" not just the collar but the cancel mechanism itself, I would suggest you not work on cars anymore.
That would take a serious amount of force to achieve and most normal folk would have felt something going on long before complete ruin was reached.
I'm hoping you just misremembered the situation.
Let's assume the mechanism is intact...all you need to do is install the hub without the collar and see how much space you have to work with..
Make sure the hub is fully tightened down as it appears that it goes further than the stock wheel would.
That would take a serious amount of force to achieve and most normal folk would have felt something going on long before complete ruin was reached.
I'm hoping you just misremembered the situation.
Let's assume the mechanism is intact...all you need to do is install the hub without the collar and see how much space you have to work with..
Make sure the hub is fully tightened down as it appears that it goes further than the stock wheel would.
You may be right, I'll have to remove the wheel and assess the damage. Perhaps "totally destroyed" was a little theatrical as well.
Feeling/hearing the crunching of plastic is not the issue, but getting the hub secured is. Once the damage was done, at the moment all that mattered was the hub is secure.
Trending Topics
#8
Originally Posted by clokker
Um, feeling/hearing the crunching of plastic is definitely the issue and I don't feel it's "theatrical" to point that out.
Originally Posted by clokker
The ole "the ends justify the means" defense, eh?
I'll investigate the extent of the damage when the cold snap passes.
#10
Reporting back as promised, it looks like the canceler did not sustain any damage (from what I can see). The collar did start to crack, and I must have removed the collar before further damage was done. I'm going to try and have the collar 3D scanned and shortened, hopefully solving the issue.
#11
Rotary Freak
iTrader: (7)
I crushed the canceler in my S4 using a Momo hub too. There is definitely a difference between FC and FB/FD/Miata hubs. I ended up finding a used FC-specific JDM hub on eBay and it had a small lip that bottomed out on the steering shaft before the cancelerer would get destroyed. You could probably make a little 1/8"-3/16" thick spacer that would accomplish the same thing. It'd fit on the steering shaft beneath the hub, with an ID slightly larger than the splines and an OD slightly less than the canceler collar. I'm not sure where'd you'd find the proper FC hub, otherwise. NRG and Momo both don't have the proper lip and there weren't any name brand markings on my JDM hub.
#12
Originally Posted by Shainiac
I crushed the canceler in my S4 using a Momo hub too. There is definitely a difference between FC and FB/FD/Miata hubs. I ended up finding a used FC-specific JDM hub on eBay and it had a small lip that bottomed out on the steering shaft before the cancelerer would get destroyed. You could probably make a little 1/8"-3/16" thick spacer that would accomplish the same thing. It'd fit on the steering shaft beneath the hub, with an ID slightly larger than the splines and an OD slightly less than the canceler collar. I'm not sure where'd you'd find the proper FC hub, otherwise. NRG and Momo both don't have the proper lip and there weren't any name brand markings on my JDM hub.
For anyone in the future who's wondering, I asked an ME at work to model something similar to the stock collar up and we 3D printed a few options shorter than the standard part. First try, a part 50% as tall worked perfectly. Couldn't be happier.
#13
Rotary Freak
iTrader: (7)
I found a hub on eBay that has the correct spacer ring. It''s labeled Momo, but is different that the Momo I own. I think the one they sell now is universal Miata/FD/FC, when in reality it doesn't have the spacer for FC, but the splines fit.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Mazda-Rx7-S...Condition=3000
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Mazda-Rx7-S...Condition=3000
#14
Ban Peak
iTrader: (49)
Trim the cancel ring and call it a day. In 2019 I'm sure someone could 3D print a "short" verison too.
Here's a thread of mine from years ago about the same issue:
https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generati...e-play-980952/
Here's a thread of mine from years ago about the same issue:
https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generati...e-play-980952/
#15
Originally Posted by Molotovman
Trim the cancel ring and call it a day. In 2019 I'm sure someone could 3D print a "short" verison too.
Here's a thread of mine from years ago about the same issue:
https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generati...e-play-980952/
Here's a thread of mine from years ago about the same issue:
https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generati...e-play-980952/
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
philstar
2nd Generation Specific (1986-1992)
19
11-06-12 12:24 PM
Turbo Timmy
2nd Generation Specific (1986-1992)
7
03-09-03 08:08 PM