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I think theyre supposed to but the guys in this thread say it is a tps problem if the leading and railing fire at the same time at idle. I'm not really sure that's kind of beyond my knowledge but maybe something to check. https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generati...e-time-265965/
EDIT: after further reading Im not really sure, someone who knows a lot more than me needs to chime in here
I ended up letting go of gas when she reached a decent temp. She hovered around 1000….
I got out looked at thermowax and it extended so that’s working. Put coupler in and set idle down to 750 ish. Went to check tps (while running) put probes in and she wanted to stall. So I shut it off and checked ohms and adjusted. Started up perfectly fine. Idle still a bit wobbly, if I punch gas she hesitates, if I ramp her up to high rpm’s she begins to backfire
When cranking (not running), the ECU locks timing at zero split, I believe 5 degrees BTDC. Because leading both fire at the same time, this means both leading + 1 trailing fire at the same time.
Once the ECU doesn't see the key in the START position anymore, it assumes normal timing split behaviour.
Glad to hear it starts! Now that it will start and idle, you can try setting everything once it's completely warmed up and idling at or under 1000 rpm
I think it was the deflooding technique? Here’s exactly what I did..
2 days ago I tried to start car with the secondary injectors unplugged. No start. So I deflooded the car (lots of a gas). I then left the car.
next day did not try to start in stead deflooded again to see if there was gas in the cylinder. The rear cylinder seemed to still have a bit of gas.
next day checked by deflooding again and no gas came out at all. Decided to now try it. She started and stalled quick. I started again and prevented it from dying with a bit of gas. Sat there for a while till car warmed up and let go, she then idled 1000. Left her to warm more. She only really got to around 1/4-1/3 on temp gauge.
Car still running…..
checked timing bang on
put jumper in to adjust idle. Lowered idle to about 800ish
with jumper still in tried to check ohms tps (car did not like that) she tried to die.
Checked thermowax (fully extended)
noticed throttle cable kinda loose but left it
took out jumper
shut car off
unplugged tps and set using ohms
car running decent. Played with throttle manipulate tps a little this way that way to see if hesitation disappear etc.
shut car off and let fumes leave my garage.
came Back half hour later
tried to start it studdered. Sounded like flooding again. Unplugged fuel pump and tried and she fired… return fuel pump plug and no start
Testing air flow meter, all test check out but the last one? Not sure but e1-fc read no ohms. If I open the door a hair it the shows infinity… not 100tech savvy so not sure if just me or not…
ok I tested this by putting some electrical take to slightly open the door, causes the fuel pump to come on. So took it back off
After a little searching, I guess fuel does leak from the plug holes if the car is flooded. https://www.rx7club.com/1st-generati...-holes-894357/
Torque spec for those plugs is 10 ft pounds and it couldn't hurt to check they're tight though.
I always get caught up on something silly so thats the kind of thing I think about
What are those tubes visible in the photo with the spark plugs? And that metal frame? My car doesn't have those.
Anyhow, it's weird that it's still flooding. Normally the symptoms you describe are exactly what would happen with leaky injectors, except yours aren't leaky.
When you set the TPS, you should do it with the car off. Or if using the voltage method (my preferred method if you don't have a test-lamp) key to ON, but engine not running. Also make sure to press and release the linkage a few times, then recheck the TPS to make sure it hasn't drifted.
Regarding the MAF, it should normally be infinite resistance E1 to FC with the flapper door closed. This controls the fuel pump relay. If the door is open even a little, it should drop to 0 resistance. This is a safety mechanism so if the car is crashed and the engine shuts off, the lack of air flow will cause the fuel to stop pumping.
Not really sure what that is, it’s kinda like a bracket.
what about this? I’m looking at the pressure sensor
I added a green wire for extra ground. Bl/w wire is 12v from battery. Manual says that with key on one of those brown wires should read voltage. Neither showed any voltage
i though I checked this before….
Nevermind I had ego fuse out that’s what stopped that
After a little searching, I guess fuel does leak from the plug holes if the car is flooded. https://www.rx7club.com/1st-generati...-holes-894357/
Torque spec for those plugs is 10 ft pounds and it couldn't hurt to check they're tight though.
I always get caught up on something silly so thats the kind of thing I think about
ok thanks, i tightened them up anyway.
I also saw this in your thread….
I put the sock on and run about 37ish psi…. Before I pulled pump I had factory and it was the same pressure. Is my fuel pressure ok?
I put the sock on and run about 37ish psi…. Before I pulled pump I had factory and it was the same pressure. Is my fuel pressure ok?
Ok, so what did you do in the tank, replace pump and sock or just sock? How are you testing fuel pressure, with the gauge teed into the correct line or with the line ending at the gauge?
EDIT: The s4 fsm says the pressure should be 64-83 psi with the pump dead headed at the gauge and should be around 28.4psi with the engine idling, and 34-39 psi with the pump running and the regulator line off (probably the same as engine off and pump on).
I put a tee with pressure gauge between fuel filter and inlet on motor.
I replaced pump and sock
Then it seems like your pressure is spec, the only other thing would be to test it with the fuel dead headed at the gauge but If it's flooding Im not so sure its a fuel pressure problem. You could try to remove the injectors, attach them to the rail, and jumper the pump and see if they leak but if you trust whoever flow tested them that shouldn't be necessary. I had mine supposedly cleaned and flow tested but they didn't fire until I let them soak in diesel fuel for a couple of days. A basic test is to remove them, and click them with a 9 volt battery while blowing through them. At this point though it might be time to try swapping the ECU like Wondrousbread suggested. Have you ever pulled back the carpet and looked at the ecu? Mice can get in there and pee on it and cause some problems.
Then it seems like your pressure is spec, the only other thing would be to test it with the fuel dead headed at the gauge but If it's flooding Im not so sure its a fuel pressure problem. You could try to remove the injectors, attach them to the rail, and jumper the pump and see if they leak but if you trust whoever flow tested them that shouldn't be necessary. I had mine supposedly cleaned and flow tested but they didn't fire until I let them soak in diesel fuel for a couple of days. A basic test is to remove them, and click them with a 9 volt battery while blowing through them. At this point though it might be time to try swapping the ECU like Wondrousbread suggested. Have you ever pulled back the carpet and looked at the ecu? Mice can get in there and pee on it and cause some problems.
yes I did get into the ecu… I pulled dash apart to see if mice chewed wires behind dash as well. Ecu looks like it’s brand new. Here’s my issue, the cars are now 30ish years old. If I get another ecu it might be just as messed up. That’s why I haven’t leaped on that idea yet…. What I did find lately that may or may not have importance. The sensor on bottom of rad that I replaced is broken again? Weird but I order another. Second is that I tested alternator and it failed tests that were recommended from fsm. I ordered a replacement. I’ve pulled the injectors again and tested them for leakage/operation etc. I truly feel it’s more an electrical issue than fuel at this point. I’ve been chasing and reinforcing grounds
01-03-24, 04:48 PM
