question about Apex seals
#1
Full Member
Thread Starter
question about Apex seals
In the process of bringing my 88 back to life after sitting ten years. Engine had only maybe 15K kms on it when parked. Added ounce of mmo every three days and hand cranked for two weeks to free seals. Put it all back together, car doesn't start. Fuel was primed. Found bunk spark wire, coils resistance is within spec.
Compression tested with piston tester. Rear housing has even 90psi compression (at 3000ft altitude). Front housing clearly shows one apex seal not sealing (90-60-60).
My questions are, what with the engine being newish still (aside from sitting), is it possible/probable that one seal just hasn't freed up yet? Is it worth trying a little ATF?
Also, car was parked due to a seized water pump (and then life got away from me), so would an overheat cycle have fried/warped the seal?
Bear in mind when answering that I have a street ported motor from another car that I'm rebuilding to drop in, so "rebuild it" is not really a worthy answer lol. More just curious if there's any logic to my thinking
Compression tested with piston tester. Rear housing has even 90psi compression (at 3000ft altitude). Front housing clearly shows one apex seal not sealing (90-60-60).
My questions are, what with the engine being newish still (aside from sitting), is it possible/probable that one seal just hasn't freed up yet? Is it worth trying a little ATF?
Also, car was parked due to a seized water pump (and then life got away from me), so would an overheat cycle have fried/warped the seal?
Bear in mind when answering that I have a street ported motor from another car that I'm rebuilding to drop in, so "rebuild it" is not really a worthy answer lol. More just curious if there's any logic to my thinking
Last edited by docbong85; 09-08-19 at 09:13 AM.
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#10
Rotary Motoring
iTrader: (9)
Dry the plugs out with carb cleaner, electrical cleaner, etc put a bit of oil in engine through lower spark plug holes, crank it with no power to the fuel pump then put power back on the pump and it should start if the battery is charged.
Or if you are lazy, skip all that and use jumper cables to a running car and a bunch of starting fluid while cranking and letting it stumble with gas pedal held WOT and keep on the starter even as its stumbling until the tach heads to the moon.
Or if you are lazy, skip all that and use jumper cables to a running car and a bunch of starting fluid while cranking and letting it stumble with gas pedal held WOT and keep on the starter even as its stumbling until the tach heads to the moon.
#11
Have RX-7, will restore
iTrader: (91)
I would properly deoflood the engine by removing the spark plugs and the EGI fuses. Then crank the engine over to push the gas out of the spark plug holes. Inspect, clean, and dry the spark plugs and reinstall them and the EGI fuses and attempt to start the engine. When you are pushing the gas out if the engine, ensure the spark plug wires are nowhere near the plug holes as the fuel vapor cloud can be easily ignited. I usually place a pig may close to the plug holes when I crank the engine over to absorb as much fuel as possible. I also use a map gas torch and I heat the spark plugs to ensure they are clean and dry after cleaning them with throttle body cleaner.
#14
Full Member
Thread Starter
Spark on L+T #1, spark only on L2. Checked coil, it's good. New wires arrive tomoro.
Let's not get too distracted, the question remains is my logic sound in thinking the apex seal may just be stuck from sitting 9-10 years as the motor only has 21,000KMs on it since last complete rebuild. Also, motor was fine aside from the blown water pump when parked
Let's not get too distracted, the question remains is my logic sound in thinking the apex seal may just be stuck from sitting 9-10 years as the motor only has 21,000KMs on it since last complete rebuild. Also, motor was fine aside from the blown water pump when parked
#16
Senior Member
not distracted here. didn't mention if you checked for actual sparking. with 90 psi, that rotor should fire right up. since not a simple task to disable the injectors to the weak rotor, I'd remove the corresponding plugs, pour ATF in, and try to fire it up w/the good rotor. It's extremely possible apex to be stuck: I've seen it taking a motor apart that had been on a shelf for a while but not 10 years.
Last edited by Clubuser; 09-10-19 at 11:16 AM.
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