installed aftermarket steering wheel, now turn signals dont work properly?
03-26-12, 09:03 PM
#1
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installed aftermarket steering wheel, now turn signals dont work properly?
Just put in an aftermarket steering wheel, and now when I put my turn signals on, they work fine but the second I start making the turn, they click off before I complete the turn.
What did I do? lol
What did I do? lol
03-26-12, 09:32 PM
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I assume that is the plastic piece with the two nubs that goes directly into the back of the hub correct?
I originally tightened the steering hub nut too tight (car was very hard to steer), I guess I may have mashed the parts. It looked okay visually when I took the hub off again and reinstalled the wheel with the right nut torque. At least the car steers normal now but i guess maybe I did some damage to that part even though it looked okay =(
I originally tightened the steering hub nut too tight (car was very hard to steer), I guess I may have mashed the parts. It looked okay visually when I took the hub off again and reinstalled the wheel with the right nut torque. At least the car steers normal now but i guess maybe I did some damage to that part even though it looked okay =(
03-26-12, 10:07 PM
#4
Driving RX7's since 1979
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Yup. You probably need another turn signal collar. You aren't the first one to make that mistake.
When you replace the collar, make sure the holes the nubs go into are at 6 and 12 oclock. Later model mazda's like the Miata are at 3 & 6. So you might have to drill a couple holes for your RX7 application.
When you replace the collar, make sure the holes the nubs go into are at 6 and 12 oclock. Later model mazda's like the Miata are at 3 & 6. So you might have to drill a couple holes for your RX7 application.
03-26-12, 10:36 PM
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Thanks for the help! I did have to drill into the hub at the 6 and 12 position. Do I need to replace the entire assembly with the steering speed sensor? Or can I just find the turn signal collar? It visually looked fine but obviously something is wrong.
Does anyone have a picture of what I exactly need to replace? Thanks in advance!
Does anyone have a picture of what I exactly need to replace? Thanks in advance!
03-27-12, 04:29 PM
#7
You'd better hope not.
The "collar" that connects the wheel to the sensor (in your pic it's the dark grey piece) has two nubs that fit into holes on the wheel, on the opposite end, two more nubs that key to the sensor ring.
If all those nubbins are in good shape, you should be fine.
Before wheel/hub install, insert the collar so it's locked into the sensor ring, the two nubs are at 6 and 12 o'clock and the indicator arrow is aligned with the mark on the sensor body (it's at 9 o'clock).
That's it.
The "collar" that connects the wheel to the sensor (in your pic it's the dark grey piece) has two nubs that fit into holes on the wheel, on the opposite end, two more nubs that key to the sensor ring.
If all those nubbins are in good shape, you should be fine.
Before wheel/hub install, insert the collar so it's locked into the sensor ring, the two nubs are at 6 and 12 o'clock and the indicator arrow is aligned with the mark on the sensor body (it's at 9 o'clock).
That's it.
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03-30-12, 06:48 AM
#12
No, there is a difference between a manual rack car (originally) & PS car. PS car has an included steering angle sensor to input that information to the PS computer, manual rack does not. You can use a PS or manual rack turn signal cancelator in a manual rack car, but you can only use a PS cancelator in a PS car. You'll throw a code & the PS will start beeping one of the 5 trouble codes.
Also Philstar- I may have a spare as well, if you don't find one/yours ends up being wrecked.
Also Philstar- I may have a spare as well, if you don't find one/yours ends up being wrecked.
03-30-12, 08:33 AM
#14
There is a plastic "collar" that fits between the wheel hub and the switch itself...it's the part that actually transmits motion to the sensor.
This part is removable (fortunately, because it's commonly FUBAR'd) and the same for all models.
