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yes puddle of gas leaking between y pipe and presilencer
Okay, well priority 1 is making sure it's all cleaned up so there isn't a fire-hazard. I'm sure you already did that, but I just thought I'd mention it to be sure. You may also want to keep an extinguisher around in case of fire.
Before you take apart the intake (which I don't think is causing your issue anyways), I would try flood-clearing it again. But this time throw everything you have at the problem.
First, remove the EGI fuses under the hood so it won't inject fuel. Then crank it for like 10-15 seconds, wait a minute or two for the starter to cool, and then do it again. This should clear most anything that's still in the chamber.
Second, add some premix to the fuel of you haven't already, and then jump the yellow connector by the MAF and turn the key to ignition. This will circulate the fuel in the system so that all the premix mixes together. Leave it like that for a minute or two and then remove the jumper. The premix in the fuel will add a bit more lubricity to the fuel and help build a film. This shouldn't be necessary, but everything helps.
Three, remove the spark plugs and clean them thoroughly. Once you're 100% sure they're clean, let them air dry for 20 minutes in a warm place.
Four, add a bit of motor oil to each spark plug hole. Rotate the engine a few times, then do it again. This will help build up an oil film inside the chamber. You can also listen in case compression sounds uneven.
Fifth, charge the battery all the way up to 100%. If you have a jump pack or second battery, throw that in as well. Anything you can do to increase the starter speed will help it catch.
Sixth, try to start. Make sure you reinstalled the plugs and that the boots are on firmly. Giving it a bit of throttle tends to help too when there's a flood.
When it does start, do anything you can with your right foot to keep it from flooding again.
If it still won't start, a proper compression test is probably warranted. Even with a blown rotor my old engine wouldn't flood that bad.
That's the resistor pack for the injectors. It isn't hard to test, the procedure is in the manual. I don't think it would cause your problem, but it's worth checking just to eliminate one more possibility.
After they cleaned your injectors, did they flow-test them? I'm wondering if maybe one of the injectors is stuck open.
That's the resistor pack for the injectors. It isn't hard to test, the procedure is in the manual. I don't think it would cause your problem, but it's worth checking just to eliminate one more possibility.
After they cleaned your injectors, did they flow-test them? I'm wondering if maybe one of the injectors is stuck open.
he sent me a cool video of them spraying in a variety of ways? That what you mean?
It's hard to tell if spark is adequate visually. It certainly looks fine to me, but then it's different when it's under compression. That being said, the stock coils are pretty robust and I think your problem is elsewhere.
That intake gasket could have been leaking, but it normally wouldn't cause the car to flood out that badly.
Since you have the intake apart, take each of the injectors and quickly apply 12V across the terminals. Once they're cleaned of fuel, that is. You should hear an audible click from each one from the injector opening.
Also test each injector connector w/ key to IGN. There should be 12V at one terminal, and the other gets grounded by the ECU to fire the injector. If you test with the key to IGN and the engine not turning, I believe they should all show infinite resistance to ground. If any of them are showing constant ground, it might be an ECU issue.
Ok I hear click at each injector, I’ll do ignition test on Sunday.
on a side note, I got this from racing beat…. Do you recommend acv as recommended?
You don't technically need the ACV and air pump, since S4 models actuate the auxiliary ports with exhaust backpressure. They do help idle a bit, so it's not necessarily a bad idea to keep them, but the main purpose for those parts is emissions. If you want to delete them you can just use that blockoff plate and the ECU won't care at all.
Originally Posted by wopa20
Also, I never removed LIM last time, something I should do this time?
I think your problem is more likely fuel system related than intake related, but if you have it apart already then you may as well take off the LIM too and replace the gasket. Clean the aux port sleeves while you're in there. Make sure to align them properly when you reinstall the LIM. With the open side of the sleeve rotated to face the port (so the rear faces forward and the front faces rearward), the shafts on the LIM that the actuators pull on should be pulled against the inner stop. So basically the ports are closed when the actuator is not pulling in, but then open when the actuator pulls in.
Put everything back together. Left her overnight. Double checked everything, except the idle screw which I forget was all the way in. She started up with little help of throttle…… for about 2 min, let go of throttle she died immediately. Can’t start again. Flooding plugs again.
I have nothing unplugged. I took off ium and reseated it to make sure no leaks. I tested all injectors for operation and leaking. I’ve tested water thermo sensor and wire to ecu. I had the car started for a minute or two with help of throttle. I attempted to bring her to idle and she stalled and would not fire again. Lots of gas in cylinders.
I have spark
i have compression
i have fuel pressure
i Have air
i think the timing is set as it should be
new tps (although acts/looks different that old one)
new maf
new plugs new wires
new thermostatsensor
new water temp sensor
nee fuel pump
new fuel filter
I pull plugs and lots of gas comes out when turned over.
The ECU might be suspect at this point. You've gone through everything else more than once.
The other thing I'm thinking is that maybe there isn't enough air for it to idle and that's causing it to die. Normally that wouldn't cause a flood to occur, but it's the only other idea I have.
There is an idle-adjustment screw. It's directly on top of the throttle body (on some later models, under a rubber cover). If you turn this outward all the way (gently, until you feel it resist rotation) you'll increase the air flow at idle.
Maybe try starting it then and seeing if it will hold an idle. The other idle stuff needs to be set once it's 100% warmed up. You could also try unplugging the TPS for now, since it might be confusing the ECU because the TPS also needs to be set when warm.
Frankly, I'm mostly guessing at this point. You've done all the logical diagnosis and it's weird that the problem hasn't been resolved.
I agree, even if most of this stuff is kinda out of whack it should at least start somewhat.. maybe ugly but should at least somewhat.
I adjusted the tps (cold) and this is what it looks like. Does it looked turned in a lot?
Anybody have a know good working ecu they would sell? Or lend? I have zero knowledge about ecu tuning etc. if I’m replacing ecu should I get something different?
I deflooded the car and left it overnight, I’m going to decline again emmediatly to see if gas got into chambers at all
12-27-23, 10:47 AM
